The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

know what you mean Rob

Once I was putting a fully detailed hot rod together with a high end finish allready done . 20 grand in paint not counting the darn body work or prep .
The front window would not fit . The body got tweaked while getting moved around and welded up . Everything else was checked for square. I had to get out the porta power and twist the body about 4 inches . After the body bounced back the window fit . I cracked the paint in one spot . This was hidden by the window viser.
Got a similiar issue with my carryall. One of the front fenders is a bit droopy when compared to the other . To look right the fenders need to sit dead flat . I do not think I will get there with my passenger fender.

Bruce

Seat riser is not done yet

[Rob S]

Droopy Fenders

Same problem left hand side looked fairly good but right hand side was at least 1" lower on the outer edge. finally put the support bracket in the press and bent it out a bit, put it all back together and they now look pretty damm good.
Cheers
Rob S

[Bruce in BC]

Seat riser exposed

I need to cut out one piece at the back of the seat riser and do some grinding and the seat riser is more or less done . Well those two little items and I need to install a couple of access holes in the transfercase cover so that I can fill the cases with fluid . Betyah that will add about another hour to the build . I am not sure if I will have a flip down door on the front and use the area for storage or just flip the seat forward to access stuff . The riser is a bit larger than stock but not by much . Considering the original one was torched out I am working by braile on this item .
The floor under the seat riser will need work and the area under the drive line brake cover needs finishing too . I figure about 2-3 hours to fab and weld this area up . Gotta scrape some grease off the bottom of the floor pan before welding .


take care

Bruce

[Rob S]

Inner Fender problems

Have a problem. Just bought an inner fender for the left hand side for th WC26. It looks right bolt holes etc all in right place, however from top to bottom about 2" too big there is no way it will work and when compared with the right hand side the height difference is obvious. The question is, is this actually for a 1/2 tonner but a different model or is it from a different model all together any thoughta appreciated.
Cheers
Rob S

[Bruce in BC]

I have no clue Rob

It sounds to me like you may have an inner fender for a later model but to be honest I have no idea what you have . How about posting a picture of it and if possible the other side as well . Jake has the same model as you and may be able to help in some way .
Today I managed to put 2 more hours in on the Carryall. I tossed a super magnet in the rear diff and secured the diff cover and finished welding and trimming the seat riser . I have a small bit of floor to deal with and then it is on to the transmission tunnel .
It is hard for me to beleave that I was working on the transmission cover almost 5 weeks ago . I quit and went to the seat riser because I did not like how the transmission cover was going together . I am not sure if I will build a new tunnel or continue wrestling with the old one .

take care

Bruce

[Rob S]

Inner Guards

Hi Bruce
Here are the guards, the multi coloured one is the original right hand side. The green one is the supposed correct one I bought for the left hand side. Nothing more to say! What does it really belong to???

[Bruce in BC]

Here is a shot of a WC53 splash apron

This is a picture of my inner fender . I placed a 12 inch ruler on the splash apron .
What is weird is my inner fender had the same mix of colours as yours, almost a twin . it has since gone for a ride in my derusting and depainting tank and a few tiny cracks where welded closed .

take care

Bruce

[Rob S]

Inner Fender

Thanks Bruce
However now I am even more confused as your 3/4 ton fender is nothing like the one ive got. however it is definately not right for my 1/2 ton carryall. Is there anyone out there that can post a pic of their 1/2 ton inner fender no matter what model!
thanks
Rob S

[Jake]

Hey Rob,
This may or may not help, it's a shot of the drivers side inner fender as seen over the tire.

[Rob S]

Inner Fender

Thanks jake
That helps a lot from your photo the drivers side is basicly identical to the passenger side. So now I had better start making one
cheers
Rob S

[Bruce in BC]

Clearancing my firewall

Almost got away without doing this but I figured 1/4 inch clearance was a tad tight for a 3 inch exhaust pipe so I went searching for something that could be added to the firewall and look as if it was stamped in here from the factory. I went to the local stores looking for a wock and even tried to bend something up on my own . The results where kind of tacky . So I hit on another plan and ripped a 5 inch stack of an old Dodge I new about . I split it in half lengthwise and then halfed it again into quarters . Between the two quarters I added one inch of 12 guage and welded it both sides and ground it down to flush . I then beat on it because it looked to pretty in it hand filed stage . And made the template up because there was no way to scribe the firewall using the exhaust dimple .

[Bruce in BC]

Checking for fit and tacking in the dimple .

The dimple looks bigger than it is . The dimple is about 1.5 inches deep and clears the pipe by about 1 inch all around . When the fire wall was cut it bowed about 3/8 to 1/2 when looking from top to bottom. I guess this was a stress built in from manufacture . There was no welding or patchwork done anywhere near the bow. I will try and straighten out the bow as I tack in the dimple . The exhaust pipe sits a bit higher when installed and needs to be cut and spliced to fit . I hope to blend in the bead and welds so that the dimple does not have the harsh edges so many modified firewalls have.
There is no changes to the footroom or floorboards with this dimple . If anything there may be a tad more footroom than stock .

Take care

Bruce

(edit ) Take a look at the left edge of my firewall and up thread look at jakes inner fender . I swear both of them have the same green and black paint splattered on top. This colour combination must have been popular or darn cheap at some point .

[Bruce in BC]

got in another 2 hours

Managed to paint 4 calipers , a window crank , master cylinder and the emergency brake hump . It took about 20 minutes to sand blast the stupid cover and another 20 minutes to clean this and that with the wax and grease remover . I mixed the epoxy first and let it kick while I was getting the parts ready . It is amazing how much time gets sucked up into the little stuff . I am losing track of parts so I am bolting a few things back together. Considering that the axles are done for the time being the calipers may as well be bolted to them and not lying around in a box . I nailed the master cylinder with paint because it was not rusty but would be if I left it alone any longer . Ideally the calipers and master cylinder would have been coated with a high temp cermanic coating . I live 100 miles and a ferry ride away , add to that the time it takes to rebuild the calipers and I could not see myself going to the expense of ceramic coating those parts.
The epoxy paint has held up on my hot rod calipers . It should be fine on the carryalls .

take care

Bruce

[Bruce in BC]

Got another hour in

I spent the time welding and fitting in the divit . The fire wall cross bead was blended in to the divit by pie cutting the bead and then tapping it down with a body hammer and then welding it back together . It worked great. Lots of tweaking and tacking to do on it before welding everything home.
Do not , I repeat do not open the friction modifier oil that comes with a rebuild kit for a powr lok in your car . Do not open it in your house . Do not open the darn stuff in your garage. We are talking smell here . We are talking stink . We are talking cloying , stinking stink stink . This stuff is foul . I am serious about this . I was smart enough to open the container in my shop to soak the friction discs . I moved the container out of the shop about 20 minutes after opening it and the smell took about 10 hrs to disapate. I stuck the container way out back and now that area reeks.
I am going to use an old trick and stick some vasaline under my nose when I build the locker, cause the darn friction modifier smells worse than something dead.

Best regards
Bruce

[Jake]

Things are obviously progressing Bruce, it's looking good.
When are you in Vernon? I have the windshield frame sitting in my shop waiting for you, I just realized that it's missing the center piece that divides the two parts of glass. I'll do a search and try to locate it for you.
I went over and talked with Ingvar who lives in my neighborhood and he showed me his Volvo Sugga, this thing is in pristine condition. We decided we should park the trucks together at the next Vernon Car Show.