The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

Why not run a OX locker ?

Take a look at the floor in a old PW or Carryall and you see lots of knobs . The OX locker uses a mini floor mounted shifter that would look right at home with the rest of the shifters. Add to that , the engagement and engineering of the locker mirrors that of the original Dodge engineers. Clean , simple and pretty much bombproof.

So who is running one . Or do I get to be the first ?

Bruce

Photo update tomorrow. I have some front spring shots that may be better sent off to Gordon so I will shoot something else.

[Ugg013]

Take a look at the floor in a old PW or Carryall and you see lots of knobs.

BC Bruce:

????????? What kinda knobs? Where?

[JimmieD]

The knobs attached to shifter levers, Ugg, the black round ones...

[amelinas]

No Ugg, maybe you remember the formerly black round ones, before your nice dogs........

[Bruce in BC]

A paint question

I notice a few of you have nice shiny trucks . Some have olive drab type paint and some have the original patina . My Carryall has this amazing patina . Sorta Tuneresk but instead of "Steamship in a Snowstorm" I have more of a "Carryall in a kahkah storm " .
I am sorta out in left field on this . I am clueless what to do . I have to paint the truck . But do I go for the worn patina route , matt black , Olive drab with fake markings, or that weathered look .
Any thoughts ?


Bruce

Off to Search and Rescue training. Got my 16 pairs of corderoy on and 2 left gloves.

[JimmieD]

In a word, C a m m o.

[Ugg013]

The knobs attached to shifter levers, Ugg, the black round ones...

Jimmie:

But he said ON the floor, not OVER it. ;>)

Holger:

Yeah, I forgot to feed em that day. My fault I guess. HA!

BC Bruce:

Personally, I like the original color, a nice flat OD, but those ARE a bear to keep clean looking. As for the cammo, they did use cammo in WW II, but not much, and to be truely correct, it was applied with either brush or broom. I love going to MV shows, and see all these MV's done up in cammo, and you can see how nicely sprayed on they were. A lot of care and time spent on em, and then hear the owners get into arguments about historical accuracy. Now it may be different these days, but I have done a few vehicles in cammo while in, and the ONLY time we used spray was with the bumper #'s, in either white or black, depending where ya were. The rest was with the PROPER paint outa the bucket. Bottom line though, it's whatever YOU like.

[Bruce in BC]

Shots of a once smooshed carryall rear corner.

The number of carryalls with smooshed corners is quite high . Of all the remaining carryalls in the world there are more with smooshed corners than not . Way back in my Carryal's past this corner was smooshed and then repaired with lead . The technigue used was to hammer a screwdriver through the panel and pull out some of the dent using anything available . The remaining dent was then liberaly loaded up with lead . Unfortunitly the body man did not prep the metal very well and I had to remove the lead . Once that was done I hammered out the panel . This panel has three round patches where the screw driver holes used to be . To get at everything I was forced to remove a chunk of the inner panel and will weld it back in after the body work is done . I will paint the inside of the panel before welding it up.
Not a bad job . A coat of high build will cover up the work that I have not completely metal finished.

The original damage was 2 creases . Each about a foot long and a good inch or more deep. There was a few lbs of lead in those dents.

Take care

Bruce

[Bill in MI]

Looks great Bruce!
I enjoy that kind of work. Did you have to do any kind of shrinking of the panel to get the it back in line?

I am doing a cab roof next. I'm thinking of investing in a shrinking disc to try and smooth out the roof. Until now, I have used a small torch and worked a little a time, but I'm no expert.

Good luck the rest of the way.

[MoparNorm]

Looks great Bruce!
I hate welding at weird angles, I sure like your rotisserie garage....= )
MN

[Bruce in BC]

No shrinking that I recall .

There was one oil can that I worked on for a bit . But that was about a foot into the flat area and related to a dent where some idiot smacked the side with a hammer . The corners are round enough that a bit of stretching would go unnoticed . The welding on the plugs helped create a shrink on its own . I used a hole saw and cut out the real nasty area around each hole . I find this works better for me than a small 1/2 inch plug .
When pounding out the roof you should pop the dents up and hammer the ridges down that you find on the outside of the roof . Most of the work will be dolly off. I hear the disc works pretty slick . I made one years ago out of some stainless but was never able to get it to work to my satisfaction . Good results have been reported though .

[MoparNorm]

Yeah...but that's the easy part! HOW did you tilt the garage?????
MN

[Ugg013]

Yeah...but that's the easy part! HOW did you tilt the garage?????
MN

Norm:

How could ya even ask that, living where you live? Moveable ground. HA!

There was one oil can that I worked on for a bit . But that was about a foot into the flat area and related to a dent where some idiot smacked the side with a hammer . The corners are round enough that a bit of stretching would go unnoticed . The welding on the plugs helped create a shrink on its own . I used a hole saw and cut out the real nasty area around each hole . I find this works better for me than a small 1/2 inch plug .
When pounding out the roof you should pop the dents up and hammer the ridges down that you find on the outside of the roof . Most of the work will be dolly off. I hear the disc works pretty slick . I made one years ago out of some stainless but was never able to get it to work to my satisfaction . Good results have been reported though .

BC Bruce:

Are you KIDDING?????? My 1st attempt in popping the dent out of the roof of the Beast blew the seals outa 4 Ton Porta Power. It took a 10 ton'er to do the job. I haven't even tried to do the finish work on that part yet, but while fixing the runningboard, I used my body hammers and dollys to NO avail. 30 minutes of beating on it while keeping it cherry red did absolutely NOTHING to the metal (but almost killed me). Then I remembered the "Old Days", and broke out the 5 lb mini sledge.

As for the leading, the GOOD old timers used it sparingly, just as the good Bondo mechanic's of today do. The less ya put on, the less ya need to take off. I know when I attempt to do the side panel of the Beast, I'll be wasting a whole bunch as it's been almost 30 years since the last time I did any leading. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK! And THANKS for sharring.

Later
Ugg

[Bruce in BC]

I was talking roof dent not smooshed like yours.

When a roof gets walked on or something heavy pushes the roof down it should be possible to pop the dent up and hammer away. How you pop the dent up may be accomplished in many ways . A big old rubber mallet works on occasion and after that you go bigger if necessary .
Your roof was smooshed . It had folds and rinkles and structural pieces bent besides just the skin .
When a large tree gets close and personal with your vehicle the patented Ugg method is the standard way to go . Been there done that .


Bruce


Just got in from a all night search . I need someone else to build my truck. Like Overhaulin .

[Jake]

I used a short 2x4 on top of the twenty ton hydraulic jack and pushed it out wrinkles and all. However the size of hammer and dolly required to finess the metal at this point is'nt available at any supply shops that I'm aware of.
My final solution was to buy another cab and park the original behind the shop untill my skills catch up to the task or.....