The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Gojeep]

Here is a mis-spelled one in LA for $19,990.
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...?lang=es&cc=mx

[Alxj64]

Here is a mis-spelled one in LA for $19,990.
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...?lang=es&cc=mx

A friend of mine called on that one; says the guy has zero understanding of the truck and refuses to even budge on the price.

[onetonwagon]

WC- 53 Body tag

Found a metal tag on pass door frame, about 1"X 2.5", with 8 numbers in two groups. 4249 5104 On the parts truck, same tag with 4249 8404 Anyone know what these numbers signify?
I recently talked with the last owners son about what history he knew about the truck. He told me his Dad bought it in the late 50's, took it on a fishing expedition up into BC, Canada, realized it only went 40-45 mph, and vowed to never do that again. The son said he drove it on their acreage as a boy. Must have been careful as the truck sheet metal is in good shape. The 53 was put in the barn in the early 60's, and never started again. He told me it ran very well at that time. (I didn't buy the 53 from them, but through a friend of the family) I believe he is telling the truth.
I have not tried to start it yet, nor even tried to roll the motor over by hand. After sitting for so many years, I would appreciate input about the best method to prevent damage from occurring when I get to this point. Anybody? Thanks in advance......

[Bruce in BC]

numbers interpreted

42 = 1942
49 = carryall
5104 = body number
8404 = body number

Pull the plugs, squirt in some oil, better yet spray in some fogging oil, change the oil in the pan before turning it over, new filter and oil in the filter canister, if there is one.

[Gojeep]

Found a metal tag on pass door frame, about 1"X 2.5", with 8 numbers in two groups. 4249 5104 On the parts truck, same tag with 4249 8404 Anyone know what these numbers signify?
I recently talked with the last owners son about what history he knew about the truck. He told me his Dad bought it in the late 50's, took it on a fishing expedition up into BC, Canada, realized it only went 40-45 mph, and vowed to never do that again. The son said he drove it on their acreage as a boy. Must have been careful as the truck sheet metal is in good shape. The 53 was put in the barn in the early 60's, and never started again. He told me it ran very well at that time. (I didn't buy the 53 from them, but through a friend of the family) I believe he is telling the truth.

Always great when you can find some history about a vehicle. :)
Glad you found the body or VIN on the spares truck as well. Any history on that one Mark?

[Gojeep]

I have not tried to start it yet, nor even tried to roll the motor over by hand. After sitting for so many years, I would appreciate input about the best method to prevent damage from occurring when I get to this point. Anybody? Thanks in advance......

This might be worth a read on trying to start it for the first time.

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...an-engine.html

[onetonwagon]

Thanks, Bruce for the info! I appreciate it. I have been cleaning up the interior of the parts truck for export, and finding a few clues to apply to my truck where things are either missing or done wrong. The rear floor is a good example. My truck's floor was removed and some wood butcher attempted to re-do it. Horrible job! Didn't have a clue. While the parts trucks floor is totally rotten and falling apart, it was original, and still had the skid strips to measure and photograph for when the time comes to do mine. I'm removing the factory fuel tank and was hoping I could use it. After steaming it, I found heavy rust and cancer on the top in places. Don't know if it can be saved or not, at this point. I will get pics of it after it's out, and maybe someone will chime in on that.

Hi Marcus....
Sorry, no history on the parts rig, except that it was rode hard, and put away wet, too many times. After seeing your fab skills, I'm sure you will be able to bring her back to suit your needs. I tried to read the info you suggested, but it wouldn't open. Thanks for trying....
Got your doors today. They are pretty good ones. I'll be sending pics to you.

[Gojeep]

Thanks, Bruce for the info! I appreciate it. I have been cleaning up the interior of the parts truck for export, and finding a few clues to apply to my truck where things are either missing or done wrong. The rear floor is a good example. My truck's floor was removed and some wood butcher attempted to re-do it. Horrible job! Didn't have a clue. While the parts trucks floor is totally rotten and falling apart, it was original, and still had the skid strips to measure and photograph for when the time comes to do mine. I'm removing the factory fuel tank and was hoping I could use it. After steaming it, I found heavy rust and cancer on the top in places. Don't know if it can be saved or not, at this point. I will get pics of it after it's out, and maybe someone will chime in on that.

Hi Marcus....
Sorry, no history on the parts rig, except that it was rode hard, and put away wet, too many times. After seeing your fab skills, I'm sure you will be able to bring her back to suit your needs. I tried to read the info you suggested, but it wouldn't open. Thanks for trying....
Got your doors today. They are pretty good ones. I'll be sending pics to you.

I changed the link for you.

Look at using a tank sealer kit like the KBS one. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fu...ealer-Kit.html

Lots of hotrodders here use it with good success.

[onetonwagon]

Good info, Thanks!

[Bruce in BC]

breaking in gears and breaking the bank

Pulled the rear diff cover because I do not like the amount of backlash at the pinion and I am at the 500 mile change the lubrication point. Not very impressed with what I found but I am also having a bit of a time getting my head around what I am seeing.
(1) Lots of black dirty oil and the magnet was covered in the black stuff, not sure if it is parkerizing or super fine ground metal. Not a chip, flake or any sign of gauling in any of the lubricant or in the poop on the magnet.
(2) pattern is weird. The whole tooth shows contact except for a 3/16 bit at the toe and maybe a 1/8 to 1/16 at the heel. Rounded at the toe, hard to tell at the heel.
(3) Backlash is dead perfect at .0075, the slop I feel at the drive shaft is pinion to side gear and a bit of axle spline wear.
(4) I did a repaint of the gear , spun the driveshaft with my hand loading the ring gear and the resulting pattern was picture perfect with nice rounded ends and it took up about 5/8 of the gear face.
So I packed it back together and forgot to take pictures- a decent diff shop about 3 hrs away from me was kind enough to answer some questions , told me it should be good, but wanted some pictures. Local retired diff guy said to leave it alone if it is not howling - but considering how noisy it is inside the cab, I have no clue if it is howling.
(5) axle never got so hot that I could not keep my hand on the cover.

Not sure where to go with it from here....a few more miles, pull the cover, take some photos and find out what a decent shop has to say, is what I suspect I will do.

Changed a diesel return line - I will try and explain that trick another day.
Also held my nose and ordered a HXW30 Holset turbo. Will fill you in IF it arrives. Brand new from Holset, I am not burning up all of my fuel- going to try for a bit more air before I do anything to the pump.

Take care
Bruce

[Gojeep]

Was it a new ring and pinion Bruce? Could be just part of the bedding in or polishing of the gears to start off with. Heat and sound are a good indicator that everything is right.

[Alxj64]

Was it a new ring and pinion Bruce? Could be just part of the bedding in or polishing of the gears to start off with. Heat and sound are a good indicator that everything is right.

Agreed. What you describe is normal and okay from my experience. Check the magnet again in another 500 to 1k and see what its like. Remember, big teeth tend to have a bigger BL feel when the ratio is deeper. The 5.14s in my Jeep and wife's Jeep feel like the pinion turns a mile before engaging. One more plus to running the automatic is it keeps the drivetrain loaded most of the time so that BL feel isn't as noticeable when running deep gear reduction. One thing to check though, I find 14B to do this a lot, is make sure the shafts are tight at the hub end. Sometimes, with a good flange gasket, the hub bolts can come loose and if you have play in the bolt holes you can get some motion and slop there. My Eaton used to do it. I am planning on drilled and safety wired bolts on mine, mostly for the look.

[Bruce in BC]

Gears

Brand new 4.88 gears from Yukon. I have seen cases where the gears were not hardened properly or perhaps not at all, I do not think that is an issue here. The gears tend to look over heated once run through the break in period and there is a lot of gauling. No sign of either when I inspected my gears- just the large pattern.
My second return line was leaking. Issues with the line getting squished at the ferrule and not sealing or getting cut through. This time I have switched up to air line and a combination of air fitting and standard hard line to flex fitting. I like how it went together, I did not like the old set up from the time it was installed.
Lots more to do yet.
Looking at a spot tracker to place in the vehicle.

Bruce

[Alxj64]

Made a horn button for mine... Using M37 clicker guts and a JD / IH Log Skidder steering wheel.

[Alxj64]

Anybody have pictures of how they did their kick panels under the dash? I need to mount some of my electronics and would like to go ahead and have a plan for my kick panels. My first design is just the portion above the existing body rib, but now after looking at some pictures of the SVSM stock truck gallery, I see the original panel is all one piece and am wondering if that may be easier / cleaner and then I can just notch in where I want the electronics box to recess to sit back into the side some... I also have sound deadening and thermal padding in mine plus rolled on lizard skin sheet metal vibration insulator from when Lee was building this truck.

Thanks!