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  • Brake Grease!?

    Yo Team;
    Reading through Gordon"s publication on brakes,axles and differentials...AFTER I had put long hours in revamping the brakes lines and cylinders, I noticed his direction to lubricate the felt washers and metal contact points with high temp lubricant.

    Yes I have read this publication a number of times before, but there must be a subliminal message in the paragraphs that follow this point that fogs my mind. Or the fumes of brake cleaner.

    BUT HEY! I did check out the new wheel cylinders and one of 8 was marked wrong on the basis of the large cylinder to the rear.

    Lubricant such as anti-seize type to the felt washers? Do I soak them or gently coat with lubricant?

    This kinda rubs me after the effort to REMOVE all traces of grease,etc, from the brake workings under the watchful eye(glare) of a supervisory personage of considerably older generation than myself.

    He figured I should replace the washer with a TEFLON type.

    What say you.
    Regards, Jay

  • #2
    Yes, you very lightly apply a coat of grease (anti-seize works great too) on any place that has moving parts (except the actual braking surfaces) to minimize friction and ensure proper brake function. This applies to any braking system from discs to drums. Caliper sliding bolts need grease. Brake shoes need a bit of grease between them and the backing plate. And on and on.......

    This is a case where a dollap will go a mile. Very very light, just enough to slick the surface.

    Comment


    • #3
      I am straining to remember. Isn't there a sheet metal, formed washer that accompanies that felt? Given hoped-for compressibility of the felt, it may be that one purpose of that felt assembly was a bit of anti-rattle function. You would not achieve that with a washer made from some engineering plastic.
      Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


      Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by MoparFreak69 View Post
        Yes, you very lightly apply a coat of grease (anti-seize works great too) on any place that has moving parts (except the actual braking surfaces) to minimize friction and ensure proper brake function. This applies to any braking system from discs to drums. Caliper sliding bolts need grease. Brake shoes need a bit of grease between them and the backing plate. And on and on.......

        This is a case where a dollap will go a mile. Very very light, just enough to slick the surface.
        Yes.
        Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


        Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Team.

          Despite my years of breaking things down and rebuilding, there at times a rattled confidence when a sage of experience questions my actions or worse yet puts a bug in the thought track about innovating something supposedly better.

          The wonderfully simple effective and proven substance of these old trucks unfortunately glares back in mute testimony when someone oversees what one is doing and scoffs to the contrary. If these machines could talk...the ones I own would be barking at me in drill instructor dialogue to pay attention to the obvious.

          BTW the anti-seize lubricant applied in lightly to the washers and the articulating surfaces went well, and the brakes are getting back together.
          Just wait, one more truck to go. Ordered the correct wheel cylinder to even up on the next truck. Better get it done while the neuronal pathways are still firing in the memory department.

          Back to basics,
          Jay

          Comment


          • #6
            Aint it funny how even a tiny bit of grease on a brake shoe will cause it to grab and pull one way or the other.
            You would think that grease on a brake linning would make it slip not grab.
            Even after much washing with all sorts of cleaners some grease will seep to the surface again and casue grabing and pulling. Be very careful with any lubrication in that area a tiny bit dripped or flung in the wrong spot will cause your truck to behave like an ill natured Camel upon stopping.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the reminder. The reason for the rebuild originally due to brake grab not responding to adjustments in the one wheel and found a leaking wheel cylinder.
              I made certain nothing more than a barely perceptible lining of anti-seize on the washers and the anchor pin articulating surfaces. I figure if I did it all equally then if grabbing starts,it will be even-up at all 4 wheels.
              Maybe I will need to wear a mouth guard for the sudden stops,heh? LOL.
              Oh great, now I need to worry about seat belts to install.
              I think I will wait to see if gas line and carb rebuild will actually get the truck running and keep it running.
              If it ain't one thing, it's anuther.
              Doncha just luv these trucks?
              Regards, Jay

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jay Turnbull View Post
                Thanks for the reminder. The reason for the rebuild originally due to brake grab not responding to adjustments in the one wheel and found a leaking wheel cylinder.
                I made certain nothing more than a barely perceptible lining of anti-seize on the washers and the anchor pin articulating surfaces. I figure if I did it all equally then if grabbing starts,it will be even-up at all 4 wheels.
                Maybe I will need to wear a mouth guard for the sudden stops,heh? LOL.
                Oh great, now I need to worry about seat belts to install.
                I think I will wait to see if gas line and carb rebuild will actually get the truck running and keep it running.
                If it ain't one thing, it's anuther.
                Doncha just luv these trucks?
                Regards, Jay
                I know there will those that will throw up if they read this but, I installed a set of seat belts in mine. Up here in the wilds of Northern Pa. there are a lot of bumpy dirt roads that get you bouncing around pretty good. I looked and looked for seat belts that would work and not cost an arm and a leg. I found just such a set at JC Whitney. They are tan in color and bolt on with no problems. They do have chrome buckles that clash with the truck but they cost about $15.00. I figure if the chrome really bothers me I can paint them OD.

                Comment


                • #9
                  seat belts

                  nothing wrong with seat belts, if anyone is interested there is a company offering them in any color you want including olive drab, also they will engrave whatever you like on the buckles. The type I like is a retracting lap belt, less clutter on the seat that way. Check them out at www.autoloc.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler View Post
                    nothing wrong with seat belts, if anyone is interested there is a company offering them in any color you want including olive drab, also they will engrave whatever you like on the buckles. The type I like is a retracting lap belt, less clutter on the seat that way. Check them out at www.autoloc.com
                    Hmm not bad and the two point style are only $19.00
                    The style I got from JCW are the AIRPLANE style that do not require having to look for the button to release, just flip the latch and you are out. They are more like the seat belts in the 60s cars. Still the one at this site are just fine and inexpensive to boot.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      felt washers?

                      just removed right rear brake pad assembly. Hmmmm...I didn't notice any felt washers...where are they supposed to be please??

                      does vintage power wagon carry them?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The felt washers are only there to reduce rattleing.
                        With the amount of engine noise and trans noise and tire noise I doubt that you could notice any difference with or without the washer.
                        Not to beat a dead horse but when I was in the service I drove an M37 with an ANGRC-19 radio. It was a monster radio/transmiter. We were allways told to be so quiet so the bad guys would not hear us. Then we would turn on the radio and the blowers that kept the output tubes cool sounded like a Hoover Vacuum cleaner.
                        Wispering seemed sort of a waste of time. Sort of like the washer.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The army called those washers "Oil Washers" not anti-rattle washers for a reason, they help lube the anchor bolts which are supposed to have a film of lube coating them before the shoes are installed to help them resist rust and allow for shoe movement on the anchor bolt. The yellow painted washers in this picture are called "Oil Washer Retainers"



                          Items 3 is the retainer, 4 is the felt washer in this drawing.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            OOPs, well smack my face . Its funny but when I had mine all apart those washers had been replaced by some one in the last 55 years with stamped out wave washers. I guess Thats why I figured they were anti rattle washers. The studs were not rusted at all and turned ok. They looked like they had never-seize on them so thats how I put them back. Live and learn .

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It's sometimes hard to tell what is original and what has been changed by owners after the trucks left military service.

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