New M37 owner

[jmacqueen]

The process I've used to hook up a divorced t-case to a variety of transmissions, is to have a drive line shop make a custom shaft to link the two. Any shop which makes drive shafts can do this for you. If you have the trans output shaft dimensions, or better yet a jack shaft which was used on the 2.5 ton truck it came out of (boyceequipment.com may have these), and the jack shaft from your M37, once you have the engine/trans mounted in place, measure the distance between the trans output and the t-case input, take your two shafts to the shop and ask them to make a shaft to span that measured gap. I've seen this done with a u-joint on each end (like the M37), or one double-cardan joint in the middle. Having a slip joint is important too, as it will allow the two boxes to flex with the frame during off road driving, without putting pressure on either box.

Because this shaft is so short, it is critical that the trans and t-case be aligned as straight as you can get.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ion/index.html

Thanks Keith, I'm aware of all that, I've had to have custom driveline solutions done before, custom built clutches, custom shafts, custom bell housings, built custom linkages and shifter mounts for other engine/trans swaps myself before so this is far from my first rodeo.

But since Charles installs the same tranny, and he locates the tranny with the shift tower in the original floorplate hole as I am doing the length and positioning should be basically the same, he obviously already has a custom solution that should work.

Just asking if he'd fill me in or sell me one is all.. Trying to give my business to the dodge military and power wagon community when I can. This is a nice bunch of folks.

No big deal. I'm sure the local driveline shops will be more than happy to oblige. Just thought I'd ask here first is all.

[Charles Talbert]

So I'll take that as a no then...

Just trying to throw a little business at you, I'll just take the tranny and jackshaft to a local shop then...

We don't sell individual components. Our shaft is designed & built to fit our set ups. It likely would not work well for you as yours will not be mounted like ours is. It would be better for you to custom work your shaft to your set up, that's what I did years ago, we built it here in our shop.

[jmacqueen]

I understand Charles, just thought I would ask...

I've seen you talk about selling power steering brackets and some other parts and odds and ends, so it's a bit confusing sometimes knowing what you'll sell and what you wont..

[Charles Talbert]

I understand Charles, just thought I would ask...

I've seen you talk about selling power steering brackets and some other parts and odds and ends, so it's a bit confusing sometimes knowing what you'll sell and what you wont..

The steering brackets we fabricate & sell are designed for the 230 engines. We've never sold any Cummins stuff, all that is done in house. Unless you had our complete Cummins package, it won't help you. Odd & end pieces won't work when pulled out of context.

[jmacqueen]

So if I have this right the duece uses a 1410 retainer plate style ujoint on the front of the intermediate shaft, and the M-37 uses a 1310 inside snap ring ujoint.

A quick hunt shows a neapco #2-3190 is a 1410 outside snap ring to 1310 inside snap ring conversion u-joint.

Or also a spicer #2-2-579/neapco #N2-2-579 would bolt to the spicers output flange and is a 1310 outside snap ring ujoint flange. Might need a spacer though to clear the spicer's output shaft nut.

Or what's looking like the most sensible thing so far is a Spicer #3-2-429/Neapco #N3-2-429 flange that should bolt to the spicer's output flange and takes an outside snap ring 1410 ujoint, and use the Spicer#5-357X/Neapco #2-3190 conversion ujoint from 1410 outside snap ring to the 1310 inside snap ring of the M-37 u-joint to mate to my intermediate shaft.

Anyone see any obvious issues?

As far as I can tell this is also a good cross reference for the M-37 intermediate shaft u-joint #.

Rockford K1301
Detroit 5380 U-Joint
Spicer 5-1301X
Neapco 3-0056
Precision 304
Napa PUJ304

Or I guess I could just do it the easy way and make a disc adapter between the output flange on the trans and the front of the intermediate shaft like they did here...

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ion/index.html

[jmacqueen]

Well after talking to a couple folks and looking around it looks like there's two proven ways of connecting my NP200 to the spicer 3053a using my stock intermediate shaft that have been done.

First is an adapter, drilled for bolts on both sides that the spicer flange and stock m-37 flange bolt to, like the jeep article showed.

Second is the spicer #2-2-579/neapco #N2-2-579 flange, that bolts to the spicer 3053a output flange and accepts the M-37 1310 u-joint but requires a 3/8" spacer between the flange and the spicer output flange.

Third and what I think I'll try just to see if it will bolt right up is using the Neapco N3-2-429/spicer 3-2-429 flange that might fit the 3053a flange without a spacer, takes a 1410 u-joint, and use a Neapco 2-3190/Spicer 5-357X u-joint that is 1410 one side/1310 on the other.

I found Kelly Supply online has the entire Neapco catalog online for ordering. $45 for the flange, and $39 for the u-joint.

Guess I'll find out if it works in a few weeks, night still need a spacer. Worst case I can fall back to #1 or #2 easily enough.

[jmacqueen]

Hmm new development.

Just got a tip that the flange from the inter axle shaft on an M35 will bolt right up to trans, and it'll accept the conversion u-joint perfectly. And that u-joint cross references to a NAPA PUJ 362 I can pick up locally.

The shaft will be 11/16" shorter, plus the -1" of space with the longer transmission, and I think I can deal with that easily enough.

That leaves the throwout linkage to figure out, and a throttle cable setup and a linkage to hook the gas pedal up.

No bolt up solution for those I'm afraid, but the hot rod shops are full of throttle cable doodads and linkage doodads.

[jmacqueen]

SO you got this old truck, and your fixing it up... The gas tank looks good, had what looked like clean gas in it when you drained it.

So you think hey no leaks, it's clean doesn't look rusty at all so I'll just use it..

It was tempting to just bolt it in, but I had to have a look inside. Want to know how much dirt gets in a gas tank in 50 years? I didn;t want to know but I did find out.

The tank has been open to atmosphere for over a year, so I knew it would be dry inside, didn't quite expect this though...







About a 1/2 to 3/4" layer of solid dirt. I pulled out what I could reach with my hand, but the last foot on either side is behind a baffle...

And it looked so nice and clean on the outside...

Guess I'll be taking it out to a radiator shop and getting it boiled out and painted.

Funny thing is, under all that old caked on dirt the inside of the tank actually looks pretty good.

[menglert3]

M37

Nice looking truck, just what I've been looking for. Where does a guy find one similar still army green and all? Thanks and if you want to sell let me know!
Mike/Wichita, Kansas
menglert3@cox.net

[jmacqueen]

You could subscribe to Power wagon advertiser that Gordon here puts out. Lots of trucks for sale in it.

Or dodgepowerwagon.com

Or Ebay

Most seem to show up in one of those I think.

Finding an original army green will be tough. Others here know more but all the ones I've seen have been repainted a few times. If it's OD green it's because someone repainted it OD green.

Most went out from the military to forest service or small fire departments and were painted red, yellow or white as far as I can tell.

Mine had been painted yellow over the 2 or more original OD green layers, and then painted green over the yellow after the fire dept sold it. Now it's grey primer and OD green over bare metal.

[n1vsm]

And I thought my fuel filter was bad!

About a 1/2 to 3/4" layer of solid dirt.

My truck was running a bit rough, so I opened up the fuel filter (in the engine compartment) and found that same sort of sludge. I cleaned out all of the gunk & sure enough the silly thing sprung a leak. The sludge had been sealing a pinhole until I cleaned it up. I don't even want to think of what the inside of my gas tank looks like ....

[jmacqueen]

Well a little time has passed..

I got my engine and transmission and it's taken a while to sort out how I wanted to attach them together.

I bought the trans for $600 and got a flywheel and starter and a housing with it. But the flywheel and housing weren't what I wanted or could use.

I picked up a different SAE #3 flywheel housing new for $300.

I ended up after much searching and a lot of talking with other folks which flywheel would work. I couldn't find one used so I dug in the bank account and bought a new one from Cummins or $1000. The starter I got with the trans fits perfectly.

I ended up getting a 13" Lipe clutch from Haldex used for a case engine, 3113 I believe. It's ceramic and rated for 500 ft lbs. and fits the splines on the Spicer.

The last issue was the pilot bearing, I ended up with a 52mm OD (bore of the flywheel) with a 25mm ID, and into that I'm pressing a 25mmOD bronze bushing which I will ream out to the proper ID for the spicer transmission which is about 19mm with an adjustable reamer.

One question still in my mind though maybe some folks here can discuss. I know a bronze pilot bushing is supposed to have about .003 clearance on the input shaft.. Does anyone know what clearance a pilot bearing should have? Seems it should be tighter to me .002? .001? Or maybe just play it by ear and ream it out until it's a tight slip fit?

[jmacqueen]

Well I got it all together...

This is what it took..

$600 for a good used Spicer 3053a

$300 for SAE #3 flywheel housing. #3933387 There several different #'s that will work, depending on where you need mounting flanges and starter location.

$350 for a single disk 13" 500ftlb clutch. Napa #MBI RC2077136X

$1000 for a new flywheel. I couldn't find a used one. Cummins #3935205
I did see one for $675 from a cummins powered generator..

About $30 for pilot bearing.

For the pilot bearing I used a 52mmOD x 25mm ID bearing from Mcmaster Carr, and a 25mmOD x 18mmID bushing pressed in the bearing and I reamed out the bushing ID for a tight fit slip on the transmission shaft nose.

And I had to take about 1/4" off the end of the trans input shaft as it would hit the back of the crankshaft about 1/4" shy of pulling together tight. I just used an angle grinder and dressed it up with a file.

That's all SAE 3#, about $2300 total including transmission and all parts. Went together easily and the stock M-35 throwout looks like it'll work great.

It's hanging in the frame now from the hoist, I decided to modify the oil pan for clearance from the front diff. after looking at it. I just cut the whole sump off the pan, moved it over 2" to the driver's side, welded it back on and filled the 2" gaps either side with some sheet metal fillets.

So the side of the sump that the diff would hit now comes down about an inch from the block, then angles at about a 45^ two inches toward the driver's side where the sump is. Should clear nicely.

I'd post a pic but boy my mig welds are ugly... ;) Hopefully I didn't leave any pin holes, I went over the weld with another bead to try to make sure, hence the ugliness.

Now I have to move the pickup tube over about an inch and get the pan back on, not a big deal it's brazed into the flange it bolts to the block with.. and it bolts way up at the front pass side corner of the block so I'll just un braze it, rotate it a bit and braze it back up.

Next weekend is motor mount brackets..

[jmacqueen]

Well it's been 4 months.....

I have been fiddling on and off with engine placement. Welded up a few motor mount brackets, and modded them a couple times already.

I've been having a hard time trying to figure out a placement of the engine trans combo that gives me clearance from the front axle/ tie rod while placing the spicer trans where the shifter will fit up through the original floor pan without modifying it and have the trans output shaft parallel with the transfer case input shaft.

I'm wondering how much out of parallel the shafts can be without inducing a vibration in the intermediate shaft?

Trying to keep it stock as possible.

So far it just seem the trans will end up slanting to the rear a little, while the transfer case is about level.

If I can get this right, the rest will be down hill...