The WC53 Carryall thread .

[HRT5SLCFD]

Rear latches

Yes I have three or four pair. Let me dig them out on Monday and I'll take a pic. I just sold the tailgate, but it was the wrong one (1/2 ton) on a 3/4 ton about 4" too tall. I will be making a set of double swing out bottom doors for my new tailgate. Hey when I get my body done I'm going to have to pick your brain on the 4BT. I can make them look pretty but don't know much about the mechanical.

[Bruce in BC]

tail gates 1/2 and 3/4 ton information

That is a good photograph and clearly shows the difference in height . I would have had the thing sectioned in short order to fit my 3/4 ton . yah I am short the part of the hinge that connects to the door . I remember you saying that you had some . If you are interested in selling a pair please let me know . I am getting tired of making stuff.
4BT swaps.com is a good place to visit and the link to Paul's site on the very first post on this thread is a good place for 4BT ideas . feel free to ask away I will do my best to answer .
I see you are making the square tops to the right door , I am doing the same thing to my passenger door , hopefully in the next 2 weeks .
From the looks of the tailgate photo you are missing your rear cross member in the frame . Is this the case ? My last photo up thread was a shot of a custom cross member for the same location . I needed more room for my custom tank

take care
Bruce

[HRT5SLCFD]

Hindges or latches?

Bruce you first asked for latches then hindges. I have latches and only one pair of hindges, but there on my other carryall. I'm not sure what you need? Here are some pics of the latches. I have some more in the bottom of my bucket. I also talked to a local guy here and he said that I could have several sets of hindges cast for about $25, but the pattern would cost alot more. I do have a good set for a pattern, the bottoms are the same left and right, but the tops are left and right specific.



Oh by the way I do have a cross member it was in the back of my other carryall.

[Jake]

Hey HRT5SLCFD,
Your truck is taking shape quite nicely, good to see the progress pics showing up on this amazing thread.

[Bruce in BC]

Latches ? Hinges ? Brain ?

Yep I did say latches but I meant hinges . As I get older my brain likes to stay in park on occasion . I got some news for you , the bottom part of the hinge is different from side to side , at least mine are . I do have the part that connects to the body , each side is specific to that side . I think I will weld up some new steel ones . I could try and machine some out of wax and have them cast in bronze but that sounds like more work and expense than getting creative with the grinder and welder . Working in wax can be fun though , it has been awhile since I had anything cast in bronze .

thanks
Bruce

Hey there Jake , good to see you are on the right side of the ground . Best wishes to you and yours this holiday season .

[Jake]

Hey there Jake , good to see you are on the right side of the ground . Best wishes to you and yours this holiday season .

Hey Bruce,
Glad to be alive and well,
We have been way to busy and I have missed alot of stuff on this forum.
However I am working in my home shop again.
Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and your family as well Bruce!

[HRT5SLCFD]

More progress

I was searching through some older pics and put the two together, boy what a difference. I can't belive how short this was before I cut it in half. I'm taking all the good stuff and putting it on my stocker. My thought would be since I'm doing all this body work what's a little more. So all the good fenders, hood, and any other original part would go on the stocker. When it comes to my stocker it will that much easier. Now I have about 50 or 60 feet of welding and body work this winter. I have been waiting on my new air compresser so I can soda blast all my parts, it should be here Monday.

[HRT5SLCFD]

Look what showed up

Got my new air compressor today. It will turn 34 CFM @ 175 psi plenty enough to soda blast parts. Then off with my new welder to weld up the patches. It will be a fun winter no concrete.

[HRT5SLCFD]

Bee hive city

Worked on my hatch back. I opened it up and bees, hives, brake cleaner no more bees. I will blast both sides then hammer and dolly. I will need to remake the hinge mount (rusted bolts). I'm going to old fashen lead solder this whole project.

[Bruce in BC]

You need to make a dip tank

Changes the rust to iron oxide and is much easier to remove the oxide than the red rust . The nice part is it gets into the seams and places that the blast media can not reach . Not sure what i will do about the double skin on the body wall . You have some great stuff for dozens of PWA articles .
Did you heat up the edge of the outer skin and fold it back ? I used that method on my passenger door and it works quite well .

Out to work in my very cold shop .

bruce

[HRT5SLCFD]

Dip tank?

Do you put acid in it? How long does it take? How do you get the oxide off? What kind of container? I was going to blast then acid the seams. Let me know more on this dip tank.
Thanks James

[Bruce in BC]

Look up electrolytic rust removal

Or rust removal by electrolysis . I use a 5 gallon pail for the small stuff and a fiberglass bath tub for things as large as a door . A few people have built their own frames and dipped a whole car . One guy used a pool liner and built a wood frame . When I pull out the part I rub it with a wire brush , or wire wheel , or crocous cloth and then pressure wash the part . Sometimes I do this a couple of times . Some parts come up real shiny with little effort - my window winders and some parts take a bit of work . No acid , I use soap or washing soda and run DC current through the part . If you ever look through a microscope at sand blasted metal you will see that the metal gets peened over and there is some rust trapped in the deep pits . When I dip first and then blast the rust does not come back . I have skipped the blasting step and sprayed epoxy over the black inert rust and it has not come back either. But that is only 3-4 years old and I figure it needs another 7 years to pass the test .
take care
Bruce

generally it takes 24 hours to cnfirt the rust but I have left the door in for a week to get the paint off. There are a lot of nooks and crannies that can not be reached on the inside of a door by blasting .

[Bruce in BC]

"I thought this truck was going to be a quick build "

I really needed to here those words from my wife today . Now instead of just me kicking myself in the aurse I have another person adding some leverage to my foot . This is the cross member getting test fitted . yes the shop is a mess , weird part is I am in the middle of a clean and it will get majorly more messy before I can get things cleaned up .

you folks take care out there
Bruce

[HRT5SLCFD]

Looks great

Bruce, the cross member looks great. A dirty shop means your working.

I worked on getting my body straight. I had to use the high lift jack. I also have a good size dent (drivers side rear top). I also have to clean up and fix the rear drip edge.



Oh by the way I looked up the rust removal. Cool stuff. Do you know if you can use more than 12 volts? I have a fork lift charger at 45 volts.
Thanks James

[HRT5SLCFD]

45 volt rust remover

Well 15 minutes into this I have about an inch of foam. I did this a little different. I put a piece of wood and wraped it in wire holding my part, then took a metal 5 gallon bucket(concrete form oil, I have hundreds). Hooked up the leads and bubbles everywhere. I hope 45 volts isn't too much. My charger has a shut off at 16 hours so I'll try it at about 2 or 3 hours and see what happens.



P.S. it's outside on the concrete side of the yard so if it blows up the wife wont see it.