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High-low/4wd detent .

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  • High-low/4wd detent .

    Is it pssible to R&R the RANGE and 4WD detents with the transfer box in the truck? Also will it require any special tools?
    I see where the detents should be but I can not tell what holds them in. I can reach up there but I cant feel any thing that feels like a nut or cap. It just feels like a flat spot on the case.

    Reason , I noticed the lever for 4WD popped out a few times going over some rough terrain. I also noticed that it seems to slide in and out with no discernable click.

  • #2
    Check out the "Transfer case slips out of gear" thread in the Service and Repair section.

    Frank

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    • #3
      Very simple job, however

      Alan, It's easy to replace the ball and spring assy with the case installed on the truck. You said there is no decernable click so that opens up 1 other possibility. Is the shift lever linkage rod adjusted so that the travel is sufficient to fully engage before the lever runs out of travel? For instance if the lever hits the floor pan before the shaft engages the ball; it will jump out of gear and you will never feel the click when shifting.

      The main thing is to clean the area well around the plug before removal so no debris falls into the hole when the plug and assy is removed. Scrap any debris that is stuck and blow the area clean with compressed air. A 3/4" wrench or short socket (preferably a 6-point)fits the hex plug, once removed the spring will protrude slightly, just grasp it and pull straight up. Only the ball remains, it can be retrieved by a small diameter magnet with a short handle readily. We have a magnet with a bendable shank that works everytime, just insert into the bore and remove the ball. Clean and inspect the spring, if it appears strong when compressed and has no rust or corrrosion going on to weaken it, most likely it is fine. We always replace the ball regardless, they will get a flat spot from years of use. You have given us work in the past, I'm happy to send you a new ball at no charge, just let me know. Be extremely careful when reinstalling the plug; they are made of soft steel that is thin, making it easy to twist the head right off if you over torque it. Apply high temp thread sealer onto the threads and it will not leak. Also clean the plug well once removed and check it for cracking.

      Now to move on to the more likely issue. The ball is bearing steel; not nearly as prone to wear as the shaft groove it engages. I have had replacing the ball to fix this issue more than once, so it is worth a try. Never the less there is reality; and it is more likely a worn shaft groove not letting the ball properly do its job or other issue going on in the case that is literally forcing it out of gear engagement. We always replace the shift shafts with our custom machined stainless steel shafts. This addresses 2 common shaft problems, the worn detent groove issue, and the rust pit issue on the seal mating area the most common cause of oil leaks around shift shaft seals. Installing stainless shafts solves the rust pit issue forever. The most common cause of jumping out of gear is wear on the input shaft splines and sliding gear splines on the hi-lo side or output shaft splines and sliding gear splines on the front axle engagement side.

      Simple truth; if replacing the ball (and spring if it's bad) does not fix the issue; just resign to the fact that the next step should be a total tear down, clean up, and repair / replace as needed to bring everything back to 100%. It is possible to address the other issues that could be at fault without a total tear down, BUT you will be so close by the time you get there, it isn't smart not to look at everything. If you don't, you could be guaranteeing a return trip back into the case before you get to the root cause. The t/case is also a hot spot for oil leaks, it is smart to address all this in the correct way to assure a proper functioning, leak free, case. This is one of the most bullet proof cases one can have; after a proper rebuild, and with proper care / maintenance; it's good to go for many thousands of miles.

      Comment


      • #4
        OK thank you. We look like we might get a break in the weather here. It may get above freezing for a few days so it wont be so miserable in the garage. Even working with the propane salamander heater it is no fun when it is below zero, the stinking tools hurt to hold them.
        I will start with the eazy item first and see how it goes.

        Thanks again.

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        • #5
          Got at it today. It turned out to be just an out of adjustment linkage.
          It was one of those good thing I checked it situations.
          At some time some one had the linkage off and when they replaced it they left off the washer on the end of the push rod next to the cotter pin. When I took hold of the cotter pin it was so worn away it just fell on the floor in two sections.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View Post
            Got at it today. It turned out to be just an out of adjustment linkage.
            It was one of those good thing I checked it situations.
            At some time some one had the linkage off and when they replaced it they left off the washer on the end of the push rod next to the cotter pin. When I took hold of the cotter pin it was so worn away it just fell on the floor in two sections.
            Good deal! Most of the time, checking first things first pays off.

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