The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Greg Coffin]

Alex, what if you installed a couple gas struts to keep the lid up and out of the way when using it? Feel free to use this idea, as I have a favor to ask in a week or so :)

[Bruce in BC]

Swing out tire carrier. Hinge detail. Instead of using a spindle and bearing I went for a simple set up where one piece of DOM pipe slides into another. By doing it in this manner the tire carrier can be removed and all that is left is a receiver hole. With the spindle you end up with a greasy mess sticking up from the bumper. The DOM that is now part of the bumper has a slot machined into it. The carrier drops down into the DOM in the bumper and a bolt goes through the slot into the carrier. The bolt serves two purposes (1) it keeps the carrier in place if there was a roll over or accident (2) it acts as a stop and only lets the carrier swing out so far. The unit does not rattle and is easy to open and close.
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You can not see the bolt in this picture, the bolt and slot are on the back side of the bumper. There are also two grease nipples at the top and the bottom of the receiver tube to help keep things rotating and rust free.

[Bruce in BC]

Swing out tire carrier. Lock detail. On the bottom of the swing arm is a standard door striker pin. This striker pin locks into a DOT double safety door latch. To unlock it is a simple manner to pull on the knob that is at the centre end of the bumper near the licence. As an additional safety step a spring loaded latch locks the swing arm in place. The result works quite well, my wife has no issue unlocking the tire and swinging it out of the way. The tire weighs in around 185lbs. IMG_1635.JPGIMG_1636.JPG

[cgood]

Do you have any more pictures of the whole back bumper and swing out spare assembly?

[Bruce in BC]

I will see what I can do, what are you looking for in terms of photos? I have now had two requests to build someone a tire carrier, this is after they have seen mine, but with my garage size and equipment, the math does not work in my favour. A bigger shop, a metal bandsaw would make a difference.

[Bruce in BC]

image_12957.jpgimage_12958.jpg To drill the hole in the bumper I used this method that keeps things in line and prevents the blade from walking and breaking the centre guide. You can drill compound shapes with this. The bottom piece of the bumper is flat with a 45 degree angle breaking the edge. With the guide clamped in place the hole saw walked through the 1/4 steel and 45 degree metal without any issues.
This shows the swing arm closed. It does not look like it in the photo but the vertical face on the swing arm and the bumper line up. Paint? I am fooling around, at some point it will get wet sanded and then clear coated, but not any time soon.
edit: The top was drilled first and then the guide was clamped on the bottom and then drilled from the bottom. A 1/4 hole was drilled from the top through the bottom plate to act as a guide and index point.

[Gary Weaklend]

When working on my truck in 2000 I saw a Yellow Carryall in Fairfield that the guy rounded the front of his battery box to match the "rounded" contour of all other areas of Carryalls. If you look at the battery box it is the only body panel that is 90 degrees. I liked the rounded corner (like Bruce's) but in the end I decided to eliminate the battery on the side and put it under the hood where there is a recessed area to mount a battery. It works for a flathead L6 but not sure if it will work for a 4BT or V8. I also purchased an extra bracket and bent running board from VPW and cut the board down to fill in the battery box area. Here are some pictures of what I did for locating the battery under the hood and welding up the passenger side.


Batterylocation.jpgBatteryboxJpg3.jpgBatteryboxJpg2.jpgBatteryboxJPG1.jpg

[Alxj64]

Gary, thats some smart thinking on the box. Very clean work. I am unfortunately committed to my battery location and need both of them to crank my ISB170 and run all of my other weird electronics.

I am steeling a bit of ideas from all of ya'll though. I got the first panel of the box made. I cut it out and a kid at the end of my street has a louver press at work so I had him stamp me some rows that matched a scaled appearance of the hood side louvers. I'm going with aluminum and going to put a key lock in the side of it for now. I'm trying to make it look like it was built this way when the truck was made and not be something that was built after the fact.

I've also been trying to figure out what is wrong with my transmission. I have a weird rattle / Growl from the Torque Converter when it is at lockup pressure in 4th and 5th gears. Stupid Allison. I attached a link to a video.


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[Matthew Welcher PWA]

I have never heard an Allison make that noise before? If by chance you pull it manually into a lower gear not allowing it to go into 4th or 5th no noise right?

[Alxj64]

No doors or gates were popped open accidentally during the photography of this "trail" ride. Ha ha. No visible frame flex, ALL suspension.

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Also, truck got a ride on the alignment rack... Everything was so close to where it should be we didn't even touch anything!

Just need to isolate this weird engine shake. I am going to ditch my internal wheel balance and go with road force balance and a set of centramatics and see what happens. IMG_20180829_210319_616.jpg

[Bruce in BC]

That is some serious flex, looks like you nailed it on boxing the frame and your choice of suspension. I am running beads in my tires, seems to work really well. I am noticing a vibration at 60 miles an hour to 65 miles an hour that was not there when I had the tires installed last year. Also I have a clunk in the front end that shows up while turning, it only shows up on occasion and is quite annoying. So far no luck finding it and I have had the truck jacked up and pivoted the front end but never replicated the clunk. I may need to mount a grow pro under the frame and see if I can catch what the issue is.
Went hiking yesterday and took out the Carryall, dropped the air pressure to twenty pounds instead of the usual 35. It may ride better off road but I can feel the truck working more when its on the pavement.
Bet you are having fun, looks like a camping trip is in the works. When are you taking it on the Rubicon? :)

[Alxj64]

Bruce, you need to take more pictures of these adventures of yours! I mean, seriously, I took a photo op of an alignment rack? I'm going overboard and you;'re hanging in the galley!

Question though, how much weight of beads are you running inside of your tires? I think mine run pretty smooth and its my weird engine shake issue that is making mine drive funny.

[jim lee]

Alex, anything scrape or rub at maximum turn and suspension compression? Is there maybe a balance shaft in the engine? I never looked closely at your driveshafts, but are they like "normal" and have the slider on the tranny output shaft? Or like the original and have it in the middle of the shaft?

P.S. Its looking great! I bet your pretty excited. I know I would be!

Paint your extra radiator black. Its distracting.

-jim lee

[jim lee]

P.P.S. Got mine back on the road about an hour ago. (Fingers crossed!)

P.P.P.S. Alex is right, Bruce needs to get on this picture thing. Bruce, you have a smart phone?

-jim lee

[jim lee]

P.P.P.P.S. Alex, I JUST noticed your licence plate. That's cool! I need that for mine! Or "NOTAJEEP". :)

-jim lee

[Alxj64]

Jim,
I know, right?!!? Bruce ya need to get on that picture sharing level stat!

No balance shaft in the engine that I am aware of, so yea she gonna rock some, but its not an RPM related wobble, its a road speed or harmonic 1/2 second interval shake wobble. The engine "rocks" back and forth like it is loading and unloading over and over through some sort of whipping action or torsion action. Its not a "shake" or vibration but a low frequency "rock" that gets going to the point it gets the suspension and tires rocking. They feed each other so I just need something to dampen or disrupt the energy, whether it be a strut bar / torque arm on the engine or even changing the durometer rating of one of the mounts. I just got my new strut reservoirs in too, so I am going to see if I can't change my front suspension dampening rates and that might help things out too. These things are too cool.

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[Bruce in BC]

Ok I will do better at the picture thing. My wife just looked at the ferry to Bella Coola. it is possible to go to port Hardy on the north end of Vancouver Island catch a ferry to Bella Coola and then drive a road to the inland. Not sure if this will happen or not. I like company on trips like this, makes vehicle issues a lot easier to handle, not that I have had any issues that could not be dealt with on the road or when I get home. I am attempting to build a headliner over the front seating area - I will post some pictures of that later today. Got house work to do and I am having a relapse which makes things a bit tougher to do.
I sure like those struts, makes me tempted to do another build. Be fun if I sold this truck for a couple of hundred grand and could order in all the parts for a new build on the same day. only way I could do another one. Some engines have a shock hooked up to them on the side - might be with a try just to see if it makes a difference. That rattle is weird, it will be interesting to find out what the issue is.
As an aside - if you ever figure out what a better injector is for a 4bt please pass it on. I see lots of sales for ones with bigger orfices but I would like ones with smaller orfices and maybe a better pattern. She still blows smoke under load. Might be time for compounds. I am looking for a water air cooler and the fuel lines that go with it..................colder air but more weight.

take care
Bruce

edit: its my birth day....think I will go back to bed :)

[Todd M]

Enjoy the day. Happy birth day