The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Alxj64]

Alex, I used a set of M37 lights and brackets on my 6x6 and the brackets bolt right up to the frame, easy as pie.

Looks really clean Greg, thing is, I don't have any brackets at all and will need to make some. Those actually look like Gama Goat Lamps, not M37, I may end up with those if my Cat-eye lamps aren't bright enough, but I also wanted reverse lights because part of my CANbus system allows me to remotely turn on my reverse lights for cargo loading, etc. Plus given I plan on driving this thing a lot, R-lights will have use in parking lots and stuff where people expect to see them as a warning of "don't walk behind me.

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In other notes, this is what I get for opening my mouth elsewhere...

In another thread, I mentioned that "Ohh no, this used to be a Carryall"... and magically the truck is quickly on epay with said information.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112915568398?ul_noapp=true

[jim lee]

I've been thinking about putting a couple small flood lights on the back of mine as "reverse" lights. Possibly use a couple old blackout headlights? I wonder how to setup a reverse switch though. Having the old stock transmission and all.

-jim lee

[Desoto61]

I've been thinking about putting a couple small flood lights on the back of mine as "reverse" lights. Possibly use a couple old blackout headlights? I wonder how to setup a reverse switch though. Having the old stock transmission and all.

-jim lee

That's basically what I used for my backup lights. I did not wire them up to a switch though I think I ran a wire to be able to do so, but I also have bed lights so it's not as vital, and I could easily leave the trans in reverse with the engine off and the key on and get the same effect.

As for a switch probably a bracket to hold a contact switch in a location to get triggered by the gear shift lever. If you were really fancy I'm sure there's some way to install a bung to actually put one in the transmission like a more modern version.

[Greg Coffin]

Alex, I used M37 light buckets and brackets, but I bored out the aluminum M37 light doors and installed plastic Gama Goat lenses into them. They are much more visible than the original style M37 lights, which is what I was trying to do. If you have 3 sockets in your bucket, you could use the top 2 for park and brake/turn, and the bottom strip for white backup lights. All in one housing.

[jim lee]

That's basically what I used for my backup lights. I did not wire them up to a switch though I think I ran a wire to be able to do so, but I also have bed lights so it's not as vital, and I could easily leave the trans in reverse with the engine off and the key on and get the same effect.

As for a switch probably a bracket to hold a contact switch in a location to get triggered by the gear shift lever. If you were really fancy I'm sure there's some way to install a bung to actually put one in the transmission like a more modern version.

That's a thought. My gearbox is all over the workbench as we type. It would be a good time to check on this.

-jim lee

[DavidGB]

This topic has been discussed before. Do a search. Some very nice work by MaineSS for example.

[Alxj64]

This is what I came up with for my own version of the lamp mounts. I made the second one to have the trailer connector support. I'll end up building a box cover around that once its wired to protect it from rocks and crap that the tires will probably chuck on gravel roads and such. I ran out of my nice clean A50 HRPO so these are made from some ugly drops of Hot roll A36 that was floating around the garage... err, okay. The back yard behind the garage. I actually ended up increasing the hole size where the cables come through because I am converting the harness from the 3 separate plugs over to a 3 plug Amphenol seal connector. Will give it a good Mil-spec look where the harness is visible under the chassis.

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[Greg Coffin]

Nice brackets. I'd like to see how the Amphenol connector goes into the light bucket. Are you using the B/O strip for the backup light?

[jim lee]

How did you cut the sheet metal? Laser? Plasma?

-jim lee

[Bruce in BC]

Diesels sure run better when they are warm than cold, the difference is quite noticable. I have to pull out on to a highway about a block from my home. now that the area is getting developed the traffic is a pain in the butt. Pulling out into the flow is quite the challenge. But it is even more challenging when the truck engine is cold. I am not sure what the power difference is but the truck pulls into traffic and accelerates and runs way smoother when warm.
This new site is not as easy to use as the old one. I have to sign in every time I hit the bookmark, it is much more pleasant when you hit the bookmark and can get in where you left off. Number of hits per day has fallen off as well. I guess I need to take more pictures when I break stuff :)
That bracket looks stock to me, nice work as usual.

[Desoto61]

I see the same thing, but if I refresh the page or click on the forum tab, the page re-loads and shows me logged in just like on the old site.

As for the diesels mine seems peppier when it's colder, but I'm not sure that doesn't have to do with air. I'd like to try and re-locate my air intake and better shield it from the engine heat, as once I get her good and warm I think it just pulls too much hot air from under the hood, but it's one of many projects on the back burner for the next few weeks.

[Alxj64]

Nice brackets. I'd like to see how the Amphenol connector goes into the light bucket. Are you using the B/O strip for the backup light?

After further review, its just best to integrate them into the pigtail. I fear the amphenol connector could be damaged too easily if bulkheaded to the lamp housing. And yep, the BO strip is intended for my Rev lights since I have that feature easily integrated into my transmission and in my wiring system. Actually, the key FOB system that I just got in the mail will allow me to hit a two button sequence and I can remotely activate my rev lights to use for loading and unload stuff, etc. Same for interior lights, eventual door locks, and other stuff like remote start :)

How did you cut the sheet metal? Laser? Plasma?

-jim lee

Hypertherm Plasma cutter, and then bent it in my manual shop press with a SWAG Offroad press brake and a set of dies that I made for doing tight radius bends.

[Bruce in BC]

Boy things are dead around here. we were getting close to 10,000 views a month and now we are getting less than 10% of that.
I have been driving my carryall and adjusted the valve clearance after the first 500 miles since I installed the new head. I also put in a new fan sensor but have yet to get the truck warm enough to see if it works. I need to get the truck on a long steep climb and see how hot the water temps can get. The fan sensor is down low near the inlet and the engine temp sensor is up high, these are the stock locations, not sure it all makes sense. I have a mess of things to do to the truck before I take it on a few holiday trips, next big issue is what to do with the spare tire. It is headed for the rear at the moment, mounted on some sort of swing out frame.
I did make a mess on the engine. It is covered in oil. One of the gaskets on the valve cover popped off, but only where it dimples in for a head bolt. Pretty hard to see , but it sure can leak fluids.
engine will need a clean up PDQ.

edit : how about that the new temp sensor switch works, it did blink on and off a few times as it shut down but that happened only the first time, other two tries it was either on or switched off with a clean break..

[Alxj64]

Bruce,
I'm jealous of you getting to drive yours. Currently mine is back into two very large heavy pieces so that I can finalize the firewall and floor installation. Riveted the firewall in yesterday using some solid steel 1/8" rivets on a 1.5" spacing for the full perimeter except for where I needed to weld the cylinder head dimple in. My engine is offset to the passenger side so that the steering column could clear the rear-geartrain.

[Desoto61]

The fan sensor is down low near the inlet and the engine temp sensor is up high, these are the stock locations, not sure it all makes sense.

That's how I installed mine. The gauge sensor near the outlet, so you know how hot the engine is running, but the fan sensor is in the inlet horn so that the fans only come on if there isn't enough air flow over the radiator without them. Still need to play with the switch point, but I also want to do your pulley mod and try and mount a larger fan too. Right now I have two smaller fans which is all I could fit.

[Bruce in BC]

Got a leaky injector. I need to clean off the block and run the truck to see where the leak is. I think it is the return line. Those screws are quite small and I am leary of breaking them. It may be a vibration issue that caused it to back off or some such thing. had the truck out again and in the bush. it is nice not to have to hit the fan switch - it now comes on on its own. I aired down and the truck has a decent ride on 20lbs but even better at 14. That is how I found out I had a leak - while driving in the bush with the cab window open I could smell diesel - sure enough there was a bit down the side of the block by the number one injector. I have a line on a early carryall out in Manitoba. Body only but it looks better than decent. I may phone about it and see what he wants for it.

take care out there
Bruce

Alex that looks good to me - you are getting there.