Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler
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My M37 Restoration Thread
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Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler View PostIt might not be a bad idea to replace those loose rivets, just in case. I usually use grade 8 or if I can find them Lawson bolts on chassis or suspension. Lawson bolts are grade 12 or better
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Originally posted by JStinson View PostI don't believe I'll be needing it. Appreciate you remembering me though.
General question: the layers of paint on this truck tell some story. The the earliest coat I can find seems to be blue, and a yellow on top of that. Ideas anyone?
No tags on the glove box?
I figure if it was an Air force truck it did not see any real hard use. An Army turck may have seen more hard use.
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Extra steel plate on bumper.
Have you ever watched TV ads for new cars braging about the car having a 5 star crash rating?
The M37 has about a 20 star crash rating , maybe some prior owner wanted a 30 star rating. Ha Ha Ha, just kidding. Mybe it was some sort of adapter for a snow plow.
I know what you mean about strange holes here and there. Mine had a few but the one that really tweaked me was the nice neat 1 1/2 inch hole drilled right down through the passenger side floor about 4 inches away from the trany hump and about 5 inches from the battery box wall. I was wondering if it was a "MOTORMANS HELPER"...
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Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View PostMaybe Air Force then some sort of Fire service or Forestry service.
No tags on the glove box?
I figure if it was an Air force truck it did not see any real hard use. An Army turck may have seen more hard use.
The front axle has some red on it, but the leaf spring doesn't. I found some white on another part of the frame.
I think the truck might be some sort of frankenstein monster...
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The red on the axle was likely the primer.I drive a DODGE, not a ram!
Thanks,
Will
WAWII.com
1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"
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Originally posted by JStinson View PostI was steam cleaning and stripping the frame today and I think I found out the order of the layers. On the front right leaf spring pack, you can see that the original layer is OD, then the blue and then yellow.
The front axle has some red on it, but the leaf spring doesn't. I found some white on another part of the frame.
I think the truck might be some sort of frankenstein monster...
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Soft vs Steel Fuel Line
When I did the original "restoration" on this truck, I replaced the hilarious conglomeration of water hoses and copper lining with nylon fuel line all the way from the tank to to about two feet from the carb. I ran it through the frame so it was protected. Worked like a charm.
Here's the question of the day: Should I go this same route and use nylon fuel line again, or should I invest in some steel line? What are the advantages of one over the other?
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Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View PostNylon wont rust. However it may become brittle in time.
I dont know what was on my truck when I first got it but it looked ok until I tried to move the electric fuel pump and the line just cracked like it was made of glass.
Think 3/8" line is ok?
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Originally posted by JStinson View PostI think I've settled on buying some generic aluminum fuel line and learning how to bend and flare. It'll be an adventure learning how to build fuel line.
Think 3/8" line is ok?Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?
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I dont know where you live but if you any place where they salt the roads aluminum may not be a good idea.
Bending and flaring is not real hard if you have a flare tool. Bending , same thing. I have seen sand packed into a line prior to bending to keep it from closing up inside.
I made up a line and was being sooo careful with the bend and flares that I forgot to instal the cap nut on the line first . A few cuss words were spoken then.
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