struggling to resurect an m37

[gusbratz]

Its alive

parts came and I put them on yesterday in the snow. Here is a pic of my plowing this morning for the 3rd time. truck is running great and pushing hard. It is little loose on the big hill past my drive way so I think I'm going to put chains on the stock tires and put them back on when it gets Icy. I dorve it 3 miles down the road to a freinds house to show it off. It was like roading a tractor. good for plowing and stuff but when you get over 35 MPH it is squrilly and has no power. I don't think I'll do that again.

[Gordon Maney]

I don't want that snow to come here....

[Kaiser2boy]

Squirrelly, that about sums it up for handeling.
I had mine up to close to 50 once and it was pretty interesting even on a straight away. Switch back turns are hair raising events at anything over 25.
I joke and say "this thing is better suited for strictly agricultural work". But its fun. Anyone can drive a normal PU truck, it takes a loonie to drive one of these things.

[Gordon Maney]

M37's don't have to handle that way. I would wonder about loose steering parts, wheel balance, and perhaps caster.

Several I have had would easily do 45-50 in a nice, predictable, straight line.

[OLD DODGE]

parts came and I put them on yesterday in the snow.

So what did you do or replace to fix it?

[gusbratz]

I eliminated the capacitor in the supply power wire and replaced the coil. I just didn't have a strong enough spark to get any power out of the engine.

I am sure between the home made reverese geared power steering and the homemade rims and the plow on the front that is why it doesent handle good. It doenst relly wander it is more of a feeling that at a higher speed things could get out of control very quickly and you relly have to be on your toes and pay attention to what you are doing.

[Gsmith]

M37's don't have to handle that way. I would wonder about loose steering parts, wheel balance, and perhaps caster.

Several I have had would easily do 45-50 in a nice, predictable, straight line.

Mine handles fine, I've had it up to 55. It sounds better at 45 of course.

[Kaiser2boy]

I should ad a disclaimer to my statment. When I got the truck I could see that a new tie rod assembly had been put on but not adjusted yery well because the wheels were sort of wall-eyed, out in front narrow in the back.
I made a gauge out of two sections of EMT and set the front about 3/16 ths closer than the rear. It made steering much better but it is not as good as it should be. Prior to that it was VERY hard to steer. There is very little free play in the system so I figure its tight.

55 MPH? was that down hill with a tail wind , snicker.

My wife got a new car and it feels like you are driving at 40 mph when you are actually going 65.
The M37 feels like you are going 65 when you are going 45.

[Gordon Maney]

I should ad a disclaimer to my statment. When I got the truck I could see that a new tie rod assembly had been put on but not adjusted yery well because the wheels were sort of wall-eyed, out in front narrow in the back.
I made a gauge out of two sections of EMT and set the front about 3/16 ths closer than the rear. It made steering much better but it is not as good as it should be. Prior to that it was VERY hard to steer. There is very little free play in the system so I figure its tight.

55 MPH? was that down hill with a tail wind , snicker.

My wife got a new car and it feels like you are driving at 40 mph when you are actually going 65.
The M37 feels like you are going 65 when you are going 45.

It is not clear to me, but it sounds like you worked off the sidewall. If you did, I would discourage you because of runout in the wheel/tire assembly.

Raise a wheel off the ground and scribe a line approximately at the center of the tread width. Use a concrete block or similar item to steady your scribe/pointer. Have someone turn the wheel while you hold the scribe still. Do that on each wheel. This scribed line will give you a true line fro which to measure from, establishing the relative positional relationships of the two wheels.

Use your home made tool to measure between the scribed lines at front and rear of the tires. Do the math and you will have the toe-in.

Early toe-in measuring devices were exactly that method. It was just a manufactured bar that made it very convenient.

[Kaiser2boy]

Not to sound like Henny Youngman but ,funny you should mention that.
I was concerned about run out and I did just about what you said. I was surprised that there was not a lot of run out in either direction, front to back or side to side.

While I have you here , and not trying to Hijack the post but I read that you should not remove the drums without marking its rotational spot on the hub. The hand book says do this to prevent "PEELING OFF THE HUB BOLTS" ?
I did not know about this until after removing my drums for inspection. I looked and can see no such marks to indicate that anyone has ever done it. How important is that statment?

[Gordon Maney]

Not to sound like Henny Youngman but ,funny you should mention that.
I was concerned about run out and I did just about what you said. I was surprised that there was not a lot of run out in either direction, front to back or side to side.

While I have you here , and not trying to Hijack the post, but I read that you should not remove the drums without marking its rotational spot on the hub. The hand book says do this to prevent "PEELING OFF THE HUB BOLTS" ?

I did not know about this until after removing my drums for inspection. I looked and can see no such marks to indicate that anyone has ever done it. How important is that statement?

It is not the drums on the hub, as they are indexed by the three flat-head screws. It is the drive flange or rear axle shaft flange to the hub.

Realistically, nobody does that. If you care enough to consider it, then do it. Years ago I did that, and I realize now, I don't really think about it.

It is a best form kind of habit.

[Kaiser2boy]

OK , thanks.

[gusbratz]

it keeps snowing, will it ever stop? we have well over 2' on the ground and they are calling for some kind of a storm this weekend. i'm continueing to work the bugs out of the m37. tonight the bald 9.00x16 NDT are going back on with a set of chains since the home made duels didn't hold air for long. Here is a puzler... the windows keep fogging and frosting up. tried fog x but it seemed to make it worse. there is a little heater in the cab but it doesnet seem to help. I keep the windows down but the windshield keeps fogging up. hard to stay out of the ditch when you cant see. any ideas?

[Charles Talbert]

it keeps snowing, will it ever stop? we have well over 2' on the ground and they are calling for some kind of a storm this weekend. i'm continueing to work the bugs out of the m37. tonight the bald 9.00x16 NDT are going back on with a set of chains since the home made duels didn't hold air for long. Here is a puzler... the windows keep fogging and frosting up. tried fog x but it seemed to make it worse. there is a little heater in the cab but it doesnet seem to help. I keep the windows down but the windshield keeps fogging up. hard to stay out of the ditch when you cant see. any ideas?

The window fogging issue is common unless you have a heater that picks up outside air rather than simply recirculating air that is already in the cab. A defroster will help by having a forced air flow directly on the glass, but still won't be great unless you are drawing outside air.

[Kaiser2boy]

Make sure your Micky Mouse heater is not seeping anti-freeze. That can cause never ending condensation .
Try to stay as dry as you can before getting in.
I never tried it but I heard rain-X can help if you spray it on the inside.
As a last resort try holding your breath .

I live in North Central Pa. and we get our share of snow and cold, tonight it is reported to hit 14 degrees.
So far I have not had steamed up windows.
In my case that may be due to the draft situation. If I want to light my pipe I have to stop so there is not so much wind in the cab.