Has anyone use a rust preventative I am looking for opinions.
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POR rust prevention
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Originally posted by Jack605 View PostHas anyone use a rust preventative I am looking for opinions.
I, however, have never experienced any negative aspects of it. It has worked very well for me. I always follow the instructions and fully prep the metal first, or leave it with a layer of surface rust. I have a snowplow that I painted with it back in 1988. It gets used each year, sometimes pushing as much gravel as snow, and sits outside all year. I topcoated the POR with rustoleum satin black. A lot of the rustoleum has worn off and some of the POR has worn off on the cutting edge, but overall, the plow has held up very well. I have also used it on surface rusted sheetmetal with good results.
It seems very hard to scratch or chip. If you ever let a film of it dry in something like a butter tub, and peel the dried film off, you will see that it is like a very strong plastic. You can wad it up and it does not want to split, tear, stretch, or otherwise come apart. If you get it on your skin, you will see it is like a tatoo.
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I am not sure what POR is but I used stuff from the local hardwear store called EXTEND. It looks like milk when you put it on and it also is thin like water so it gets into tiny spots. After it cures it turns black and it almost plastic like. I did an experiment with a steel plate. I coated one half with EXTEND and left the other side with nothing. I let is sit outside for two years laying on the ground. The EXTEND side is still like the day I coated it and the other looks like it has been outside in the rain for two years.
The odd part is that it seems to work best on metal that has had some surface rust. I also learned not to get it on my skin. It does not hurt but it wont come off. You have to let it wear off. If you get it on cloth like my new Carhart jacket, it is a tatoo for ever.
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Originally posted by Jack605 View PostThanks for the reviews. So if I use POR I will not have to paint right after I can wait a month or two without any negative benefits.
Note, POR draws moisture from the air to cure. The higher the humidity is when you apply it, the faster it cures.
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I'm with Kaiser2boy..."Extend" works..
It's a Locktite product and has been around for a very long time. Your part has to be rusty to work, so a floorboard with lots of nooks and crannies that is solid but covered with rust is perfect. Scrape the big stuff off, wash it down to get any grease off, and lay on 2 coats of the stuff. After it is dry paint it however you want.
Warning: it is not for the outer body areas that show. It dries with sort of a texture and if you want a slick finish like the top of your hood, do not use it. Read the directions...!!!!
It is reasonable to buy, 8 oz bottle is $6 at the hardware.
My $.02
DrPepper
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I used to use POR but switched to Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator as it is UV stable and can be painted over anytime. I sandblasted my flat bed last winter and painted it with the stuff and its still looking good.1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
2005 Jeep KJ CRD
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p o r
I've used por15 with mixed results, the instructions used to claim that you paint it right over rust, now it comes with a booklet. The booklet instructs you to use por 15 degreaser and the rusty surface looks a little cleaner, next you are told to use por15 metal prep wire brush etc. At this point the photos show a pretty clean rust free piece of steel that you are to paint over. My neighbor used some on his 59 dodge and we both agree after the use this chemical, that chemical, scrub rinse etc it's probably easier and better to just sandblast or wire wheel and paint as normal. just my opinion.
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