The WC53 Carryall thread .

[dieseldude4bt]

Alxj64, I also must work on my tailgate and need those same pieces from your very nice stamp set. Would you be willing to make some for sale? email me at dieseldude4bt@gmail.com

[Bruce in BC]

Alxj64 - those pictures are megascrumptdoolieishus

Yah have an article there , what with your stamping die - email them to Gordon and a little blurb about what you have created , goota be worth a years subscription . That rear piece that you have created for under the tail gate is worth maybe another six months or a year . that is a piece of art .Those pieces are cool .
I could make use of the stamped pieces too .
The rear in my Carryall is a dana 70 , I think the pinion bearing will be fine .
Of interest - Dana 60 front axles . I have a Ford case and the low pinion case from a 93 dodge . The 93 Dodge is beefier in the webs that travel down to the outer tube area . The perches are about an inch higher on the Dodge than the Ford . Dodge outer parts and the Cs are beefier than the Ford parts . The newer none king pin Dana 60s may have beefier cases than their older counterparts .

Bruce

You guys are rocking
Got my welder hot enough that the fan is on , and no I am not working on the Carryall .........unless the wood stove ends up in side the truck .

[Alxj64]

Thanks for the compliments guys. If I can find some time maybe I'll get something together and send in the details to Gordon for publishing of it. I am so busy all the time that its hard enough to find time to work on the WC, much less write about it.

As for sharing the parts, the downside is that the radius is for whatever radius the old gate on the truck was, mixed with a minor change that I made. I raised the sill height just a touch to reduce the height difference between the floor and the sill, mainly to make it easier to clean out the truck, move things in and out, etc. I can still make some parts for you guys and if you add a little metal to your gate corners you can math the radius a little better as its also a broader curve. I can measure the radius if you want and give you that number first so you can maybe try and compare it.

On the D60 front, there is no doubt that the outers, esepecially the knuckles are the strongest on the Dodge stuff. I have witnessed the Ford knuckles failing on trail rigs on multiple occasions and that always leaves for a long afternoon/evening of dragging a non steering truck down a mountain side to get it out of the woods. Usually it fails when a high steer bracket is used. The thin area below the upper kingpin bushing housing where it transitions down to the spindle bolt ring is where it fails. High steer arm gets leverage over the king pin and the tire is hung or under a large torque load and with a decent large offset wheel and tire combo, that leverage gets compounded and "Pop" goes the weasel.

When it comes to the strength of a front 60 though, the high pinion ford still has more umph though simply on the fact that the gear sets are "reverse cut" so the ring teeth are still being driven on the "drive side", ie the convex edge. The teeth are curved and in a rear axle application the forward force is applied to the top of the curve (think arched bridge) which is much stronger and less likely to break. In a front axle application, a low pinion (standard in a rear application) will have to turn backwards internally thus the pinion gear is loading the "coast" side of the ring gear teeth. This coast side is convex and bowl shaped and thus is much more likely to fail under loads. Additionally, the high pinion housing requires less ribbing for the pinion support and case supports as once again driving on the drive side vs the coast side applys less eccentric loading on the carrier and carrier bearings.

I did just think of an internal weakness the '78-79 ford axles have and thats the neck down axle shafts. They shafts tend to fail in a thinner section area that is outside of the carrier, but that can be a good thing as its less likely to cause a swelling at the splines and cause any internal damage to the differential.

Here is a link to the most informative and accurate Dana 60 guide on the entire internet.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/

[dieseldude4bt]

photo update

trying to learn how to post photos for updates



my carryall is an early 1942 WC26 that makes it a 1/2 ton, so it sits about 4" higher on the frame than the 3/4 ton. the floor board is flat and trans is under it.

[dieseldude4bt]

motor mounts

left side motor mount

right side

engine sets as close to the firewall as i could get it so I can run Dodge acc. drive set and fan.
I may also mount twin turbo's on it, an hx30 over an hy35 or an hx35.

[Desoto61]

I'm surprised at how low it sits. Maybe because you have it back, or maybe it's the difference in frame design between the PW and the Caryall, but mine sits far higher. Part of that is because it has to go forward to run the divorced T-case, but even then my trans output is slightly lower than the t-case input as is, plus I was trying to minimize interference with the oil pan on the front axle.

[dieseldude4bt]

My transmission is as close to the floor as I could get it, as I said the early 42's have a flat floor no trans hump so the engine sets low in the frame. It is at the same crank center line as the original if I recall correctly.
I have 3" of clearance between the oil pan and the dodge dana 60 and is the same as the doner truck, I think. Its been a while since I insalled the engine.
The early 1/2 tons have a very flat frame untill the rear axle.

[Alxj64]

Dieseldude4bt, how long are those front springs and how wide? I see they are fairly flat under chassis load; and with the 3" you mention above is that total compression clearance at the moment or is it distance longitudinally from the face of the oil pan sump?

[dieseldude4bt]

springs

the springs are from a 1992 dodge 3/4 gasser with a leaf or two from a cummins diesel truck, I wanted softer springs than the diesel but stiffer than the gasser.
The suspension will bottom on the pan at the same time as it hits the frame. With some good bump stops we should be fine, if not more lift.


Edit: springs are 48" long 2.5" wide

[W_A_Watson_II]

Will the front axle fully compress with out hitting the oil pan or bottom of the engine?

[Bruce in BC]

rear valance

A couple of shots of the rear valance that fits under the rear tailgate . I had this one made up by a metal banger . It pretty much the same as a stock WC53 valance .

[dieseldude4bt]

valance

Mine has been cut off side supports need rebuilding.

spring plates hit frame first but it will get bump stops, or air bags if I don't like the ride.

[Alxj64]

A couple of shots of the rear valance that fits under the rear tailgate . I had this one made up by a metal banger . It pretty much the same as a stock WC53 valance .

That looks sharp! I made the mistake of using a heavy gauge sheet metal which has been proving to be a pain to form. However this way its less prone to little stupid dents from using the truck on a day to day basis as I have all sorts of grand plans for mine, ranging from towing the airstream, to carrying surfboards out onto the beach. I can't wait to get it done but I do enjoy the process as well. I wish I could afford to retire now and just work on my Carryall all day, everyday.

Additionally I have an illness and general weakness for these trucks... As everytime I find one of these trucks... I want to buy it. For being so few of them left, I sure do see a what seems like a lot of them for sale. Then again I have a problem of looking for them like I am still trying to find the one I already have.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1942-...item5aea7863e6


Also, I got the hinges sank into my truck and got it all in place and attached to the body with the body mount holes lined up really well. The body still has a little bit of a twist in it. About a 1/4" over the length of the gate opening @ ~46", but once the body mount hardware is in place and drawn down I am fairly confident that the truck will be as square as it probably was when it was new in 1942.



I also set the old banged up gate on it, but since its still "flat" it won't quite fit, literally by about an 1/8" of width, but otherwise its looking decent I think.

[Bruce in BC]

Carryall on ebay

Ok we got a carryall that has the back half cut off with a torch . The old 1/2 is there . There are patch panels from another carryall . The lower tailgate has shot gun holes in it . The seller thinks this is " AN EASY FIX " and then the classic quote " NO RESERVE " but the starting bid is $3850 . IMHO when you quote a minimum starting price you have set a reserve .
This is not an easy fix , it is one darn big job and those flat panels warp worse when welded than a curved one .
That said the truck should be saved , if it is truly rust free . Even fixing the body and taking it to a stage that someone else could finish it would be worth while but that work would be worth a couple of grand . The truck is too far away and too expensive for me to consider , but it did get me thinking about those lower flat panels . The solution is easy - weld them in first . it would be possible to get at the weld from both sides and stretch or shrink the metal by hammer welding those panels . Once the rear cab is in place this could not be done .
I think there is more of these trucks around than the records indicate .

Bruce

edit - I am at a nice place with my carryall , it is no longer "work "
When it was outside and in pieces I had to work on it every day in an effort to beat the weather . sand blasting , scraping , welding , painting , tear down , moving and assemble all had to get done before the weather turned . I busted me butt and worked at it every day for several months. The only breaks were when I was guiding or on callouts . Now that the frame is together and rolled back in the shop i can tinker on it whenever i have the time and want to work on it . It is not a job any more .

[dieseldude4bt]

Bruce good job on getting it out of the "work" catagory and in to "enjoyment" it makes a big differance in your mind set.

Alxj64 is that pipe something you put in? Does it stay? Or just a brace?