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The brakelights stopped working on my m37, checked the brake light switch for power, it works, checked the connections at the taillight, nothing. under the hood passenger front fender, 75 which feeds the brakelight switch is hot, so i'm kind of stumped. anyone have any input, i'd really appreciate it. also the harness is around 17 years old, getting kind of stiff and brittle. any recommendations for a new one?
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Are you saying you had the brake pedal depressed and it was hot in and out of the switch? Vintage wiring of Maine definitely makes good harnesses. -
brakes
I had my dad hit the pedal, and I checked the switch with a test light seems to be working fine, just not going to the rear of the truck. I just got a ford GTB harness from vintage wiring, really nice quality but the thousand dollar price tag isn't in my budget. I've heard of a guy named Sid Beck who has some Greek? m37 harnesses. Does anyone know about these or how to get in touch with him? I couldn't find a website.Comment
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Sid Beck passed away last year so no more good stuff from him.Comment
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Sid Beck's parts
Before he died, Sid "retired" and sold a lot of his inventory to Brent Mullins. http://www.mullinsjeepparts.com
Brent has parts for many military vehicles besides J**p. I have had good service from him.Comment
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Does your truck have turn signals? If it does, the problem is very likely in the turn signal switch on the steering column as this is where the brake light switching function actually takes place, seen the problem with brake lights in that switch many times.Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler View PostComment
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turn signals
Yes, I added turn signals to the truck a few years agoComment
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If you have the military solid-state switch assy, they are notorious for causing the brake light issue. There is 2 sets of contacts that control the brake light operation in that switch, 1 set for the right side, another for the left. The reason is this; when brakes are being applied at the same time a left or right turn signal is being given, the brake light function on the side that is signaling a turn must be disabled, leaving the brake light functioning on the other side. The contacts get to where they don't hit correctly or corrosion keeps them from making good contact. Possibly you can disassemble the switch, cleaning and adjusting the contacts may correct the problem for a while. If you rear turn signals are working correctly and brake lights are the only issue; It is almost a 100% sure thing that what I've described above is your problem.Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler View Post
This issue is why I always recommend the signal-stat 900 control switch over the military one. It functions exactly the same and uses the same wiring. It does not have the ongoing issues that are common with the military switch.Comment
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switch
Thanks Charles, that's exactly what my taillights are doing. I'll see if I can get it fixed for now, If you have one I'm interested in purchasing the signal stat switch.Comment
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You can purchase a signal-stat 900 series switch at any NAPA, CarQuest, etc. It's in their truck lighting catalog. Cost is around $70. Change the pilot lamp bulb from a 12 volt to a 24 volt; bulb # info is on the instruction sheet that comes with the switch. You will have to splice the wires, as the switch does not come equipped with a cannon plug fitting. The wiring is exactly the same though, so it isn't a problem at all to wire correctly. I've never had a problem from a signal-stat switch, so it's good for the long haul. While you are at it, I'd change the flasher also, the signal-stat 3-prong suggested in the instructions will out last the military flasher 50 times over.Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler View PostComment
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thanks
Well, the new turn signal switch fixed evrything. Some advice to anyone installing gammagoat taillights, I snapped most of the screws in mine while removing the lenses, managed to drill them out and retap them, to avoid this problem, I'd recommend ditching the stock stainless screws and installing a regular carbon steel screw with neversieze, the truck is garage kept and the taillights are only two years old, just a good way to avoid a hassle down the road.Comment
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100% agreement on stainless steel screws. I hate them; they have their place, but generally speaking are a bad choice. They will stretch at nothing, and break with very little more. You just thought you had a problem with rust on threads, dealing with stretched threads on a stainless bolt, 50 times worse.Originally posted by Matthew Ziegler View PostComment
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Charles came through again.....
http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...ad.php?t=12288
Thank you, Charles.
I have a full set of the composite lights I have had for years. I have never had the screws out. Hmmmm......
I would fear the screws are an odd design you could not match in mild steel. Am I wrong, can you find a match, or just something close?Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?Comment
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if they break
Gordon, if the screws snap off it isn't the end of the world, there is a 5/16 dia counterbore in the housings, the threads are recessed into this a good 3/8 inch or so, i took a 5/16 bolt, turned it down untill it was a snug fit into the counterbore, once it fit I put it back in the lathe and drilled out the center to the correct tap size #29 drill I think. this worked as a drill guide, put it in the hole with the broken screw and drill through the center, keeps evrything straight and on track. luckily I have a lathe at my disposal. once your done simply run a tap through the hole.Comment
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