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  • Hot starting problem?

    Has anyone run into problems with starting a hot engine.
    My engine starts on the first revolution when cold. Even at below zero temps.
    The problem I am haveing is when it is a hot day (85to 90 degrees). If I drive 10 or 15 miles and then shut it off and let it sit any more that 5 minutes it is real cranky upon starting. It never fails to start but I have to crank for what seems a long time. Once it starts it run pretty ragged for about 30 seconds and blows blue smoke for a few seconds.
    I have tried not giving any gas and I tried cranking it with it wide open and also at half throtle. The wide open test was the worst.
    The fuel lines are all thermally protected from the pump to the carb. The engine is all original with the carter BB carburetor and proper oil filled air cleaner with the proper oil in it. I have checked that the choke is not sticking .When it does start there is no black smoke as if it was flooded but there is a whiff of blue for a few seconds.
    Any ideas or is this just the nature of the beast?

  • #2
    for what it is worth mine is exactally like you describe. i run it back and forth with a lot of starts and stops loading fire wood and stumps or whatever and once it is warm there is a bit of cranking to get it going again.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View Post
      Has anyone run into problems with starting a hot engine.
      My engine starts on the first revolution when cold. Even at below zero temps.
      The problem I am haveing is when it is a hot day (85to 90 degrees). If I drive 10 or 15 miles and then shut it off and let it sit any more that 5 minutes it is real cranky upon starting. It never fails to start but I have to crank for what seems a long time. Once it starts it run pretty ragged for about 30 seconds and blows blue smoke for a few seconds.
      I have tried not giving any gas and I tried cranking it with it wide open and also at half throtle. The wide open test was the worst.
      The fuel lines are all thermally protected from the pump to the carb. The engine is all original with the carter BB carburetor and proper oil filled air cleaner with the proper oil in it. I have checked that the choke is not sticking .When it does start there is no black smoke as if it was flooded but there is a whiff of blue for a few seconds.
      Any ideas or is this just the nature of the beast?
      When you say the wide open throttle was the worst, how was it the worst. Took the longest?

      You might take it for a drive, bring it home and let it sit the amount of time you feel it would take for this to occur, and then try starting it.

      But, don't crank it long enough for it to start. Then remove a couple of the plugs and see what they look like. I am wondering if they are wet.
      Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


      Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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      • #4
        starting problem

        I had this problem, make sure your carb is in good shape, rebuild kit if it needs it and set it up using a vacuum gauge, absolute best way to dial in a carb. I also rebuilt my distributor and replaced the points with a solid state ign. conversion. The truck now starts easily and seems to have gained some power, apparently you lose a lot of spark between the points and condensor, the conversion makes a much hotter spark, less likely to foul out.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Gordon Maney View Post
          When you say the wide open throttle was the worst, how was it the worst. Took the longest?

          You might take it for a drive, bring it home and let it sit the amount of time you feel it would take for this to occur, and then try starting it.

          But, don't crank it long enough for it to start. Then remove a couple of the plugs and see what they look like. I am wondering if they are wet.
          With the throtle held wide open it took much longer to start. I tried that methode just in case it may be flooding.
          I will try the drive around and go home idea.
          What really worried me was that the last time I was out it started acting snotty as I was at speed (40 MPH) .
          I felt it start stumbling and doing the duh duh duh thing for about ten seconds and I opened the clutch and raced the engine a few times and it cleared out. Still it is a sinking feeling when you are out on the road and all of a sudden it starts getting fussy.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Gordon Maney View Post
            When you say the wide open throttle was the worst, how was it the worst. Took the longest?

            You might take it for a drive, bring it home and let it sit the amount of time you feel it would take for this to occur, and then try starting it.

            But, don't crank it long enough for it to start. Then remove a couple of the plugs and see what they look like. I am wondering if they are wet.
            OK yesterday was a 90+ day , I drove around for about an hour came home shut it off, waited 20 minutes tried to start it. I cranked it about 15 seconds and stopped.
            As quick as I could I pulled a plug.
            The plug was dry. Actually it looked good. There was some black soot on the body but the center electrode and porciline and the ground electrode were as clean as the day they were installed. I am thinking vapor lock.
            To add more mystery to it I have found that if I stop to buy gas after a good run on a hot day and I dont turn it off and I take about 3 or 4 minutes to get the gas when I drive away withing 1/4 mile it will start to stutter and sound like it may stall out for a few seconds but then it will recover and be just fine for the rest of the day. It has done that trick 3 times only on hot days. All winter long not a blink of problems.

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            • #7
              maybe your fuel line is routed too close to the exaust.also the new fuel with more ethonol is more volitile than the old stuff and flashes to vapor more easeily. I have talked to a few people that have seen it pressureizeing the tanks in our old case tractors from the heat out in the field. the vents in the caps are not plugged, they are just not big enough to keep up. sucks to know all your fuel is evaporating. I guess add that onto the ethenol sucks list. may be part of the problem.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gusbratz View Post
                maybe your fuel line is routed too close to the exaust.also the new fuel with more ethonol is more volitile than the old stuff and flashes to vapor more easeily. I have talked to a few people that have seen it pressureizeing the tanks in our old case tractors from the heat out in the field. the vents in the caps are not plugged, they are just not big enough to keep up. sucks to know all your fuel is evaporating. I guess add that onto the ethenol sucks list. may be part of the problem.
                The fuel lines are installed as far from any heat source as posible and are thermally protected from the exit of the pump right up to the carb. I even removed the splash guard that runs under that side of the engine to allow more air to flow around that area.
                The problemis not something I cant live with. As I said it will start and run just fine once started and over the stumbling. It just acts snotty in hot weather. If that is the nature of the beast so be it. My worry was that it is not normal and that I may get stuck out half way between nothing and nowhere with some goofy fuel problem.

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                • #9
                  Just a thought and something to check.
                  Make sure the carb. heat valve below the carb. on the exhaust manifold is in the summer position.
                  More than likely it will be in the winter or some ware in between.
                  If you cannot rotate it you will have to remove and separate the manifolds for inspection and repair.
                  This valve causes a lot of problems when improperly set for the current conditions.

                  Yes you are having vapor lock issues.
                  TGP
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tom Petroff View Post
                    Just a thought and something to check.
                    Make sure the carb. heat valve below the carb. on the exhaust manifold is in the summer position.
                    More than likely it will be in the winter or some ware in between.
                    If you cannot rotate it you will have to remove and separate the manifolds for inspection and repair.
                    This valve causes a lot of problems when improperly set for the current conditions.

                    Yes you are having vapor lock issues.
                    TGP
                    I checked the heat riser and it is frozen solid in just about the midway point. I guess I am cooking the carb a bit on real hot days.
                    Now I have to decide if it is worth the grief of pulling the manifold off and hoping I can get the valve to work and if it will make that much difference. Thats a lot of work for a doubtful out come. I am thinking that if thats the problem I CAN live with it. As I stated in a prior post , it will start and after a bit of sputtering it will run just fine. Maybe I can install a small cooling fan on the inner fender well to blow on it ,,,just kidding..
                    Thanks for the replys, it sounds like that is the problem and it is not some problem with the carb other than getting a bit too hot.

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