The WC53 Carryall thread .

[gmayer]

James,
Looks like great progress. Awesome!!!
Here is my truck in final primer.
I have the rod, but the lower tailgate hook is broken on both sides. The upper tailgate hood on both sides is missing. I also need the Hardware and springs that mount on the body itself. I have the mount that holds the shaft on the body, but the springs and the hooks are missing. Any help would be great. keep up the good work. - Garrett

[AAIndigo]

New guy with a WC-48

[/IMG]Well I just came across this thread and have to say that I love it. My name is Archie and I Live in Franklin Ma. I am in the middle of a restoration of my wc-48 carryall. This is a 2 wheel drive carryall that I purchased about 4,5,or 6 years ago from VPW. My truck was extended 12". They made the expansion between the rear windows. I have finished the passenger side of the truck and am now working on the drivers side. I'm learning as I go and enjoy every minute of it.

I'm going to try and attach some photos. I will put a link to my Photobucket site as well. http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...48%20Carryall/

Archie

PS: Bruce I Fabricated my own tailgate and have the templates and Flexible shape pattern. It wasn't all that difficult but I did do it at my buddies shop. He has the tools to make it easier. I'm hoping to get back over there in the next few weeks and skin it.

[Bruce in BC]

Wow !

You have done some nice work on your truck . The tailgate is looking very good and professional . it pays to have the right tools or live close enough to a friend with them . Why not do one article on the inner structure and another when you skin the tailgate ? You could get yourself a free subscription and then you will really be hooked . Unless you plan on going for the Ridler award being published does not have any negatives .
Thanks for providing your input to this thread .
take care

Bruce

I epoxied my rear bumper halfs . It took about 4 hours to strip the scale off . Next time I scrape the scale before I fabricate the part .

[gmayer]

update

[HRT5SLCFD]

Nice paint

Garrett, nice job on your paint. Checked out TM 9. Great paint, I like the blue. The pattern guy told me to blast the parts before I bring them to him. I will soda blast them in the morning, then run them down to him. It would be nice to have the cast numbers on the pattern?

Anyway I'm about 2/3 done with my drivers side. I took the bad door off my stock carryall, and traded it with the good one. I figured what's a few more hours of CWG (cut weld grind). The next project will be a pleasure, all the work is allready done. I'm going to miss the skull and cross bones on my door.




Well back to the CWG. James

[mcinfantry]

[/IMG]Well I just came across this thread and have to say that I love it. My name is Archie and I Live in Franklin Ma. I am in the middle of a restoration of my wc-48 carryall. This is a 2 wheel drive carryall that I purchased about 4,5,or 6 years ago from VPW. My truck was extended 12". They made the expansion between the rear windows. I have finished the passenger side of the truck and am now working on the drivers side. I'm learning as I go and enjoy every minute of it.

I'm going to try and attach some photos. I will put a link to my Photobucket site as well. http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...48%20Carryall/

Archie

PS: Bruce I Fabricated my own tailgate and have the templates and Flexible shape pattern. It wasn't all that difficult but I did do it at my buddies shop. He has the tools to make it easier. I'm hoping to get back over there in the next few weeks and skin it.

wow, that looks awesome!
you should make and sell them!

[lebowski]

Wow, that looks good! Your choice of rims (old school Centerlines?) suit the vehicle also. I often see older vehicles with new style rims and it seems to totally destroy the old nostalgic look of a vehicle. Your choice, in my eyes, appears to keep the vintage look to the WC. The color helps too. :-)

[TK064]

Metal thickness. Well I had several posts that 16ga was the thickness used for the sides of the carryalls, so I bought a sheet. Well it really looks more like 18-20 gauge on the WC. Can anyone advise?

Thanks,

Tim

[mcinfantry]

16 seemed too thick for me too.

[Gordon(Scotland)]

Carryalls vary

Sheet metal thickness is an interesting topic where Carryalls are concerned.

Back to the beginning. The first VC6 Carryalls were converted panel vans, and that included the rear tailgate and liftgate, which were basically just cut and welded van doors. This meant the van hinges used for the tailgate and the tailgate metal thickness itself was way to thin for serious use, hence half ton WCs got bigger hinges for tailgate and liftgate, and the tailgate metal was now thicker than the liftgate.

Half ton Carryalls still had what was basically a van body, but the recessed spare wheel panel seems to be a little thicker. When you get to 3/4 ton Carryalls the early ones at least, had a panel leaded in to cover the spare wheel well, which was not now needed.

Boiling it down -

The thickest metal on a Carryall is the sheet metal for the window box liner panels ( the inner panels on two of mine stopped bullets that had come right though the double outer skin )

Slightly thinner is the metal for the tailgate. I use 1mm thick metal when re-skinning or repairing.

Thinner again, body sides, liftgate, original van thickness on roof, doors, etc.

[HRT5SLCFD]

Axle options?

I removed my front axle to take down to the soda blaster. I disassembled and got to the center section.....well see for your self. I was going to put 4.89's with the stock set up. After a few phone calls, I would be in this more to fix what I have, than to buy an entire doner truck. Hey guys what axles are you using? Would an 1990 ish dodge 3/4 or 1 ton drive train work?

[mcinfantry]

i am running a 14bolt chevy rear and dodge dana 60 front. NOT a chevy dana60....

[W_A_Watson_II]

I've still got the Dodge Hypoid axles in the M and both PW's (well one center section short). Not cheap on parts, but I love the look. I am resonsidering, only at time, to swap the axles out of the M as with the wheeling I do, I have axles issues (twist and breaks), but with the money invested, I'm not doing it anytime soon.

Unless you want to wheel it, and I doubt that with the work in the body, and with the work to make it look as original as you have done, it would be weird to put in a different axle.

What parts are you having issues finding? Is it the gear's? Depending upon tire size you might be OK with the 5.83's, and even if you get 4.89's, 60 is about top speed for the drive train and suspension design.

Just my 2 cents worth. My father in-law always said, I'll give you mine, but do what is right for you.

[HRT5SLCFD]

I can weld but axles, drive, etc.??????

Mcinfantry, are you running and auto trans? I just want to have four wheel drive to get me out of a bind. No hard core off road. Maybe a logging road or two. I would like speeds of 70 or 75. Mostly just highway stuff. What year are your axles? What did you do for spring mounts? Way back in time when I worked at a rod garage we would reweld the spring perch's, I would think that would have to be done in order to have it line up. What motor are you running? Trans? T-Case?

[mcinfantry]

Mcinfantry, are you running and auto trans? I just want to have four wheel drive to get me out of a bind. No hard core off road. Maybe a logging road or two. I would like speeds of 70 or 75. Mostly just highway stuff. What year are your axles? What did you do for spring mounts? Way back in time when I worked at a rod garage we would reweld the spring perch's, I would think that would have to be done in order to have it line up. What motor are you running? Trans? T-Case?

cummins 4bt. 4l80e auto and a np241 clocked flat. it gives me 22" ground clearance to the frame sitting on michelin xl tires.

i re-welded the rear perches and made a new drivers side perch but re-used the spot carved in the knuckle.... 4.88 gears with ARB air lockers.