The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

Turbo tear down part 2

The turbo pretty much fell apart . A little tap here and a little tap there and each piece popped off . Parts do need a good cleaning . There was oil in the intake side of the turbo and it was coming from around the bearing . The bearing on the exhaust side has been cooked and had carbon in it . I can still see felt pen numbers on the vanes and some internal parts . One number was engraved and four others written in fine felt pen or ink .

[Desoto61]

The turbo pretty much fell apart . A little tap here and a little tap there and each piece popped off . Parts do need a good cleaning . There was oil in the intake side of the turbo and it was coming from around the bearing . The bearing on the exhaust side has been cooked and had carbon in it . I can still see felt pen numbers on the vanes and some internal parts . One number was engraved and four others written in fine felt pen or ink .

Mine wouldn't budge, tried wax, penetrating oil, heat, no help. I did find some super high temp paint, supposed to be good for well over 1000 degrees, it doesn't even cure unless you get it hot enough, we'll see how it holds up if I ever get it running long enough to get it that hot.

[Bruce in BC]

it is amazing

Really quite amazing how many things you can rebuild with a can of paint . With a wire brush and a felt pen many of the parts seem to go from good used to NOS .
I think the turbo housing can get pretty close to 1200 degrees . I have had my wood stove in the house glowing red hot . ( noticed it after I turned out the lights for the night ) and the stove remains black . Nothing on it more than stove paint and that is what I have used on a few exhaust systems and headers over the years . Some work , some does not , and the cost does not seem to have any relation to how well it works . The best stuff came in a paste and looked like shoe polish . Long gone now . That stuff stayed black and had sort of a satin look to it .

hiking tomorrow

Bruce

[Bruce in BC]

got the turbo rebuilt

Lost some index marks and had to play with the turbo to get the oil lines and air outlet to line up . Besides that the procedure is quite simple . What takes the most time is cleaning the internal parts and removing the scale from the mating surfaces . Found one crack in the exhaust side housing but it does not create any problems at this time . I will toss another turbo on after this one sees a bunch more miles .

take care
Bruce

[Alxj64]

Been tinkering some more. Built a drop in cross member to hold the Allison at the SAE adapter mounts. Used an '01 Chebby Duramax transmission mount for the bushing.





Also started to get the steering box in.

[Alxj64]

Few more pictures. Posting this from my phone so apologies for any garble or out of order.

Steering box proximities.



Full compression. Keeping the truck low as possible for stability and giving myself plenty of ride height adjustment.


Another detail of the transmission mount.

[Bruce in BC]

Nice welds

The steering box looks good in there , like it belongs . That is one beefy cross ember . Your fab and design skills are worth emulating .
.
Messing with the exhaust , cutting fire wood and doing a ton of house stuff leaves little time for tinkering . Thanks for the update

Bruce

The rains have arrived early .

[gmayer]

Tony, Can you give some more details on your carbon electrode setup?
I have an electrolysis tank and am using plain steel as the sacrificial anode.
Where did you purchase the carbon, dimensions, 1/2x14 bar??? What did you use to hook the wire to the carbon? thanks Garrett

Slow going on the de-rusting, but I bought some carbon electrodes off of Ebay. These have really picked up the pace over pieces of metal, and they don't need to be cleaned much at all. I can tell I over invested in battery charger, should have put money into the anodes from the start. While I'm waiting on the tank, I figured I would start to tackle the rear dooors

I know you guys all have tailgate stories, barn doors don't seem to be any better. Seems like no one could back up a Dodge 60 years ago without hitting something, so Dodge figured rust control was a waste of money.

One hinge is completely rusted out, and the other one looks bad. I can't think of any good ideas other than pulling the door skin, but if someone has other suggestions I'm all ears.[/QUOTE]

[Bruce in BC]

Are we talking barn doors ?

Pop the skin . if you do not want to do that then cut out the area that is around the hinge and repair that area . This will mean drilling out the rivets and cutting the inside carcass with a zip disc .
How many amps are you running your anti rust tank at ?

[gmayer]

Bruce, sorry about the confusion, I was quoting a previous post.

I have a forklift battery charger, I don't know how many amps off hand, but it is a lot!

[TonyKeffaber]

4 CARBON ARC ELECTRODES 15/16 BY 12 INCH rod

Hey there Garrett, sounds like you are making progress! I used these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-CARBON-ARC...item4d1154fe00

I made the rack out of PVC, I think it was 3/4 inch, it held the rods pretty nicely.

To connect them, I used PVC pipe holders as a clamp and fished copper wire along each side of the rod. It works very well when they are brand new, but as they erode, the clamp becomes too big. I suspect 1/2 might have worked better. Nice thing about the PVC is its unaffected in the tank, and when the electrode is used up I just popped the connectors about, put in new rods, and started up again. Additionally, the PVC somewhat prevented me from grounding any of the parts against the electrode. They worked the best when I put them inside the doors, I got a lot of coverage for areas I knew I couldn't get to very well.

[Bruce in BC]

Sometimes it is the little things

That save you fixing things in the future .You are looking for the bracket that is painted black and has two silver bolts in the top . I made this exhaust support bracket that attaches to the exhaust manifold . I found a super high end clamp to hold the exhaust in the bracket . Seems to work fine .

edit 195,500 hits on this thread , how about that , we might get 200,000 before Christmas . We need more pretty pictures though , pictures sell .

[Alxj64]

Blehh.. Turbo problems... I've been playing with my fair share. The little HY30W Holset that I have "had" a weird shaped downpipe flange on the hot side outlet. I didn't really pay much mind to it at first. Ordered a 3" dia standard type V-band and flange kit to start mocking up my exhaust... That didn't fit even though the Cummins documents I have said it used a 3" clamp.. okay.. maybe the clamp is just 3", but measured it and a 2.5" V band kit was closer in size. Ordered that... It fit diameter wise, but the flange shape on the holset was so weird that the V band clamp would not bite and close... darn it... So, turbo was split in half, and like you said before Bruce, worse part is the scale and rust inside the hot housing... took it to a machine shop locally and had them face the outlet by about .0165" and now my 2.5" V band clamp fits perfectly... Problem #2, I have done the math for the engine, and perfomance, parts, and sound wise I want full 3" dia all the way back... and already had a nice set of compound stainless J-bends and expansion coupler, the 3" Vband kit from the first attempt, etc... So, I've got some Stainless plate and am going to try my hand at making an adapter to step up from the 2.5" Vband coupler flange immediately to my 3" dia exhaust and do it in a fashion that hopefully doesn't look like a flux core welded turbo exhaust that we've all seen scattered around the internet under the caption "Fabrication R Hard"...

I've got some pictures somewhere Bruce, just need to upload and find them. Also in the mean time I would have had my steering more closely to being done but the metal supplier sent me the wrong size tubing for my steering box slugs. Ordered 7/8" OD x .156" wall, and they sent me 0.109" wall... (14 MM dia. for the steering box bolts) so now I am waiting on my correct material and also some of my Tie rod ends and such didn't show up yet either. Fedex from Cali is slow lately.

Only picture of the turbo so far. I'll get some more pictures of cool stuff in the next few days I hope.

[Bruce in BC]

2.5 to 3 inch stainless

If you can find a bell or flair that will slip inside the 3" pipe the weld will be much easier to do and you can grind down the welds that look cobbled .
I would like to have the hot side of the turbo ceramic coated but the places that do that are a few hours away from here and expensive . So the turbo has a coat of stove black .
Sounds like you have hit a few of the same walls as I did . I stepped up from 2.5" to 3" right at the flange that mounts to the turbo . Not sure if I built up the flange with a bit of weld but I do remember shrinking the pipe at the end to get it to fit . Lots of little taps with a body hammer in an attempt to roll the pipe down . Also I selected a bend that necked down a bit , which made fitting the two parts quite simple .

edit : actually I flared it out because at the bend the diameter shrank too much .
Bruce

[Alxj64]

Haven't messed with the Turbo/exhaust connection yet but I did work more on the steering. Since I am running parallel link bars in the front, I am essentially building what is known as a "5 link", so I need a track bar in the front to keep the lateral movements under control and that bar has to work in exact arc conjunction with the steering drag link to prevent bump steer.

Here is what I managed to do so far.

I cut some slugs to stand-off the steering box and got it clocked to where I like it.





Then I measured out and rough cut my tie rod and drag link now that all of the parts are here.



^ That is the suspension at absolute full compression.