The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

Down pipe on a Carryall

This is the down pipe section of the exhaust system . Basically it is the Ford exhaust pipe sectioned and welded to fit the Carryall. I suspect that any 3 inch OEM stainless exhaust system could be hacked up to fit . The pipe is roughed in and has some tweaking left to get it to work correctly . A support off the engine and hangers need to be engineered.

[mcinfantry]

This is the down pipe section of the exhaust system . Basically it is the Ford exhaust pipe sectioned and welded to fit the Carryall. I suspect that any 3 inch OEM stainless exhaust system could be hacked up to fit . The pipe is roughed in and has some tweaking left to get it to work correctly . A support off the engine and hangers need to be engineered.

imo, id move the flex to a horizontal area, not vertical. the flex is on the h plane, the stainless joint flexes that way, not by getting longer shorter. although i may be wrong

[Bruce in BC]

The cummins shakes side to side

What I was trying to do was place the flex joint at what is known as its momentary point . Unfortunitly I placed it a bit high . I may end up replacing the present flex joint with one 12 inches long and in doing so the flex joint will intersect the momentary point . The momentary point would line up with the front motor mounts and the rear transmission mount. It is at the momentary point that there should be the least amount of movement. The other alternative is to splice in a second flex joint about 12 to 18 inches below the first one. If I do this the rest of the system will be quite isolated from the engine vibration .
If this set works then I will be quite happy . I do not anticipate that I will need to change the system but what works on paper very often does not work in practice . If it fails I will add and subtract sections as necessary.

Best regards

Bruce

Your project looks like it is coming together very nicely . You are on the down hillside now .

[ambec]

Starter

Okay, Guys
I finally got the starter off that the flood got, BUT, there has got to be an easier way. Horn had to go, oil filter had to go, two pounds of flesh had to go, as the bolts were WAY tight, and I swear, if I hadn't had a 5/8 wrench from the 1930s, I still wouldn't have gotten it off. The plate had some strange markings, so if anyone can give me the correct starter number, I am just going to bite the bullet and get another one that I know works, as there is no way I am going to put it on and then pull it back off. I think I am going to cut some groves in the bolt heads and use a long screwdriver to button it up. Any other ideas are much appeciated.. Got the dash all primed, pained up and waiting for dry time.
Cheers,
Eric

[Bruce in BC]

Allen head screws or socket head

Forget the screw driver slotted bolts . I throw the straight head bolts and screws away when ever I have the chance . The darn things strip. A six point socket head or allen is the way to go . You can use an allen key or driver to remove the bolt . Chase the old thread holes and use some lead free anti seaze and things will be much easier next time . And yes there will be a next time , but if you make it easier to work on you will work on it less. Once i made my 30 lb axle slide hammer I stopped having stuck axles . Instead of an hour the axles pop out in 30 seconds .

Bruce in Portland
looking for bits and pieces

[ambec]

Thanks, Bruce for the reply. Great idea for there certainly isn't much room to work when you have big hands and a narrow space both on the firewall and the small working area on the starter itself. As with us all, time is limited and it seems like I am not getting much done, but did get the dash finished and painted and the old steering wheel off. If anyone has an extra flip switch for the voltmeter that is proper, would be glad to buy.
Cheers
Eric

[Bruce in BC]

UJoint trick

You know how you pound a ujoint out one way , remove the cap and then pound the cross and cap out the other way ? Very often the darn cap goes in a tad crooked or some thing gets damaged when driving the cross and cap out the back way . That happened to me today . No matter how carefull I was the cap kept getting crooked in the yoke. I ended up cutting the cap across the top with a zip blade . I then took a cold chisel and split the cap in half and pulled the cross . It took about 44 seconds to zip the cap and about 20 seconds to split the cap . I was surprised how fast this procedure is and may resort to it more often in the future .
Yes I could have used my 20 ton press . But that would have meant spending an hour moving the wood stack.

Bruce

just back from a week of prospecting .

[Bruce in BC]

those cummins sure fit nice

Looks like original equipment .

[Jake]

Looking great Bruce,
I can't wait to see the finished truck in real life.

[jawgroth]

Corner

Would anyone with a straight carryall rear corner be willing to trace the outline (as shown by the blue line) on a piece of paper and send it to me. I am working on both rear corners.

Progress: I have stripped the complete outside of paint (all seven layers) and am starting the inside and sheetmetal repair.


Thanks

Eric

[Bruce in BC]

I will do it but give me a week.

My Carryall is in the shop and I am at home .
We are a tad far apart and i am kinda booked. I was there today and ordered some front shocks for the thing . Painted my shifter and the new tank too . A lot of tanks are lead/tin coated not zink . By painting the outside of the tank I figure handling the tank will be safer for my health.
email me at godsolderbrother@yahoo.com with your contact imformation and I will send you a template as soon as possible .

But you gotta show us some pictures of what it looks like now that some of the paint is off . Pictures are like food for the soul . It will help the rest of us get energized.

Bruce

[TK064]

I can't believe I just found this thread given all of the time I spend on this and the DPW forum.

After collecting dust in my garage for many years, I finally started working on my carryall. I am still in the disassembly stage. Many cans of PB Blaster, chiseling up 5 gallons of tar, drilling out the flatheads screws, etc.

I now need to go buy some welding blankets so I start cutting off some of the later modifications that were welded in.

Keep the thread going. Here are some picures of my carryall.

[TK064]

just a few more

[Bruce in BC]

That body looks to be in very good condition

I think it is comparable to mine , unless all that white paint is covering up 50 lbs of bondo . The floors , kick panels and interior look very nice . I know a few carryall owners out there working with far less and would be very happy to end up with a floor in as good a condition as your floor looks. I hope you know how good a vehicle that one is .
I have some shots of a wasted floor that I will post as soon as I figure out how to shrink them . The shots are from another Carryall being built and considering what gets fixed these days the floors are not that big of a deal .
Keep the photos coming in . They help in more ways than you think .
I see what you mean by tar . That firewall is down right scary. There must be enough tar there that you could save it and patch your roof for the next few decades. Either that or render it down into biofuel .

Bruce

where are you located ?

As to just finding the thread I think we need to change the heading to one that gets more hits when googled .

[Jake]

Nice to see this thread growing, I agree with you Bruce about changing the name so people can find it on Google.
I have done some searching on Google and have not found allot on the 1/2 ton Carryalls either.
Your concept of making an Expedition vehicle out of your WC 53, Bruce, is really starting to get some traction in my own plans for my 1/2 ton Carryall.
I am thinking roof racks, lights, disc brakes, sound proofing and maybe a diesel engine.