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Got my NP205 rebuilt over the weekend. Nice heavy duty divorced case... emphasis on heavy. Rebuilt two at once actually, well one right after the other as I have a friend who is installing one in a race truck.
Also did some more work on my exhaust system before getting things buttoned up to put the body back on. Fighting some insane clearance issues to get this full 3" exhaust all the way back to be legal in VA.
Think I can just use header wrap on the tailpipe back here by the fuel tank? I could build a baffle but not sure I want to undertake that additional challenge... Its a tight tight fit between the leafs and the tank. I may even have to dent the pipe just slightly to allow one of the spring bolts a touch of clearance at full compression. Its a tight fit to get around the shock, over the axle, and past the tank. Stainless steel is also expensive and unforgiving if you make a mistake so its been a slow go.
Well done on the NP205 rebuilds.
A couple of things on your exhaust. The stock location was to exit in front of the rear passenger side tire. Not sure about VA but normally you do not have to upgrade or exceed what came as stock. That said - who wants to deal with the hassle of uninformed roadside inspectors or police?
Wrap might work - I plan on using some on mine. A heat shield would work too, a thin strip of stainless wrapped from the top to the 7:30 position should be fine.
But you could run it as is and see if the tank does get warm. It is such a big heat sink, I doubt it would get very warm at all. Might be good for the fuel…
Great images, thanks for the update. I think you have the best Carryall build to date.
Well done on the NP205 rebuilds.
A couple of things on your exhaust. The stock location was to exit in front of the rear passenger side tire. Not sure about VA but normally you do not have to upgrade or exceed what came as stock. That said - who wants to deal with the hassle of uninformed roadside inspectors or police?
Wrap might work - I plan on using some on mine. A heat shield would work too, a thin strip of stainless wrapped from the top to the 7:30 position should be fine.
But you could run it as is and see if the tank does get warm. It is such a big heat sink, I doubt it would get very warm at all. Might be good for the fuel…
Great images, thanks for the update. I think you have the best Carryall build to date.
The law in Va is written as it must be THE original exhaust system or replaced with one of similar standards to that of currently produced systems in regards to production automotive passenger vehicles and trucks. Its a gray area that side exit is allowed if OE. Since the exhaust on mine is not "OE" it therefore must comply to current production standards. I know someone personally who had a Jeep and his exhaust exited outside of the Jeep behind the rear tire and he still could not get the vehicle through inspection and also recieved a ticket during a "road check" for the same issue when it was current. Being that the truck is a '42, it would take just the right kind of LEO to ticket me on it... but just for the sake of not ever having to worry with it I am just going to run it all the way back. Will also help with drone dissipation, and keep the truck cleaner too.
Thanks for the compliments on the build. I day dream about driving it literally every day so it keeps me motivated and keeps me justified on spending a little extra time and $ during the assembly. I've built it 1,000,000 times in my head but still run into little things I've overlooked or revisions in how I want / hope things would come together.
I need to finish up the exhaust, build my torque-arm (anti-wrap/traction) bar for the rear along with the front hanger, and finish running and supporting my fuel lines and leaving a few extra mounts for the rear lights wiring stuff... and then I hope to get the body back on... Oct will be one year that the body has been off... man these projects sure do take a long time when you cover every last detail and spec out every last bolt.
So got the body back on... and some things work and some things don't... more good than bad but some stupid things... like the fuel tank BARELY doesn't load from the bottom with the body on. Sucks. Have to pull the diff cover for just enough room...
So... some things to consider and I need help with.
Need a dimension.. from the bottom hole of the front cowl to the top of the frame rail, whats the dimension? And then front of frame horn to center of the same hole? Trying to get my cowl elevation right. Without it in place, I can't get the fenders and hood and all that to jive right.
I have to build a floor and firewall. its going to be a pain.
And lastly... my gauge source was going to be speed hut.. They don't sell 2 1/16" dia Volt gauges or fuel level gauges. So now I need to make a decision on the gauge sets... do I ditch the little lamp covers and just re-work the whole gauge cluster?
Ok - on the height of the rad shroud , install the fender brackets. The bottom of the bracket is dead even with the top of the frame , right under the hole . At least that is the case with mine . Keep in mind that you can shim the rad up but not down when building the rad brace…. You have tabs that go out over the frame , what is the deal with that ? My rad only attaches to the cross member with two bolts. There is a bracket at the front of the cross member that the two bolts go into.
I have been fighting with this and that on my truck .
(1) the hydroboost was leaking , so I modified another one, I will order in a rebuild kit for the one that I took out. There is four hours of time burned up.
(2) Got the door bumpers from Marks , they are decent but one was different from the rest , the single one took the stock backing plate without a problem , the other three came from a different mold (they have numbers , the single did not) so I had to modify the plates to fit. Of course I dropped one plate into the door jam and will not see it ever again. So there was two hours of filing and creating new backing plates . The stops are all in now.
(3) leaking brakes - found one issue - there was paint under the sealing area - the paint was messing up the seal, now that the paint is gone the callipers do not seem to be leaking.
Your truck looks down right sexy on those wheels and tires . My low profile rollers look down right lame.
Its looking good Alex, regardless of minor fitment problems. There always seems to be something I overlooked a month, or year ago, that isn't quite right.
I don't have any dimensions, as mine are different anyway. However, It seems that the lower step in the body line that passes through body, door and firewall cowl should help in alignment. The hood hinge and bottom of radiator cowls upper piece should be in the same plane as that line. At least that is what I determined from hours scrutinizing carryall pictures...String lines and straight edges are how I located mine.
The distance from the front of the frame to the centre of the hole is 9.25". My frame was notched for a tube bumper at the front, I patched the notch and am not sure if the frame is exactly stock length…. My impression is that the length is correct, about 85% sure.
Alex , how often do you plan on dropping the fuel tank? You did jack up the frame and have that rear at full drop when you attempted to install the tank. What about disconnecting the rear shackles and dropping the axle another 3 inches? Honestly that sounds like something I would run into.
You ever have one of those days, or several, where you're just lost? The past couple days I've gone out to the barn to work on the truck and I just don't know where to go. I picked up the doors and put them on the bench to stare at, lots of work, few supplies.... Looked at the tailgate fabrication, needs a template, too much thought.... Looked at the windshield hinges placement and latch, couldn't make a decision. Everything I looked at I was unhappy tackling, so consequently nothing got done. Very frustrating. I don't like wasting time but just couldn't make it happen.
Hope everyone else is doing well.
I have may days like that, but I have actually made some progress. Alex, I too rebuilt my NP205 case recently. Even slapped a little Cummins Beige on it!
Also found a really good deal on a set of American Racing wheels and Goodyear MT/R's last week. They are not quite as tall as I was planning on, but I think they look pretty good on it. I'm really just building a driver, so this is probably a pretty good balance as far as size.
Finally got the front clip off and am ready to pull the 4bt from the van and begin fitting it to the carryall frame. I am waiting for the temps to drop below 95 degrees and 90% humidity to pull the 4bt though!
I'm really excited to be making progress again on the power train.
You ever have one of those days, or several, where you're just lost? The past couple days I've gone out to the barn to work on the truck and I just don't know where to go. I picked up the doors and put them on the bench to stare at, lots of work, few supplies.... Looked at the tailgate fabrication, needs a template, too much thought.... Looked at the windshield hinges placement and latch, couldn't make a decision. Everything I looked at I was unhappy tackling, so consequently nothing got done. Very frustrating. I don't like wasting time but just couldn't make it happen.
Hope everyone else is doing well.
Been there too, the hardest part sometimes is just pulling the trigger because then you're committed to it. It's like a roller coaster, all the days I couldn't make myself go out and tackle some task I didn't want to do, and now I've got so many things I could be working on I it's like I have ADD.
I look at it like this... Anytime spent thinking about it is progress. A good idea isn't a good idea if you don't have some bad ones to compare it too. Heck, even last night I sat in mine on stacked wooden blocks trying to get ergonomics of the shifter location, column, gauges etc. Mental progress is still progress.
Everyone's project is looking good! This thread is hopping and glad to be part of it and glad to know people are enjoying our work!
Bruce! Thanks for those dimensions! I'm going to start sourcing my parts for the radiator and intercooler builds. Hoping to get them to fit with each other.
Help me find an original radiator cap. Or an original looking cap that has a more modern engagement.
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