The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Bruce in BC]

Carryall central .... almost

This thread has enough hits that it should show up on google when you search " Dodge Carryall " unfortunately due to how google is configured the thread does not show up . It would be nice to have someone put in the correct data / links so that this thread would pop up on Google . It is great to have new posters add to the thread and old posters toss in their two cents and updates on their vehicles . Trip reports , taking out the kids or just taking the truck out of the garage makes for a decent picture and is of interest .
Great to hear from you Gordon .
take care
Bruce

[Gordon Maney]

Hmmmm..... interesting.

If you Google this: dodge carryall forum, it comes up on the first page.

Or, if you Google dodge carryall thread, it comes up, but then it should!

Google is really quick in coming up with things hours after they are posted. I admit, I don't know how it works, so I am uncertain regarding an approach.

Dodge carryall
Dodge carryall
Dodge carryall
Dodge carryall

Getting Dodge carryall to come up on a Google search.

Let's try that. :-)

Dear Google, we have Dodge carryall.

[DavidGB]

Alxj64's tailgate

Alxj64,
At this point your tail gate looks better than most tail gates that Carryall owners start with. You should be feeling very encouraged! Keep up the good work.

Gordon and Bruce,
Regarding Google; at some point I think you have to pay to get more favorable results from Google (if you care.) It is because so many sites do pay that search results often return sites that get in the way of what you really are looking for. You probably already knew this.

DavidGB

[Alxj64]

Alxj64,
At this point your tail gate looks better than most tail gates that Carryall owners start with. You should be feeling very encouraged! Keep up the good work.
DavidGB

Many thanks! I am very pleased with what only a few hours of time and a minor amount of sweat has gotten me thus far.


On a different note, I have a few goofball and random questions... regarding the front bumpers for these trucks... None of the trucks were factory winch trucks correct? Or am I wrong? Secondly, the non winch truck front bumpers were shared with the other 3/4 ton trucks of the same vintage right? What was the purpose of the step-in near the center of the front bumpers for the non winch trucks?

Thirdly, does anyone have any good "profile" and "plan" view images of the front bumpers? Dimensions even possible? Reason I ask is I believe that I may be able to build my own, as it will need a few minor changes similar to the way Mcinfantry mounted his winch fairlead. Don't get me wrong, I appreicate the fact that I can source repro bumpers from John and VPW, but I just think rather than spending the $ there to end up modifying it, I can produce a mostly visually matching bumper but with the changes mine would need from square one. Bumper fabrication is a ways down my list, but its always great to have a plan together as far in advance as possible.

Thanks guys!

[Bruce in BC]

take a look at this one / back thread

Might give you some ideas of what to do with your winch - either that or get real smart and mount the winch on the drivers side behind the door and have a receiver hitch front and back .
http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...t=5521&page=39
The center section on mine is 36" x 8" the tapered ends are 15 " more on each side .
If I was going to do it again I might go 36 " x 9 " just to clean up the view from the front . About 1" of the winch tray hangs below the bumper

[DavidGB]

Front Bumper

Alxj64,
You are correct in that to my knowledge no Carryall(s) came with a front winch. The original correct bumper is a one piece affair. All that being said, it is fairly common to see Carryalls retrofitted with a winch. Easy enough to do.
DavidGB

[HRT5SLCFD]

Bumper drop

The bumpers on the non winch trucks are dropped to allow the hand crank to fit. There's a hole on the lower section of the radiator that lines up with the crank. If done right, the hole in the bumper, radiator, and the crank will all line up.
All of the WC 3/4 ton non winch bumpers will fit. WC 53's and 54's did NOT come with a winch, but they sure look cool with them.

James

[Alxj64]

Thanks for all of the replies! I really appreciate it.

I am hunting for a dimension. I am trying to get the truck back squared... err Rounded the way it should be and was wondering if anyone with a straight truck could snag a dimensions for me. If you look in the picture I attached, there is a red string-line horizontal across the back of the truck from post to post. That is my reference line... I was wondering if someone could give me the dimension of the body seam shown in the Centerline of the truck out from the stringline? The dimension is to the inner seam of the step and NOT the outer face of the body metal. I want to frame up the hinge mount frame and stuff then will sheet the rear face beyond that. I need to get my gate hinges where they belong first.



I want to make sure I rebuild this thing back where it needs to be. With a smashed gate and smashed lower cross member its hard for me to get a good point to call it "good" and start building back to, especially the way the steel wants to shrink back to crushed can mode.

What dimensions are you guys getting? And also, what is the width of the gate opening at the inner face of the seam.

[Alxj64]

Also, it would be cool to see this gallery linked to the first post in this thread. HUGE complete photo gallery of a single truck. I have printed a few pictures from it to hang in the shop for reference while working on mine lately.

http://svsm.org/gallery/wc53?page=1

[DavidGB]

Photos

Alxj64,
Excellent resource. I have saved that link.
Thanks,
DavidGB

[Bruce]

Great Album

Also, it would be cool to see this gallery linked to the first post in this thread. HUGE complete photo gallery of a single truck. I have printed a few pictures from it to hang in the shop for reference while working on mine lately.

http://svsm.org/gallery/wc53?page=1

I'm impressed, quite a collection!
Thanks For Sharing,

[Bruce in BC]

Measurement at bottom gate .

this is a tough one . The metal rolls or is radiused and the radius is almost 3/16 . So the measurement from the inside to the beginning of the radius is 1 1/2 inches . The measurement to the outside of the radius is about 1 5/8 to 1 11/16 .
If you wish to make life easier pull off the rear skin below the door . The bottom frame will be much easier to straighten and repair broken welds . The hinges bolt to this brace . You can then straighten out the skin with out a lot of work .
Great link , I can not add it to the thread at the beginning but maybe Gordon could . My intention was to add or remove links to the first post but the edit feature seems to have a time period . With an active thread such as this one being able to edit the first post would be quite helpful .

Bruce

[Alxj64]

Bruce in BC, thanks for those dimensions! I am going to try and build a new rear cross member from scratch, the stuff thats under the sheet metal is just straight up trashed from when the truck was rear ended. The hinge mounts are horribly tweaked, not to mention lots of random old attachments and such.

I did manage to cut the interior panel out on the side that was wrinkled worse, this alleviated some stress and the body straightened out a good bit more. The black is that spray on liner stuff that McInfantry applied all over the truck. Its making it a bit difficult to do ANYTHING at all to the sheetmetal because this stuff doesn't want to react to force the way regular metal does.








Also, any suggestions on this repair? Cut out two separate areas and make the repair? I need to pick up some cold roll sheet to cut my patch panels from.

[Bruce in BC]

Cold rolled is the only way to go .

Cold rolled and clean the day llghts out of it before welding . If you have a tig go that route . If not tack on one inch spaces and then fill in between . .O23 wire if your machine will push it and "easy grind if you can find it . One trick I am now adding to my arsenal . Phosphate acid . Clean the area with phosphate acid , let it dry , then wipe the area with wax and grease remover , NOT BRAKE CLEANER ! The welds work way better and have less spatter .
So after you strip the paint and the gunk go one step further and remove all signs of rust .

Two panels and butt weld them You may need to make each panel out of more than one piece . I think the patch should fold and follow the old metals design into the inside . If you do the bottom and then the top piece you can weld the metal on the inside flange .

Bruce

Do not use muriatic acid - it cleans metal and then makes everything around it rust 100 times faster than it should , it is bad for your lungs and hard to neutralise

[Alxj64]

What gage thickness has everyone been using for their repair panels on the body?