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Differential Questions.....Locking or not

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  • MoparNorm
    replied
    Originally posted by MasterYota View Post
    ... a lockright will work just as well as an ARB for a fraction of the cost. ...
    I've been reading the posts with interest and with an open mind, but having run ARB's for over 20 years, without any type of axle issues I must take issue with that one statement.
    An ARB unit is 100% locked, without any clutch, brake input, or monkeying with the throttle to engage. It engages seamlessly, fully and without any strain placed upon the axles.
    I have a set front and rear in my Power Wagon (W200) and front and rear in my Jeep.
    They currently cost about $850-$950 per axle, less compressor, to purchase, there are some places that charge more but shopping around always helps.
    When you are done with your traction needs, a simple flick of the switch and you are once again 100% open.
    They are worth every penny and only need to be purchased once and they do not cause harm to any adjacent components.

    Leave a comment:


  • MasterYota
    replied
    Having been satisfied lockright owner for years, I would have to say that 9 out 10 driveline failures that I've ever seen, (PW, M37, or otherwise) have been due to operator error, rather driveline mods. IMO parade route trucks, or rigs driven on asphalt more than 80 percent of the time don't need a locker at all.
    If your truck spends 90-100 percent on the farm, or gravel roads at best, a lockright will work just as well as an ARB for a fraction of the cost. If your looking for a 50-50 mix, then pony up the cash and spend the money on the ARB.
    Operator error, and wrong equipment for the wrong environment is what usually breaks parts. Most people forget to upgrade to a new set of axle shafts when installing a differential. 50-60 year old previously stressed axles are not going to last long no matter what locking diff is turning them.

    While I can appreciate Charles bias towards the ARB, (and it is a fantastic unit - on that I can't argue) it dosen't make financial sense to me to install one or two in a truck. At 12 or 13 hundred dollars an end US plus the cost of an air compressor, plus the cost of installation (if you can't do it yourself) and you've probably shelled out what you paid for, or more for the truck. I'm fairly sure I could buy at least 2 lockrights and replace every axle in the truck 4 times over, before I equaled the cost of the ARB's. And the worst part of it all, is that the strength of the truck hasn't been increased at all with either locker. The axles are still the weak link, and will still break if the ARB is engaged, and driving conditions are not in your favor.

    Either way is a gamble in one respect or another. The third option is leave 'em open and put a winch on the front...

    Leave a comment:


  • Charles Talbert
    replied
    Yep

    A broken axle shaft with a Lock-Rite in the mix will cause exactly what you describe. This is one of several scenarios that are quite common issues with Lock-Rites. Very likely there is a broken axle shaft, also very likely that the Lock-Rite is the reason it's broken. There is but one wise choice with a locker, that is the ARB air locker. Why? Simply because it can be disengaged when not needed instead of stressing the heck out of everything in sight when running on highway like a Lock-Rite does.

    I know my statement concerning this hurts the feelings of some, sorry fellows, it's still the truth. If you haven't learned yet, hang on, your time will surely come.

    Leave a comment:


  • MasterYota
    replied
    I would say that it is possible, and the cause is probably due to a broken axle shaft. The lockrite was still transfering power to the non-broken axle shaft, which allowed the driver to continue driving. An open diff would not have allowed this. When the vehicle was parked on the incline, the loss of input torque to the diff allows the lockrite to dissengage, and in laymans terms, neither axle (the good one, or the broken one) is now connected inside the diff. With no parking brake at the drum, when the vehicle started to roll, the locker could possible engage on the one side which would produce the ratcheting noise, as the other side has no resistance due to the broken axle.

    I've never considered a situation like this before, but it is feasible now that I think about it. However, I don't think the cause could be attributed soley to the lockrite. Any style of automatic locker(detroit, lockright, ect...) could cause a problem like this, with a broken axleshaft. A selectable locker would show a broken axle much faster, as the vehicle wouldn't move when the locker wasn't engaged.

    Leave a comment:


  • MoparNorm
    replied
    Anything short of actually taking the axle apart and inspecting would be speculation, but while both scenarios seem plausible, a broken axle is most likely the cause. Even if a Lockright unloaded (it's not a true positive locker when not under a load), it would still need the opposite side axle to be free wheeling, so a broken hub flange or axle might cause that.

    Leave a comment:


  • shawn085
    replied
    Here is a story I was told a few years ago. Can someone tell me if it could happen because of a locker. A fellow I new with a M37 put a lockright in his rear axle and loved it. But one day he parked facing up a steep hill. He got out and started to walk away and thruck started to go down the hill. The wheels were "ratcheting" or cliking as the truck went down the hill. Because the park bake on the M37 is on the transfercase that means if you brake a axle or a drive shaft no park brake. So could/would this happen because of the locker or maybe he had a broken axle and didn't know it. And the locker was trying it best to hold the truck in postion with just one wheel. Coments please.

    Leave a comment:


  • Keith in CO
    replied
    Lock-Right 1210

    Originally posted by Doakster View Post
    Where can I get a set of Lockrits?
    Type Lockright 1210 into a search engine and you will come up with many suppliers. Model 1210 is what you need for the M37 - that is if you want to put traction to the wheels on the ground rather than just the ones spinning in the air . . .

    Leave a comment:


  • MasterYota
    replied
    Originally posted by Doakster View Post
    Where can I get a set of Lockrits?




    I take it Dan is associated with ARB?

    I've seen them on ebay. Plus any reputable gear vendor should be able to get them for you. Even most of the parts stores will sell lockrights should have a listing.

    Leave a comment:


  • MoparNorm
    replied
    No, Dan is one of "us" who contacted ARB and set up the limited run with them.

    At the link: Power Wagon Lockers

    Leave a comment:


  • Doakster
    replied
    Originally posted by MasterYota View Post
    Lockrits function more like the detroit locker - 100% automatic locking differential. They just are not as strong as a detroit, as they replace only the spider gears, and not the whole carrier assembly.

    As for the arb, I don't know if they are still available or not. Only that a limited run was produced. If any still exist though, or for sale, they will be found on this board.
    Where can I get a set of Lockrits?


    Originally posted by MoparNorm View Post
    The Selectable ARB locker was sold out. Dan made two runs of them. You might contact Dan Shockley to see if he has any plans for another run, He may start a list of interested folks and if he gets enough interest they could run another batch.
    However, he is currently working on selectable hubs.
    I take it Dan is associated with ARB?

    Leave a comment:


  • MoparNorm
    replied
    The Selectable ARB locker was sold out. Dan made two runs of them. You might contact Dan Shockley to see if he has any plans for another run, He may start a list of interested folks and if he gets enough interest they could run another batch.
    However, he is currently working on selectable hubs.

    Leave a comment:


  • MasterYota
    replied
    Lockrits function more like the detroit locker - 100% automatic locking differential. They just are not as strong as a detroit, as they replace only the spider gears, and not the whole carrier assembly.

    As for the arb, I don't know if they are still available or not. Only that a limited run was produced. If any still exist though, or for sale, they will be found on this board.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doakster
    replied
    Originally posted by MasterYota View Post
    Lockrites and ARB's are the only two aftermarket locking differentials that I am aware of. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.
    Are the lockrites similar to a limited slip? And I thought the ARBs where on hold and you couldn't get them right now? I could be wrong...if they are available where can I get them?

    Leave a comment:


  • MasterYota
    replied
    Lockrites and ARB's are the only two aftermarket locking differentials that I am aware of. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cheyenne Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by Doakster View Post
    On second thought I think i just answered my own question...and did a little searching.

    They are open correct?
    Correct...

    Leave a comment:

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