The WC53 Carryall thread .

[W_A_Watson_II]

I just want to have four wheel drive to get me out of a bind. No hard core off road. Maybe a logging road or two. I would like speeds of 70 or 75. Mostly just highway stuff.

Then you had better swap axles, suspension and steering. I've seen others make adapters to still use the Budd wheels on modern axles.

[TK064]

Thanks Gordon. If you were to estimate the gauge for carryall sides (3/4 ton) what would you say.

Tim

[Gordon(Scotland)]

Well ....

I'm a foreigner you see Tim, I don't normally do gauges as different countries have different rules.

If I had to guess I'd say the original tailgate was 3/64" thick and the body sides maybe 1/32" ?

Gordon

[TK064]

Thanks Gorden, I can look from that. I got the floor test fitted today. Decided to start with something easier. Also my stack of shiny parts looking ready for some primer if the weather will warm up and stop raining.

[gmayer]

James,
I am using dana 60's out of a 91 dodge w-250 diesel. I wanted dana 60's and I got them for free. What ever Lee(mcinfantry) is doing is probably the best thing to do. I know he has build several trucks like this and is trying to make the best Carryall. You can see the dana 60s are a bit wider than the stock axels, I also have wheels that have more offset.
As far as mounting, cut perches and reweld. make sure your pinion angle is right, bruce could probably chime in on that.

[gmayer]

James, I would think that the 4:88's that lee is using would not be ideal for 70-75 mph's that you are looking for

[mcinfantry]

James, I would think that the 4:88's that lee is using would not be ideal for 70-75 mph's that you are looking for

here is why i went 4.88.
in my m715, i could only go about 76 iirc and it was not too easy to get there, with a 4bt 4.56 and michelin xl tires (38.7"). in 5th with an nv4500. mathmatical @2500rpm was 84.

in this truck, with 4.88 at 2500 top speed is 78. so i should pick up low end, and 75 is PLENTY fast. PLENTY.

[Bruce in BC]

A couple of facts , points and an opinion too .

The sheet metal thickness on the WC53 carryall rear side quarters is 18 guage . I just checked with a Brown & Sharpe Mfg sheet metal guage . About the only place I could find to check was the bottom turned edge behind the fenderwell .

Axles choice depends on what you plan on doing with the truck and what transfer case you plan on using . My choice of the best OEM axle for a Carryall would be a 79 Ford high pinion dana 60 axle but it is overkill for a vehicle that is going to do a majority of it's life on the street . The 79 axle also has the carrier on the drivers side . The reason that the axle is so popular is there is enough room on the axle to move the perches around . Newer axles have one perch machined into the carrier pumpkin . Most new axles use unit bearings , they are costly to replace and not as strong as the old style tapered roller bearing .
That said a newer axle has all new parts and should not need a rebuild . Rebuilding takes time and costs cash . Lots of the newer axles do not come with locking hubs . I hate not having hubs . Getting out to turn them is part of what makes a 4x4 a real four wheel drive .
A dana 44 from a 3/4 ton may be all you need , for the rear you could go dana 60 or a newer 14 bolt equipped with disc brakes .
1990 -1993 dodge axles are passenger drop , the dana 60 is the kingpin style . They work but the springs need to be moved outboard about 1/2 an inch per side .

Lots to think and argue about .

Bruce

I dipped my window frame , then I went at it with acid , then it went back in the rust converter tank , after that I gave it a light blast and then coated it with a coat of epoxy . Too many steps to take and all in an effort to have it last a little longer . I am going to pour some rust mort down the inside , flush it , dry it out and then pour some epoxy down the inside as well .

[mcinfantry]

i have tried to use some U shaped weatherstripping like:

plus the top pictured stuff fell apart in the truck, in my garage with NO USE over about a 18 month period.
but i find it makes my power windows bind BAD. (i have not tried the original winders.

has anyone tried the stuff shaped like:




im thinking it may work better with our frames. i have 6 power windows, to replace my 6 manual winders... LOL

im aware of the two different overall dimensions. pictures are for REFERENCE, not necessarily what i will try.

[Bruce in BC]

Window felts .

I have 6 roll down windows in my hot rod . The felts look like new and have been in the vehicle for almost 30 years . One of the things I had to do was get the felts dead straight in the channel . Once I got that squared away the windows would roll up and down with ease . I have had to cut the channels free and move them around on other vehicles to get the windows to roll up and down . I suspect I am going to have to do that on the passenger door that I pulled the skin from . What did the window glass cost ? Up here it is basically 100 bucks a window .

Best regards
Bruce

[mcinfantry]

I have 6 roll down windows in my hot rod . The felts look like new and have been in the vehicle for almost 30 years . One of the things I had to do was get the felts dead straight in the channel . Once I got that squared away the windows would roll up and down with ease . I have had to cut the channels free and move them around on other vehicles to get the windows to roll up and down . I suspect I am going to have to do that on the passenger door that I pulled the skin from . What did the window glass cost ? Up here it is basically 100 bucks a window .

Best regards
Bruce

you going to run the u channel style?

35 for front in green tint laminate.
25 for gray tint sides and rear.

[Bruce in BC]

yes I plan on running the U type window felts

Got some NOS stuff in my shop , that I plan to use as a test , but it has the stainless bead on it . I think the truck will look better without the stainless bead . I may dummy up one window over the next week or so . Your problem have caught my interest and I have been wondering if it was going to be a problem . Are you using the trim that goes up and down with the window ?
So in Canada it costs 1000 dollars to get the window glass done and in the States , at least your state the cost is about 220 . And you folks down south wonder why it takes so long to get anything built in the great white north ?
What with my 82 dollar door pins and 1000 dollar glass the darn things cost too much to build .

Bruce

[mcinfantry]

Got some NOS stuff in my shop , that I plan to use as a test , but it has the stainless bead on it . I think the truck will look better without the stainless bead . I may dummy up one window over the next week or so . Your problem have caught my interest and I have been wondering if it was going to be a problem . Are you using the trim that goes up and down with the window ?
So in Canada it costs 1000 dollars to get the window glass done and in the States , at least your state the cost is about 220 . And you folks down south wonder why it takes so long to get anything built in the great white north ?
What with my 82 dollar door pins and 1000 dollar glass the darn things cost too much to build .

Bruce

you lost me.

[Bruce in BC]

Carryall window trim .

The early trucks had a piece of trim that surrounds the glass . This metal trim slides up and down in the window channel . There are six of these on a Carryall.

[mcinfantry]

The early trucks had a piece of trim that surrounds the glass . This metal trim slides up and down in the window channel . There are six of these on a Carryall.

got you. yes, mine have surrounds. the weatherstrip i got is from vpw. it appears to be too deep and instead of grabbing the 'necked down' tab of the metal surround, it is too tall and grabbing the widest part as well.....