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The WC53 Carryall thread .

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  • I suppose every shop does it differently, but the proper way to do it is to form it while the tube is being made, so it all cools together as a unit.
    Yahoo "heavy duty crossover steering arms" and you'll see a lot of trick stuff, much of it for Jeeps but you'll get some good ideas and even see prefabbed parts for a multitude of lift kits and steering modifications.

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    • Update on drag link , tie rod steel

      Most companies seem to be using mild steel . 1018 -DOM-1 1/4 x 1/4 wall . They bend the rod cold . The only area of concern is that the bend needs to occure far enough away that the tapping does not create a stress riser by cutting into one side of the tube more than the other. Most steering arms seem to be made from mild steel too. I did find that NWF made a pile of arms from 4140 .
      So I am not sure what I will do about creating a new steering rod . The chances of finding one to fit my application is slim .
      I have found out that a few folks have rotated the starter to get more clearance . This may be a better option than mucking around with cross steering .

      Bruce

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      • When I made the cross over steering on that Van (the van steering box movement was side to side, the W axle. steering arm was front to rear) I cut, rotated, shortened and re-welded the arm. It worked fine until the first time I hit a bump. It wrapped itself into a very perfect "U"....
        After straightening it, I took it to a fab shop that repairs crashed Semi trucks. The welder there was a maestro! He hot rolled a 3/16" plate over the rod to make an outer skin (tube in a tube) welded it all together with 270,000 psi rod, tempered the steel and it worked perfectly for a decade, raced that truck and frequently had it 4'-6' off of the ground. So with the right welder it can be done, but it's one of those, don't try this at home deals. If you find someone with a good understanding of metallurgy you can safely build just about anything....= )

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        • Progress on the motor mounts

          I am not boxing the frame . The stock Dodge cummins frame in the early trucks is not boxed . The motor mounts attach to a cross member that is riveted to the frame . I do not like having a fixed crossmember under the oil pan . It makes accessing things difficult and time consuming .
          My motor mounts will attach to the frame and have a crossmember bolted between them . With this design I am not going to tweak the frame and I get a place to mount the tube shocks and it the steering box gets braced too . It will be possible to unbolt the cross member and remove the pan with the block in place. I am far from done with this but I should have one side completed this week . 1/4 inch tube and plate with access holes cut in strategic places . Hopefully it comes out looking clean . The mounting point is aprox in line with cylinder #2 or a little aft of that .
          At present I have a stock Dodge trannie mount . I am considering using the early style of mount that consists of 2 mounts with rubber on the top and bottom. Sort of a Chev style .
          I considered some liquid Ford mounts but they run 75 bucks apiece up this way .

          Pictures this week .

          Bruce

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          • Tools

            Hey Bruce,
            Do you happen to know of a sheet metal tool seller in lower mainland?
            With Christmass around the corner I need to drop a few hints here and there.

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            • Good question

              KMS has some stuff - shot bags and what not .
              Snap on used to have some of the better body hammers & dollys . I have a mix of proto and snap on . Some guy offered me 300 bucks for one of my old snap on hammers- I bought it at a yard sale for 2 bucks .
              Renalto ? may be the guy to ask . Marty over on The Power Wagon page should be able to point you in his direction .
              I was on a roll tonite and got called home . I am spending the whole weekend upgrading for SAR. So much for working on my truck.

              Bruce.

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              • Yahooooooooo

                The drivers side motor mount is done and it looks good . The starter can be removed without removing the motor mount. I have started the passenger side and am about 10% in .
                Driving the kids sucks up time . Add my Search and Rescue training and my doctors recommended hiking and it is tough to squeeze in much time on the truck . Generally I get 30 minutes in every day of the week . Monday nights are booked as build time and I get in 3 hours minimum on mondays .
                Hopefully I will take less time and fewer pieces. The drivers side took 6 pieces of 1/4 inch plate and a lot of heating and bending tossed in . I tacked and test fit the piece and would then finish weld and check for fit again. it fits like a charm , but I spent two hours grinding the darn thing as I adjusted each piece to fit .
                Just spent 30 minutes in my local parts store . He looked under Cummins , Case but could not find the motoer listed anywhere . I was after a pan gasket and rear seal . I guess I get to chase one down in Vancouver.

                take care

                Bruce

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                • Pogress

                  Hey Bruce
                  Hows progress on the WC?

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                  • progress is way too slow for my taste

                    This project has fought me the whole way . I do have the motor mounts done but have the crossmember that goes between the mounts to complete . I am happy with the mounts that bolt to the motor . The mounts look good but are way too complicated for my tastes . I can get the starter in and out and the electrical connections clear the mounting bolts so I did some planning before building them . Once the cross member is done I will shoot some photos and mail them to Gordon and post a teaser shot here. I have another disc for him too but it is a hodge podge of shots . I might just mail it too him and let him sort out what he might wish to use.
                    A lot of simple things keep smacking me. The stock trans rubber mount almost works - but not quite right . Ditto with the floor it is just a tad closer than I wanted . I will need a custom drive shaft to the front low pinion dana 60 . I could get away without one but under full drop I am pretty sure the driveshaft is bottoming out .
                    I am fighting builders burn out. I know better than to piece a vehicle together but I kinda fell in love with the ugly brute and wanted to build it with certain parts . Of course I now have a better design and combination of parts that I would use in another build . At present it is in my head and that is where I hope to leave it .
                    i need to move the truck to another spot in the school shop . This will give me a new look at the truck and I should get my second wind. At least for a month or so .

                    You take care.
                    and thanks for asking
                    Bruce
                    We got over 10,000 hits on this thread . Too bad others do not post their WC53 shots here . The trend seems to start their own thread and at some point never post again . silly really . Even a historical shot of one they have for sale would add a record of what truck is where.

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                    • Hmmm, dare we ask Phil to add a WC53 Registry to his huge pile of tasks?

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                      • ??? HHmm..

                        Maybe if we ask really nicely he will find the time....

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                        • WC53 registry ?

                          Personally I do not think we need one .There are a lot of great builds and field shots out there. I would like to be able to find them without too much effort. here seems as good a place as any

                          I am messing with my trans mount . I am using 2 Anchor 2469 Chrysler motor mounts on a 12 inch plate. This may or may not work but the concept is sound and i have worked with variations of thisidea on stock trucks. All I need to figure out is how to limit the transfercase from twisting excessivley or ripping the tailshaft housing off the trans.

                          Bruce

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                          • A registry is simply an accounting of trucks by serial numbers. It tells us how many trucks out of the 8,400 WC53's still survive, what sequence of serial numbers survived best (early or late).
                            The Registry could possibly be linked or housed right here at this site.
                            The Dodge Sweptline Registry is linked by tabs to the DTA Sweptline site. For those who find the WC53 Registry on their own, this thread would be linked from the registry. I think it would be a win win. More traffic, more information, helps this site grow and makes more people aware of Gordon's Forums and the PWA.
                            The only question is who is brave enough to approach Phil...ha!ha!
                            BEFORE, that is done however we would need to get Gordon's input and see if it is feasible or even something that fits with his overall vision of this site.

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                            • Ah , I see what you mean.

                              A WC53 registry would make sense.

                              engine mounts 3/4 done and tested.
                              trans mount 3/4 done and tested
                              transfercase mount 0 done and at a loss what to do

                              Bruce

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                              • Time for a holiday

                                Hey Bruce,
                                its time for a holiday, take a few days off and when you get back you'll know exactly what to do.
                                When I get frustrated I turn the lights out in the shop and go visit the PWA forums.

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