The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Alxj64]

Then I used this guy to clear out the lugs some. I picked this up to use on my sticky competition rock tires I run on my Jeep wrangler.



Final results of the test. Time consuming but adds a good bit of life back.

x

[Alxj64]

Before and After...





And these are big. They are supposed to be 38" tall, but here they are inflated next to my 40" spare rock crawling sticky tire. It measures out to over 40" with no load and inflated.



Sorry for the 3 separate posts. The forum only lets me do 3 pictures per post.

[dieseldude4bt]

I would like to hear more about the internal cage as I am working on my wc26 and could do that at this point if somebody would like to share their plans.

[Bruce in BC]

internal cage

I have built roll cages for drag cars and a few off road vehicles . On a couple of truggies I helped with the design of external cages . The external cages worked great but for a number of reasons we ended up cutting them off . The vehicles were surprisingly more tippy in off camber situations .
One of the first things you need to decide is if you really want a full cage . The next step would be how many points will the cage have . A full cage in a Carryall would most likely be a 10 point cage , Eight in the cab and two out by the rad . there is a mess of other things to consider in a cage build .
One thing that would help with strengthening a stock frame and body would be to change the crossmembers to 2x2 tubing , One of these would go right under the door jam and the rear jam vertical frame would get welded to the cross member . Another would go across the frame and the ends would be in the area between the two windows , the third cross member would end up behind the third window and far enough back to be behind the third seat back , By doing this you would stiffen the frame and create outriggers to tie a roll cage together .

Take care
Bruce

[TK064]

rear gate tips

okay, I need to cut out most of the out side of the rear gate (as it was smashed) and re-skin it. I think I can leave most of the edges and the top edge is much better that the bottom. It looks like it should be a compound curve. Any metal working tips for this one?

Thanks,

Tim

[Bruce in BC]

yep

These guys will make you cry . Keep in mind some of these guys have 500 grand in machinery or have been working on the same project since 1998 .
http://www.metalmeet.com/
My Miller helmet just packed it in .... right when I need it .

[Alxj64]

I've heard rumors that M37 fenders will fit on an WC53? Any truth to that gurus?

[DavidGB]

Carryall fenders

Alxj64,
I don't believe that M37 fenders will fit on a WC53. I haven't ever explored the option but would speculate that other WWII 3/4 WC fenders might work.
DavidGB

[TK064]

I believe there was a post from Paul from NY regarding the rear M37 fenders working on a carryall

[Bruce in BC]

Rear M37 fenders

The M37 rear fenders have the same arch , roll and bead as a WC53 Carryall . You would need to shape the back end and weld a strip to the M37 fender to make the width correct for the Carryall . There are still NOS M37 fenders around and using one of these to make a rear fender would be quicker than beating out one from sheet stock . Some one found a truck supply shop that had pretty much every diameter available but I have long since lost the address . The truck shop might be quicker than looking for a decent M37 fender .
I changed the top of my rad today . It now uses a late model filler neck and the cap fits in the hole . I used a billet specialties black anodized notched cap . Does not look like billet poop and blends right in and looks original .

Bruce

[DavidGB]

Carryall Fenders

You know what they say when you assume something. I had automatically thought you were talking about front fenders. Anyways, I didn't know that about the rear fenders. While we are on the subject of rear fenders I am reminded of a question I believe I posed about 7 years ago when I had begun working on my rear fenders. In the first photo you can note that when not mounted these fenders were not "square" at the back and I didn't know wether that was normal. I was guessing that it was and that once mounted to the body the inner radius would be reduced vs the outside edge and that would "square" them up.
The second photo is a bit later when they had been primed and sealed. The question still stands (never got an answer) because I have still not finished that project and the rear fenders remain unmounted. Sorry to admit.
DavidGB

[Bruce in BC]

Should be straight

Once mounted the rear of the fender should be straight . The only way to know how they will sit is to mount them on the Carryall . The metal tends to move around a bit once it is bolted in place . If they are both out of whack and match I would leave them alone unless it looks odd to your eye . I have done quite a bit of work on one of the fenders and it still does not look right . I guess they get caught on stuff and either end up pulled backwards or pushed in . Darn hard metal to work with , instead of a body hammer you need to use a 5 pound sledge .
Great picture and Carryall parts make interior decorating so easy to do . Stickley and Dodge Carryall go together . A no brainer in interior design .

[DavidGB]

Bruce in BC,
Thank you for the reply. Although there were some dents and holes in those fenders I was lucky in that the outer edge was essentially undamaged. I found dealing with bent outer edges on the front fenders requiring considerable perseverance. At the time I was doing this I did not have a garage and the sun room often served as work shop and with the overflow ending up in the living room. I loved it, but it made it harder to get on my kids about keeping their rooms neat.
DavidGB

[Alxj64]

You know what they say when you assume something. I had automatically thought you were talking about front fenders.

Ha ha... well to be honest, initially the fender question was regarding the front. I should have clarified in my original post. However, I am glad that it atleast started the discussion about the rear fenders and got some more information out there.

So I guess I am going to be on the search for some 3/4 ton front WC fenders as I have also noticed that the 1/2 ton fronts are different shaped from the 3/4 ton fronts as well.

[HRT5SLCFD]

Welder is put away

I have welded, ground, and body soldered all my patches and dents. It is now time for the body work. Got some epoxy primer, then some sandable primer. These Carryall's are big, lots of spray able gallons. Should have paint soon.