Engine removal question

[Kaiser2boy]

Well its time to bite the bullit and yank the engine and send it out.
Can it be lifted out without removing the front end?
I will be using the type of engine lift that sits on the floor with a hand pumped boom and chain.

One book I read said to remove engine you need to remove the entire front end. Please tell me that aint so.

[Charles Talbert]

Well its time to bite the bullit and yank the engine and send it out.
Can it be lifted out without removing the front end?
I will be using the type of engine lift that sits on the floor with a hand pumped boom and chain.

One book I read said to remove engine you need to remove the entire front end. Please tell me that aint so.

You can do it by just pulling the grill and radiator, but I promise you will hate yourself in the morning if you choose that route.

The easiest way is to raise the hood back against the windshield, remove both front fender assemblies, then the radiator, radiator frame, and the trans cover and filler panel above it inside the cab. It takes under an hour to remove all this, then you can easily access everything necessary to pull the engine and trans as an assembly. The hour spent to get this stuff out of your way will actually earn you time. It will take you much longer to do the job with the fenders in place. The only tight spot during the lift is the cab floor area near the acclerator pedal. You may think it will not clear, but it will, just be careful and work it on out. Remove 3 bolts that attach the e-brake/transfer lever assy to the transmission, just pull the assy toward the passenger side an tie it off, no need to disassemble the lever assy.

[Kaiser2boy]

Thanks.
Boy I wish a were 20 years younger.

[Gsmith]

Unless all the bolts put up a fight I think you'll find it's not really that hard to do what Charles described.

[Kaiser2boy]

I got started this afternoon and I was pleased at how well it came off. Actually I just did the right side to see how it would be.
All the wires are neatly marked and with a little WD40 all the bolts came out with little or no problems.

Maybe on Monday I will do the driverside then sit and drink an IPA or two.
I squirted the bolts with wd40 so by Monday they should jump out on comand.

[Kaiser2boy]

OK. The engine is unbolted and all wires and lines removed , front end removed, levers and clutch lever undone.
Two questions.
#1

The flange that conects to the trans/transfer case propeler shaft, the one on the trans side (front) has 4 nuts and bolts. The nuts came off ok. I cant get the bolts out of the flange. There is no room to get a socket on them because they are too close to the hub and an open end wrench just slips off. They are very tight.
Are they threaded into the flange or just stuck?

#2
If I cant get them out , will that spline just slide off or will it mung up any seals inside the splined shaft?

If it will just slide off I can remove the trans and ship this thing south.

[Charles Talbert]

OK. The engine is unbolted and all wires and lines removed , front end removed, levers and clutch lever undone.
Two questions.
#1

The flange that conects to the trans/transfer case propeler shaft, the one on the trans side (front) has 4 nuts and bolts. The nuts came off ok. I cant get the bolts out of the flange. There is no room to get a socket on them because they are too close to the hub and an open end wrench just slips off. They are very tight.
Are they threaded into the flange or just stuck?

#2
If I cant get them out , will that spline just slide off or will it mung up any seals inside the splined shaft?

If it will just slide off I can remove the trans and ship this thing south.

The flange bolts are special, the bolt shanks are splined and pressed in like a wheel stud. Just tap them out.

No danger of seal damage pulling the shaft apart, just slide it out. The seal is only a piece of cork or felt, 2 different seal types were used.

[Kaiser2boy]

Great, I was hoping that was my answer. Now to build an ARK to ship the motor.

Thanks.

[Gordon Maney]

You can do it by just pulling the grill and radiator, but I promise you will hate yourself in the morning if you choose that route.

The easiest way is to raise the hood back against the windshield, remove both front fender assemblies, then the radiator, radiator frame, and the trans cover and filler panel above it inside the cab. It takes under an hour to remove all this, then you can easily access everything necessary to pull the engine and trans as an assembly. The hour spent to get this stuff out of your way will actually earn you time. It will take you much longer to do the job with the fenders in place. The only tight spot during the lift is the cab floor area near the acclerator pedal. You may think it will not clear, but it will, just be careful and work it on out. Remove 3 bolts that attach the e-brake/transfer lever assy to the transmission, just pull the assy toward the passenger side an tie it off, no need to disassemble the lever assy.

A great line....