The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

Yep all sorts of weird responses.

" The trucks are cream puffs ",
" the floor braces and supports are rusted out "
" a lot of damage in the rear "
" the fronts are pristine "
" one is partially burnt "
" the owner is a nice guy "
and there is name calling and talk of court cases .
The trucks do look half decent and one has most of the glass in it . My ugly multiple paint coat truck was straighter but missing the tailgate and drivetrain . It will be interesting to see if the trucks get purchased and who does what with them . It would be sad if they sat there for another 10 years and got burnt to the ground in a grass fire . But if that does happen it will make a good story .

Good to hear from you Norm . You need to fill us in on how your eyesight is doing . I lucked out when I detached my retna , got it reatached the next day . I new the warning signs and the person answering the phone was smart enough to have me come in right away .
take care
Bruce

[HRT5SLCFD]

Dipped and welded

I made a dip tank out of some concrete forms and plastic. Works really well, except I must of had a hole about 3/4 from the top. I just added a little more water and soda. It came out ok, not as good as the hinge. I blasted the areas that I needed to weld. I welded about 3 feet, then did some grinding. I have about 47 more feet to go.

[Bruce in BC]

Looks like a rare side door to me .

The rust and paint stripping does take some time to figure out . The current will travel off straight edges more than flat surfaces . Some parts will take a few days to strip and another will clean up in a few hours . The nice part is the rust is neutralized . Tig welding is much easier to do after the door has been dipped and you do not have a bunch of lead dust around your home and shop . One thing that works great for cleaning up the door is the plastic type pads that fit on your angle grinder , They look like a pot scrubber with attitude.
47 feet of welding is not bad , I had over 110 in my hot rod , 1/2 gas and 1/2 tig . Lots of hammer welding and it took ages to get done . Weld an inch , then hammer weld an inch and repeat till you go nuts .
That door looks good .
Bruce
Going to lead the door welds ? That should be fun .

[Bruce in BC]

rear carryall split bumper

I messed up with the arch and the shape does not fit as cleanly as I would have liked but I think I will quit with this model and not build another one . I am going to fit in a little bush bar behind the rear fender to protect the fender while backing up . The bar will look like the bars used on a track roadster . The bumper is bigger than it looks from top to bottom , There is a 45' angle at the bottom that tends to shrink the bumper size down when you look at it.
I am at war in my shop . I am building a bench with 34 drawers and a good 18 feet long . I ripped out the old bench and tossed a lot of stuff out . The mess you see at the back of the truck is nothing like the rest of the shop . The rest of the shop is multiples worse . Once the bench is in things should improve.
The bumper specs are 1/4 inch hot rolled steel , welded both sides , ground flush on the outside and the beads are left alone on the inside . I am not sure about tail lights yet . A pintle hook will look at home between the split bumper.

[gmayer]

Battery Box

Hello Bruce! Great thread you guys have going, very inspiring. I have a couple questions.
First, as far as the stock battery box is there wood under the tray that holds the battery? There seems to be quit a space between where my cover goes, and where the hinge should attach.
Second, I don't have the parts to make the rear door stay shut. I 'll try to upload a photo here to explain.
Third, What do you think of my steering?
Thanks for the help - garrett

[Bruce in BC]

welcome aboard !

(1) Battery box - It had a flat piece of metal or battery tray that was separate from the running board and sat on its own 2 braces .
(2) If you look up thread you will see what the stock rear hatch brackets look like . HRT5SLCFD has some that he may be willing to part with and he has posted the pictures of the latches . The proportions on the four door conversion seem to be bang on .
(3) Steering = cool . How close does the front tire come to the box ? I could not get away with that placement because the tire would hit the box

I have some questions for you I will post tomorrow - engine mounts , pedals , booster stuff . Great little motor you have there .

Bruce

[Bruce in BC]

Garrett

Steering u joints are not supposed to run over 30 degrees . I see them on cab overs and they sure look like they are running more than 30 degrees . From what I see you have the ujoints in phase and the set up looks OEM . What are you using for your steering column linkage ? Those columns can be shortened without welding the steering shaft . A bit of a PITA but I have done a few over the years . The one in my carryall is store bought . I needed the instant gratification .
Are both pedals on one side of the column ?
How low is your motor ? The master cylinder looks like it fits better than mine or you have more room than me . Is the turbo a high or low mount ? Toss us off some more shots of the truck and other details when you get time . The input helps the rest of us get motivated .

Bruce
I wonder how many feet of welding are done on the many door carryall . Those last shots inspired me to work on the bumper

[gmayer]

Is this the correct battery box arrangement? I know I am missing a hinge

[gmayer]

State of the union

[gmayer]

Some more

[gmayer]

Bruce the pedals are both hang on the left side of the steering shaft. I took the Pedal mounts from the donor bread truck and made some modifications to them. My Brake pedal seems to be much higher than my clutch pedal. The donor p-30 ford bread truck ran a vacuum booster off of the vacuum pump. So I guess the stroke difference is due to the use of the hydroboost. I believe the clutch MC is from the bread truck as we.

I took the steering column out of the Bread truck as well and stuck that in. I hate the ford steering wheel, but figured that is an easy thing to change later.

I have been toiling over getting the body work for the last 4 months. I am getting close to priming with ful-fill primer, doing a final sand and painting the outside of the cab.

I have a very primitive crossmember setup supporting the Tranny and t-case. This was my attempt to avoid having to buy an NV4500 and t-case. The tranny that came with the motor had a rebuilt tag on it and it looks relatively new. I got the NP-205? as a fresh reman for 350 bucks. I then fabbed the short stubby driveshaft. I didn't want to go thru building a really nice crossmember if the tranny t-case setup didn't work. I figured once I got far enough along I would road test and make a change at that point.

I mounted everything on the truck using existing frame holes except for 4 holes I had to drill to get the t-case suspended. It has resulted in some weird brackets, but I didn't want to hack up the frame incase I ever wanted to go back to the orginal running gear.

I have been focusing on trying to get to the test drive point.

[Bruce in BC]

Looking good .

Yes that is the battery box tray . Imagine that you had it and did not know where it went . I wonder how many of us have tossed out JUNK only to find out later that the part was unobtainum and necessary for the vehicle . Or left it someplace safe and it remains safe to this day .
The little drive shaft between your transmission and the transfer case may eat up cardon joints or vibrate . Then again you might get away with it . The yokes are not phased .
Your Carryall body looks decent . What did you do find a NOS one in a crate ?
I am down at the high school shop working late . Some kid is doing a trannie swap . I am trying to get up enough energy to do something on my carryall , maybe finish welding the rear bumper . There is a goal . I am off to "geturdone " .


best regards Bruce

One day we are going to have a Carryall rally

edit - I just read your post - we were typing at the same time , THIS is a thread first .

[gmayer]

Bruce, this is year two or three on this project. I believe we spoke when I was just beginning. Some day I will post some pictures of what I started with, it has come a long way. I warped the doors when I sand blasted them, ignorance. The same ignorance on the drive shaft. I guess thats how you learn!

[Bruce in BC]

Garrett what are you running for axles

Those sure do not look stock from the little I can see . I got 3 hours in and finished the caps on the bumpers on Friday , Today I am working on the rear tailgate skeleton , welding up and radiusing / blending in the corners . It will not get skinned for a few months . call it four hours today , I am providing guidance while down at the school swapping a trannie too

Bruce

[gmayer]

Bruce, Keep up the good work. I am using Dana 60's front and rear out of a 91 w-250. I am using the stock brake setup. I totally rebuilt the rear brakes, the front calipers I haven't touched. I hope they aren't froze by the time I get to the test drive. I have a set of new Humvee tires that I am going to put on some old american racing aluminum outlaws that I plan on painting with the epoxy od green I have. I think they will be around 36". I think I will get those painted and mounted soon. It will really make a difference in the appearance of the project, plus I can check the clearance on my steering box. - Garrett