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Power Wagon T-Shirts are now available for purchase on-line through the Store.
They are only $15.00 each plus shipping.
Shirts are available in sizes from Small thru 4X and are Sand in color.
Design/Logo is printed on the back of the shirts and the front is free of any designs.
Yep, Tcase drum parts should work out good. Going to make my own support bracket as I am flipping the setup over to the other side for the sake of my linkage routing.
The NWF flange was just a hair.. like 0.065" too small a diameter to fit properly inside the drum so I ended up turning down a sleeve and now its a nice tight hub-centric fit. This way I won't get any wobble and the bolts won't be the locating factor but rather just the shear and clamping factor. Going to drill the new bolt patterns into the drum to match the yoke, once I confirm which size I will be using for the driveshaft.
this might look period correct in the corner of a front windshield. Just scrape it a bit in front of the 35 hp number. i would go after it but the 15 dollar shipping charge is absurd......which saves me money, because I am not going to pay those absurd rates.
They weren't terribly expensive. Appear old style. Have Red back light for my aircraft theme but I didn't want to go too out there and go with the Vintage Gauges "bomber" style because its a step too far in my opinion. I wanted something that looked original style to keep with the "old" appearance. I do need to figure out something different regarding the vents. Then again, they may blend better once everything else is in the dash. They came with the truck. I need to fill in the giant hole where the previous owner had the hydraulic winch control knob. The toggle switch next tot he EGT / Boost combo gauge is going away and I think it will be replaced with either a wait to start lamp or a momentary switch that matches the rest of my toggles. Not sure what it would be for though. I am still trying to decide on the layout of controls. Here is my first benefit of the CAN system, less switches for more functions. Given that the inputs can be read as static or pulsed and are just a closed ground input, I bought a bunch of OD green-ish double through momentary switches. The smaller switches next to the shifter at the bottom are Cruise Control - Up is Set/Accel. Down is Cancel/Decel. The other switch is OD On/Off, in down toggle, and the up position I have not assigned yet. This transmission does not have a Tow/haul program in it being that it is an industrial TCM, therefore it is essentially always in Tow/Haul mode... Which is fine by me because it keeps the TC locked up for better pulling and firmer shifts. The two brass nut retained toggles are 3 position air valve switches that will operate the transfer case shift cylinders. Left switch is front output, right switch is rear output. When the switches are in center, the case is N-N, when the right is forward, thats 2H. I figure forward is the safest direction that way if something strikes the switches and forces a shift at speed, the case won't be trying to drop ranges but rather just engage the front output. The air system is also designed to default to a 2H shift position were it to lose all air.
Who makes that guage? Not that I am about to change my SW manifold pressure gauge, it is old school enough to look correct to me.
Cigarette type receptacles for charging modern stuff in the vehicle. Where do you put it and what is available? I do not have one but I do need one, or two or three.
Who makes that guage? Not that I am about to change my SW manifold pressure gauge, it is old school enough to look correct to me.
Cigarette type receptacles for charging modern stuff in the vehicle. Where do you put it and what is available? I do not have one but I do need one, or two or three.
Its a Westach combo gauge. Original application is aircraft. You can get them from Aircraft Spruce, and one of the diesel tuner sites for the Cummins crowd, Genos.
I'll post some pictures tonight of my intended charging ports, I am incorporating them into the back panel of my shifter box.
Who makes that guage? Not that I am about to change my SW manifold pressure gauge, it is old school enough to look correct to me.
Cigarette type receptacles for charging modern stuff in the vehicle. Where do you put it and what is available? I do not have one but I do need one, or two or three.
I drilled out and installed two in the area adjacent to the ignition switch, once on each side. For one I did actually put a lighter plug in it, figured you never know when you might want/need it, but picked one with an older look to it, for the other it just uses a rubber plug to cap it off and is fairly low profile.
So my wife wants to go away for a few days, four hundred plus miles. I convince her that we should maybe go for a night and works some bugs out. I made a flat bed out of some birch plywood and stuck it in the back of the Carryall. We loaded up the truck and went off into some decent but challenging areas I had not been to in two years. At the trail head I flipped the hubs and off we went. The road was quite overgrown and in a couple of places I had to get out to clear out the slide alder. I was very pleased with my progress but a bit surprised that the tires would toss a few rocks when we climbed out of cross ditches. I was surprised when the truck spun both rear tires while attempting to climb over a log. Oh crap something is seriously wrong here. I shifted all three transferase gears and was about to climb under the truck when I decided to check the hubs....they were disengaged. I was driving in two wheel drive and thought it was in four. That put a big happy on my face.
We woke up to rain and snow this morning in an area that seldom gets people or vehicles. It was nice to be sleeping in the carryall, even if the windows were all fogged up. It took about 15 minutes to get dressed , arrange the gear that had been stowed under the truck and head for home. Too wet and cold to do much else. those twin heaters took the chill off very quickly.
Take care
and thanks for some of those great pictures and posts in the last week.
That sounds like a great trip! I am jealous Bruce! I can't wait to take mine on camping trips and wake up in the morning and sit on the tailgate drinking coffee! Thanks for sharing that quick little adventure!
I was out of town for work this week so only progress was Saturday morning. I started to build my transfer case parking brake mount. The bolt pattern on the output bearing retainer is not symmetrical so you can't just clock the NP200 assembly where you want it. Because of my floorboard proximities and the location of where I need my pull rods and shifters to clear I needed to invert my setup so I had to build a bracket. Still need to source a few springs and such. I'll give VPW a call this week.
Out on a practice on an overgrown road. Some locals had a road block up, they were protecting the endangered frogs. They pulled the blockage down to let the truck in. The road was a lot like one of those english country roads with the hedge rows. Except there was only a two foot gap between the branches. I elected to back up for about 3/4 of a mile on one stretch. Although i have a back up camera I find it much easier to twist around and look through the back windows. You sure do not see much out of them. The reverse was a success, I could have turned around but figured "this is a practice, so practice" Plus I would not want to squish one of those tailed frogs that the hippies were protecting. on another trail I found a squashed dodge cab. i think i will grab the cab and hide it in my back yard. it should take a year or so before my wife finds it. I am on a clean up campaign, I announce that I have got rid of a car and the response is " I saw it going out but I did not know you had it" Why would I drag a crushed cab out of the bush? It has the waterfall portion of the dash intact. i was looking for that section when the cab was going back together. Might be something else worth grabbing as well.
Take care
Bruce
Looks good Alex
thinking about some 40" IROK tires, sure hard to get them up this way.
thinking about some 40" IROK tires, sure hard to get them up this way.
Please don't! Please please don't. They are not round, and are terrible on every terrain except for dry rock, and somehow asphalt is not considered dry rock when you go over 35 mph. They rot and crack terribly fast as well. Friends don't let friends buy Irok tires... or Thornbirds for that matter also.
I know its hard to find an R16 these days that is of any decent size. Look at the Goodyear MTR, they have a 38" Radial for an R16. It may be worth a consideration of changing wheels. I got my Hutchinsons for a song and a dance but when my XMLs are gone, I'll be ordering some custom built R20s so that I can continue buying large size tires.
A friend of mine has a set. I think they are 8 years old, no cracks and are fine on the highway. Bias plys too. Air down all the time, 10 lbs is not uncommon.
What I want is a 40 to 42 inch radial that is winter rated and decent off road. Round and not too noisy. 38 is too small, what I have at 39.5 is about as small as I want to go. There seem to be options in the 17" rim size. I do not like the looks of 20 inch rims and am not sure how they would perform off road. The military standard and default seems to be 20 inch theses days. The only reason I have even considered going that size is because of what is available as military surplus.
I am very happy with my XZLs except for the side wall cracks. Ride very well, low noise and seem to bight just fine off road.
I was looking at a set of 16 inch Alcoa rims but have taken a pass on them because of the tire issue.
So what on earth is out there that meets my needs? And does not cost 700 to a 1000 dollars each?
Bruce
Been at this on and off for months now. I need a sponsor!
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