The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Greg Coffin]

It's interesting that the front of the frame has been stretched to accept the winch, rather than using off-the-shelf WDX style frame extensions. I wonder how and why they did it that way?

[HRT5SLCFD]

Lower hinges

I guess that's one way not to use lower hinges.

[Bruce in BC]

I wondered who saw that lift gate.

I like the tailgate dropping down. With the gate down a person has a nice table to set up lunch or even cook food on, which I have done. I blew the transferase in one of my back up trucks yesterday. I was heading out when the NP203 started to make some minor noises and random clicks. I decided not to continue any further and turned the truck around. The truck sure did jump when the transfer case would bind up. Had that happen 10 or 12 times and the truck would slow and then sped up with each revolution of the transmission. Managed to get it out to a main road and have it towed home. I walked the truck out at a very sedate speed. Of course the truck is 6 inches too long to fit in the garage, even with the bumpers off.
I am running Amsoil in the transfer cases on the carryall. I am not sure if it is the result of the brand or simply because the fluid is synthetic but I am pleased with how cool the cases feel after a long run.
Toyo Mud terrains - I swear the new tires are quieter now that they have 200 miles on them. Not much more to report, I am working and training for SAR and with that and record rains I have not gone out in the bush as much as I would like.

Take care
I did fire an article off
Might be able to post pictures again at some point.
Bruce

[Alxj64]

Request for dimensions... I have lost the hood prop brackets for my WC53. Also, my firewall is now a different shape than the stock as well. I am now planning on re-making them but possibly setting them back a shallow amount and then placing a piece of Delrin or Acetel bar on the face and top as wear bars / lubricated bars so that its not a metal on metal action each time the hood is opened.

Can anyone draw up a sketch for some quick dimensions or snag a good picture of their hood support brackets? I want to make them look fairly original-ish but incorporate that wear bar.

Thanks!

Oh, and I built an air filter cannister for mine recently. I used some Aluminum Baking pans, some 0.040" AL sheet, and some 5/32" solid aircraft rivets.

[Gojeep]

Great job on the air cleaner. :)

[Bruce in BC]

hood props

Are you talking about the wire puzzle prop that clipped into a bracket on the fire wall or the earlier prop that is a bar that looks like most hood props used today?
Kevins prop looks and works well but is not the puzzle style.
Darn my alternator was over charging again, sure wish I could get my head around what the cause of that is.....

That canister is WAY cool.... now all you need is a water slide decal from an oil bath air cleaner and you will really twist some minds.

These guys have the right decal but I have never been able to contact them or get an email reply.
https://www.coupecustoms.com/product...cement-decals/

[Alxj64]

Thanks for the compliments guys. Trying to make stuff look "old" and new all at the same time.

I thought about stamping a piece with the K&N part number and riveting the placard to the canister. Dunno if it will add anything to the project.

As for the hood props, yea mine are the spring wires attached to the hood before the firewall and then there is supposed to be some weird tapered bracket that you can force the prop past it and close the hood. I am wanting to add some rub bars to those so that its not just metal on metal every time they go past.

[Greg Coffin]

I have a pair of them that came off my PW hood, including the stamped brackets that rivet to the hood. All you need is new rivets. They are yours for the asking.

[Desoto61]

I have the set from my hood as well, though not the hood brackets or the firewall bracket (still attached to the firewall). I ended up going with the earlier prop style for a few different reasons, not the least of which was an interference issue with the cruise module (which I still need to troubleshoot).

[Bruce in BC]

update and out takes

Managed to do a repair on my Colchester lathe and got the tool holder to pivot and lock. The lathe is far from quiet and I am not sure if there is anything wrong with the internals or not. The lathes have a reputation for being noisy.
I machined up an adapter for the new Holset turbo. This adapter helps connect the turbo outlet to the pipe that connects to the manifold. A simple looking piece that has a lot of dimensions that needed to be taken into consideration. I would post a picture but I do not have that feature yet. May have to write another article, to get upgraded to picture posting status.
I am saving up for a spare tire and wheel, which will end up costing around 800 to 900 bucks and then figure out where to put the thing. Most local trips will be done minus the spare but long distance trips will require one for piece of mind.
As some of you know I blew up the NP203 transfer case in my trash truck. I seem to be getting other jobs done while I avoid getting the trash truck into the shop.
Of course I sold off or gave away the spare transfer cases I have been tripping over for a decade. Slowly looking around for a cheap replacement.

take care
Bruce

Next summer I will build a carport for the Carryall - It is parked outside and will get rained on more this year than it has in the last 30 years.....

[Alxj64]

Managed to do a repair on my Colchester lathe and got the tool holder to pivot and lock. The lathe is far from quiet and I am not sure if there is anything wrong with the internals or not. The lathes have a reputation for being noisy.

Bruce, I am actually going to look at a Colchester this coming weekend to potentially replace my Atlas. During my research on the machines, I've read that the noise is often caused by mismatched belts, especially on the Student and Master series, and even more so on the 3 belt Triumphs. A way to check is to chalk line the belts and then run the machine and see if the lines begin to walk apart, if they do then you need to get a new set of matched belts otherwise the belts are fighting each other, and thus causing internal harmonic problems. If the noise is a gear noise, verify that the oil in the headstock is of the correct viscocity because the seals on those machines have all seem to have failed and pretty much every single one is leaking, including the one I am going to look at.

[Chris Olson]

Because the seals on those machines have all seem to have failed and pretty much every single one is leaking, including the one I am going to look at.

As I have found from working on lots of british gearboxes (David Brown Radicons and Land rovers etc) if the seals stop seeping oil......it's empty

[Alxj64]

Well Bruce, once again I follow in your path. Found me a nice Colchester lathe to park next to my Carryall. I put a deposit on it and stole some parts off of it to render it useless until I can go back and pick it up. Its a Triumph 7 1/2 with a 5HP on it. Should be plenty hoss.

[Chris Olson]

Nice Lathe.. even has a quick change tool post

[Bruce in BC]

What a beautiful lathe

That baby should make anything. In a pinch you can mill stuff too. Great score, you are the man Alex, Mine is a 9" Student model, 1953 if memory serves, one of these days I may pick up a 4 jaw for the thing.
Here is a rare photo of a WC53 at the Trinity test site. It shows up at 28:14
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_9KnjNtwlA.
I put another regulator in the alternator - it charges a tad lower but is still over 14.5 volts and closer to 15 at times. Either I change the whole alternator or pick up the voltage feed to a different spot to see if it makes a difference. I am using the same feed line that Chev uses. Just replaced the usable link with a 30 amp fuse. No clue what the issue is.

Bruce