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  • The great exploding Carryall saga, or worm clamps suck.

    Had the truck out again today. While coming to the top of a long climb there was a big burst of steam as I slowed down. Got out , raised the hood, and the lower hose was disconnected from the rad. By some fluke I had a straight screw driver. After about 15 minutes of mucking around I managed to get the hose back on. After about 20 trips to a stream the rad got filled using a one litre bottle. Luckily this happened in one of the few level spots at the top of a steep climb and the block did not crack. I elected to check the other clamps and sure enough most had backed off, including 2 that I had tightened using a socket and ratchet and where stupid tight last week. So is there a better hose clamp over the worm gear style? Or is there a trick that stops then from backing off? This is the first time the bottom has come loose but the third time I have had the hoses pop off.
    I am starting to wonder if a bellows on the lower hose line similar to one used in a turbo system would help in any way. This is not fun. Easy way to crack a block.
    Had the truck in stupid low when I crossed the creek, not sure how low that is but both transfer cases were in low and the tranny was down there too.

    Unknown to me my passenger took a video. There was a deep 3 ft hole to the left, followed by a deep drop. Lot of boulders in that creek and off camber. Does not come across in the video and I sound a bit like a goof, which happens when you do not know the recorder is running.

    enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXpCBL1B-Xw

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    • Granted my truck is not on the road, still, I am betting my ponies on a constant tension clamp. The theory is that radiator clamps stretch when hot, and eventually may leak when cold as a result of the stretching. Supposedly, the clamps at the top of the McMaster-Carr page compensate for thermal expansion without losing their grip.http://www.mcmaster.com/#=11fauz1

      Ok, the link doesn't take you to the page I wanted. In the McMaster Carr search widow, type "Constant Tension", and you should be on your way.
      John

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      • Radiator hose clamps

        I second the motion on John's recommendation. The constant tension bolt type is a very superior design over the typical worm drive. When I used to run vessels commercially, we only used that style on the diesel engines. It was also always part of the daily inspection to physically check all hose clamps. A failed hose clamp could conceivably sink a boat!
        David

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        • Gates is making heat shrink style clamps. They're a heavy rubber material you slide over the end of the hose and then heat up. They shrink down to clamp over the hose. Supposed to provide a wide and consistent clamping force and due to the properties of the material when you heat up the engine they self tighten.

          I only managed to find one for the smaller upper hose, but have not had a chance to install it yet. I clamped it initially till I knew everything was good. Eventually I'll swap it out.

          That said, so far I haven't had that happen to my clamps, but now you have me worried, guess I should double check.

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          • Is it alright to share newly posted photos I come acoss of WC Carryalls? They don't come up often and I wont be trolling a image search for them.

            This for instance from the Norfolk Military Group.



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            • Should not be a problem.

              I post the craigslist adds partly for reference and partly because the machine may not be seen again in that form. Very often I contact the seller and ask for permission to post the pictures. Pulling pictures from other sites is a grey area and some pictures may be copywrited. So go ahead and post what you find, if you feel it is of interest or helpful to someone who is into a build or restoration.
              If you get permission so much the better. Several posts of this nature a week would take away from the thread but a post like this every couple of weeks helps keep the thread alive.

              Of interest - there is no roof bead or seam across the top of the cowl front portion of the "Money Pit Carryall" gotta ask why is that?
              Also you can see the rear tire on the drivers side above the running board. I have seen army photos of trucks with the spare in this location. I am starting to suspect this mod was done to quite a few army trucks while still in the motor pool.

              edit: boy those whip antennas go up a long way.

              Thanks
              Bruce

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              • That WC10 and others I linked to earlier was all picked up in Seattle last night.



                Pity it was not on the way to my place!

                Is it just the photo angle or are the WC10's longer than the WC53 in front of it?

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                • The Carryalls are the same size.

                  The older carryall at the rear of the trailer is taller. You can see the difference by looking at the area under the front door. Big question is what did the buyer pay for them and is it a builder or reseller?
                  The trucks are surprisingly unmolested. I see the original Army data still shows through the grime on the back. There was a big army base on the island where these trucks were picked up. Most likely they lived on the island for most of their lives. That is a great picture, the contrast makes for an interesting picture.

                  Update on my carryall. I have gone to T bolt clamps for the rad hose and changed one connection. The old connector was plastic and warped. I guess PVC does not like 180 degree water. I now have an aluminum connector in its place.

                  Next thing to deal with will be the leaky master cylinder. I will try filing the top and a couple of other tricks in an effort to get it to seal.

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                  • From the comments he posted he is not looking to sell but rebuild them. No mention of price except to say he thought it was reasonable for their rough condition.
                    https://www.facebook.com/groups/5987...4345323005023/

                    Here is another picture from last night.

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                    • Those photos are amazing. They literally make my heart flutter. What a glorious score and it sounds great that he is fixing them and not parting them. Such beautiful machines in any condition. Thank you so much for sharing this! I am so motivated to work on mine, I just wish other things in my life would give me a break.
                      1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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                      • Made an underhood mount for my front PowerCell for the headlights, horn, E-fan, turn signals, starter, etc. All the relays are self contained in this unit. I needed to protect it, hide it, ventilate it, and support it. I had to notch out the front battery box portion of the inner fender to fit it around the strut, so figured that area is already supposed to have something electrical and square in there. Overkill and a touch beyond original genre but I think within theme of the surrounding elements. 22 gauge, with 1/8" solid annealed steel rivets. I am learning at this considering this is the first #5-#80 rivets I've driven in my life, ever.





                        1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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                        • Box looks great! Where did you get your dimple dies?

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                          • Can't go past dimples and rivets. :)

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                            • Originally posted by bilfman View Post
                              Box looks great! Where did you get your dimple dies?
                              Originally posted by Gojeep View Post
                              Can't go past dimples and rivets. :)
                              Thanks guys!

                              The dies are from TMR Customs. They are top notch and machined from some good stuff and then heat treated and coated. They are a touch pricier than some other guys out there who just machine cold roll and then send it out. I've been using these against plasma cut edges and they've not gouged or scratched at all. Top notch product.
                              1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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                              • Fun with trucks and brake fluid leaks

                                A little further along in dialing in and testing the Carryall. There are a few leaks showing up and other minor issues. One large issue is the master cylinder leaks around the top. I think the fluid gets sloshed around more than a stock vehicle but the amount of leakage is absurd. I have had to top up the cylinder twice in 400 miles. The paint is now a real mess and expensive parts are starting to corrode. I drained the cylinder, tossed in some rags and a pile of magnets and flat filed the top mating surface of the casting. The rubber gasket was pulled and a 3/32 insert was made that sits behind the gasket. The lid now fits tighter and this modification has stopped leaks in some cases. I may upgrade to a new master cylinder that uses a aluminum body and plastic reservoir.

                                edit: five carryalls changed hands in Washington state in the first few weeks of this month.....maybe more? kinda neat to know they are still being dug up.
                                Attached Files

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