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Originally posted by gusbratz
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I'll just say this, I've told how to hook it up, what I told you is what makes it tick. If both the gauge and sending unit is functioning correctly and wiring is good; you should get a reading. If you don't have a good common ground at the gauge case and the sending unit, you will not get an accurate reading or no reading at all. Now it's up to you to follow instructions and make it happen; or otherwise as you wish. -
Correct about the guages. I think they are treated with radium.
Not to drag on about the gas tank seeing as how he allready brazed it up but has anyone tried any of the space age adhesives like epoxy sealent? No chance of fire there and you dont need to send the tank out .
I know its not the mannly thing to do but I have seen it done and it seems to work just fine for a very long time.
It will not burn off any coating on or in the tank so it helps prevent rust if applied right.Comment
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there were some holes rusted in the bottom edge of my 3 wheeler tank (yes i know you think they are unsafe and they have been outlawed la la la so everybody just pack sand cause im not ditchen my trikes) but i used some quick steel you just knead together then stick on. i sanded it first and then cleaned it with electrical cleaner and it has worked great for about 2 years now.Comment
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gas tank sealers
I'm running a tank out of a military generator tank, it's identical to the stock m37 tank. Since it's a steel tank, I thought some kind of sealer couldn't hurt I bought a kit called cream? might've beem Kream, came with a wash, some etching solution and the sealer. I followed the instructions and two years later my fuel filter began to fill with something resembling white paint flakes. So I pull the tank, have it cleaned out by a radiator shop and try the P O R 15 gas tank sealer It lasted a year and a half. I'm debating either a properly sized plastic fuel cell or sending it out to a company called Renu. I'm thinking these sealers don't like the ethanol in modern fuel.Comment
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Plastic seems like the way to go with one exception. I always thought it would be better since it wouldn't rust out. then I was talking to a volunteer fireman the other day and he told me a story about a car fire he responded to on the edge of Chautauqua lake. the wind was pretty fast off the lake as usual. he said everybody was ok and they were standing down wind of the car and he had them all come to the other side of the road due to traffic being kind of dangerous. then the plastic fuel tank melted through. the full tank of fuel just dumped and the wind blew it and the flames like 60' down wind of the car. he said if they hadn't moved they would all be hurt relly bad. made me think a little. i am surprised with everybody being so safety concies these days that the gov. allows plastic fuel tanks to be made. anyway I hear an s-10 tank is a close fit.Comment
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I had my tank done at Renu over three years ago and so far so good. It's expensive, but I think a one time deal.Comment
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GasTankReNu is the best thing going. It is expensive like everything else with quality behind it these days. You can expect a tank from an M37 to run up near the $700 range. It is a job that can be done once and for all, not something you will have to address again next year or in 50 years. Do it once, do it right, enjoy.
The gasoline of today is changing so fast we don't know what it may eat alive tomorrow. The folks at ReNu are on top of their game with this. We have used the radiator shop repairs along with interior sealers in time past also. We have gotten away from these methods completely as all that sealer may be in your fuel pump, filters, and carb bowl in a day or 2.Comment
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i'm gona stick with a plain jane steel tank and try to keep it topped up to keep condensation out of it and the occasional bottle of drygas.come to think of it HEET is just alchol and it absorbs water. i wonder if maybe the ethelnol on the new gas will keep it dryer. maybe a silver lineing.Comment
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Keeping it topped off isn't a bad thing unless you let the gas sit in it and go stale. If the truck doesn't run often enough to burn a tank of fuel within a couple of weeks, you are better off running it dry before storage. Today's gas starts to separate in as little time as 2 weeks. Once the process starts, it is no turning back. This will cause all sorts of BAD issues in the fuel system components and with the intake valves. We have dealt with some extreme issues caused by someone trying to burn out just 1 tank full of stale fuel. The last one we dealt with cost about $5,000 worth of parts and labor to straighten it all out. It's like this; topping off to store until next season is a disaster in the making.Originally posted by gusbratz View PostComment
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What do you mean by separate?Originally posted by Charles Talbert View PostPower Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?Comment
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[QUOTE=Gordon Maney;87651]What do you mean by separate?[/QUOTE
The petroleum guys refer to the beginning of the gasoline deterioration process as separation. It is the start of the going stale process that results in the blended fuel simply falling apart. It progresses from that stage and finally into a total break down. The end result is pretty terrible stuff if it sits in the system long. It will literally destroy carb and fuel pump castings. A tar like goo also collects on the bottom side of the intake valve heads and will severely stick the valves in their guides if you run the engine. A good case of this will cost $$$$ to correct.Comment
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what about using sat-bil ? would that help?Comment
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[QUOTE=eddiem;87657]what about using sat-bil ? would that help?[/QUOTE
Sta-Bil will help slightly in a short term. We have had customers try that and still get into trouble. They expected the Sta-Bil to protect them from issues in a seasonable storage situation, (3 Months). Answer: it is certainly no long term storage solution. I run a service call all the way to South Carolina for a customer several times who had his truck stored in a storage facility. Same thing every trip. He filled the tank and added Sta-Bil; every time lines were clogged, fuel in tank smelled 100 years old, BAD residue in tank, lines, filters, carb bowl, etc, obviously we knew where we were headed each time. All he would say is yes but I put the stuff in in the gas. I just wanted to say yes but when will you get the message?Comment
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Ethanol Phase Separation
The last m37 I brought home had about 7 gallons of liquid in the fuel tank. I dispensed it all into glass containors and was amazed to see two distinctly different appearing liquids. About 30% was clear like water or vodka and was on the bottom. The balance was orange, kind of like dark colored gasoline and was on the top. The truck would run on the clear stuff but not start. The clear liqiud burned slowly with a blue flame and not too smokey. The orange stuff burned like gasoline.
This separation of the fuel is apparently called "Phase Separation" and it is the result of the ethanol fuel reaching a water content of about .05%.
Boy do I hate Ethanol Fuel!Comment
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I've only recently used Stabil so I can't speak for lasting, but gas mixed for 2 cycle service seems to last for a good while, I've got some that's around 2 years old and is still good. Doesn't smell bad, no visible separation or anything. Anyone else had this experience?Comment
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