The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

Power steering pump

Got it done . A mix of four or five pumps . I stripped several pumps in an effort to get a usable can and had the best one destroyed when my local shop tried to TIG weld a piece on to the can . I got a new can delivered to my door for less than twenty dollars . I used the best parts from the pumps and found I had quite the variety of poppet valves . Some have longer bodies than others and some use more washers than others . I gather the less washers and the shorter the length the higher the pressure the pump will put out .
The shortest poppet valve used no washers . I used that one .
The red screw came from a fully detailed pump that I had from a build from about 30 years ago . The whole pump will get shot with Cummins beige . I am not painting the head of each screw a different colour .
I am going to use a Dodge remote bee hive style oil filter housing as the power steering pump reservoir . The return line from the hydro boost brake will connect to the reservoir ..... at least that is the plan .

[TonyKeffaber]

Sled

I made a little bit of progress, although it took roughly ten hours to get the side panel cut out and the new panel fitted. Took all day today of welding and grinding to get it in. I have the inner and outer fenders on order, will cut the opening when they arrive.

The panel fit was perfect before I started, and I skipped around with the welding. I didn't seem to get any warp, but the weld did "sink" a bit. I really was hoping I could grind it off and have a perfect seem.

I haven't decided if I want to fill it it and smooth it with all metal before I prime, or prime and fill it in then. I think I want to fill it before I prime to get it close so when I prime and block its pretty straight, but would like some opinions on that.

[Bruce in BC]

Done it both ways

personally I would rough up the area with 36 grit .
Then really clean the area .
Epoxy the area , covering the weld and go a few inches above and below the weld , 3 to 6 inches each side .
Wait the required amount of time and then hit it with the All Metal
Shape and sand with 80 to 120
Once the whole thing is done you get to clean the entire truck and then seal it with epoxy .

you are doing a great job . I am looking forward to some more pictures and the work on the fenders .

Well done

Bruce

Looks like an article for the mag to me .

[TonyKeffaber]

Thanks Bruce

I remember reading your comments about 3 hours here, 3 hours there, it sure is taking me a lot of 3 hour nights to make progress, but at least most of those have been moving forward.

I'll be sure to post some pictures of the fenders. I basically ordered 4 fenders, two as inner fenders which are closed and 9 inches wide, two as outer fenders that are 13 inches wide. The plan is to fit the inner fenders and trim them to the body and the floor, and allow the outer fenders to slip into the inner fender and attach with bolts. Once the welding is done, I'll remove the inner wall panel, clean up the inner cavity, and paint.

After painting, I'm considering using a roll on bed liner to coat the inside of the outer body. Those panel are very large, and I thought bedliner might add some rigidity just in case the panel gets tapped in the future, sort of a anti oil can insurance policy, but I'd be interested if anyone has some better thoughts. When I cleaned my doors there was a circle of tar like substance in them, I figured that was Dodge's idea for the same issue when it was build.

[Gordon Maney]

I don't believe you would achieve any meaningful change in rigidity, as you put it. It could help with rust prevention, however.

[Desoto61]

I would agree that it's not adding a lot of rigidity to the panel, but it will add mass, which will make it quieter and a bit more dense feeling, as well as any protection it adds. In fact you may want to look at one of the spray-on sound deader options as an alternative, though they are probably very similar products.

[Bruce in BC]

got the M37 parking brake assemble

I now have all the parts needed to adapt the NP200 parking brake assemble over to the NP205 . It will take a few trips to the machine shop to get everything machined up so that it will fit and I am going to have to machine my Tom Woods output flange or have a sleeve attached to it . The drum needs to be centred and indexed to the flange . The only way to do so will be to do some sort of adapter or machining on the out put flange .
When I picked up the brake I noticed a complete Power Wagon and asked about it . He got it for the price of scrap . Turns out there had been a farm full of military vehicles and everything was getting crushed . A classic story and sad . The vehicle he saved was tucked away in a corner - the kind of place that the worse vehicle is left at .
Apparently the scrappers had been dragging loads of crushed vehicles out for several days . Considering how many vehicles you can get on a flat bed trailer once crushed there must have been quite a collection .

[Bruce in BC]

Entertaining ad for a WC53

Amazing the misconceptions that take place over time . The latest WC53 to come up on epay is a fine example . The ad describes what may be the rarest WC53 ever built or not built at the factory .

First the Carryall is called a military power wagon, and then it says that it was used in the Korean War


- Then the fact that it runs makes it rare , that it has a hard cover enclosed back cab , it has the original winch with original cable and not only that it has , get this , the original LEVER ( finally we have proof that these vehicles came with winches ), dual transmissions and equipped with twin clutches , and not only that instead of a Dodge frame this vehicle has the super rare a Jeap/Willis frame, and a Dodge flat head 6 cylinder engine.
And the vehicle is all original and not been molested ... well except for the mods to the rear bumper , mods to the spare tire , deleation of the battery box , strange addition to the rear lights and the multiple welded tube missle launcher /jim pole / snow plow attachment .

All that aside it would be interesting to talk to the original owner and get a bit of history . Once again we have multiple coats of paint that show up in the rear opening , green , red and maybe a bit of black under that top coat .

-

[Alxj64]

Amazing the misconceptions that take place over time . The latest WC53 to come up on epay is a fine example . The ad describes what may be the rarest WC53 ever built or not built at the factory .

First the Carryall is called a military power wagon, and then it says that it was used in the Korean War


- Then the fact that it runs makes it rare , that it has a hard cover enclosed back cab , it has the original winch with original cable and not only that it has , get this , the original LEVER ( finally we have proof that these vehicles came with winches ), dual transmissions and equipped with twin clutches , and not only that instead of a Dodge frame this vehicle has the super rare a Jeap/Willis frame, and a Dodge flat head 6 cylinder engine.
And the vehicle is all original and not been molested ... well except for the mods to the rear bumper , mods to the spare tire , deleation of the battery box , strange addition to the rear lights and the multiple welded tube missle launcher /jim pole / snow plow attachment .

All that aside it would be interesting to talk to the original owner and get a bit of history . Once again we have multiple coats of paint that show up in the rear opening , green , red and maybe a bit of black under that top coat .

-

AND... you can get all of that for a measly $10k... Yea I saw the ad and thought all of the same things about it. The last one I picked up was in a bad way rust wise but was 1000% more original and unmolested than the current e-pay candidate. $10k... that last one I saw sell on there had 11.00R16 XLs on it, 4.89s, clean paint, original interior, and was sold as such, and I think it went for $23k right? The gray one if anyone remembers.

[Gordon Maney]

What does this mean?

hard cover enclosed back cab

[Bruce in BC]

hard cover enclosed back cab

If you do not know what you are talking about you either invent stuff or take what others tell you and turn it into an infactual fact .

So instead of a troop carrier with canvas the ad would say something like this - " comes with it's own factory porch , awning and super rare fold up deck chairs . "
The hole for the aerial would be called a " machine gun port " on a carryall .
The oil bath air filter would be called " venturi activated oil cooler "
and of course the Jeep Willis frame was manufactured by the Willis Chambers tractor company because they were the only company capable of making off road frames for the military .

[Gordon Maney]

From that we get terms like 1941 military Power Wagon.

[Alxj64]

From that we get terms like 1941 military Power Wagon.

And thats the exact listing I found my last Carryall described as.. except they always have "powerwagon", (one word) instead of two words. Its nice when it works out in the buyers favor and you can save something valuable from someone who thinks its just junk, whats dissapointing, such as in the aforementioned ebay listing is when someone has something they don't know much about so suddenly its worth a lot until they learn otherwise. I've found this in many occasions in junkyards while searching for my Eaton axles. Most yard owners see them as worth a little more than scrap... however some see them worth thousands of dollars each.


Back on topic, while I am here ofcourse.

Mine hasn't been touched much lately. I did recently build some adjustable stands for installing the axle back at ride height so I can cycle the suspension from full compression to full droop and adjust my rideheight to my desire and make sure steering, oil pan clearance, etc etc will all fit. I decided to pull the motor back out and focus on getting the axle exactly where I want it before finalizing any motor mounts. Ride height and axle placement is somewhat a priority at the moment given my new front suspension design... yes... links.

[Desoto61]

Mine hasn't been touched much lately. I did recently build some adjustable stands for installing the axle back at ride height so I can cycle the suspension from full compression to full droop and adjust my rideheight to my desire and make sure steering, oil pan clearance, etc etc will all fit. I decided to pull the motor back out and focus on getting the axle exactly where I want it before finalizing any motor mounts. Ride height and axle placement is somewhat a priority at the moment given my new front suspension design... yes... links.

I was wondering how you were going to cycle a leaf spring suspension. The 4BTA and NV4500 in mine barely moved the springs.

And you were worried about the heat from removing the front crossmember, going to need a flack jacket now!

[TonyKeffaber]

Measure a lot, cut twice

Making slow progress. After getting both sides welded on, and getting the fenders, I measure a couple of hundred times and cut out the rear wheel wells. Was difficult making that big cut, but I wanted to use one piece a new metal down the side to keep all the bottom edge true. I still have 3/4 of a inch to take off the opening, but I left that to check my measurements again, and that is the width of the flange on the inner fender, so I have a good place to clamp to while I check things.

I still need to square the inner fenders to each other, and brace them somehow. I also need to decide if I and going to push them through the opening or not. The way they are sitting now it would make the panel flat at the wheel opening. If I measure at the door there is about a 1 3/4 inch crown there. Since the panel sides were rusting, not connected to the inner fenders, and flopping around, I couldn't get a feel for exactly where they should have been, and am assuming the crown continues through the wheel well. I guess the good thing about building a one off mutt is you can do what you think looks right anyway