Windshield regulator attachment to frame

[lostswede]

Dave - I had the exact problem when I installed my windshield and regulator. I had to make some shims that I put between the hinge and cab body to lower the windshield frame - this also helped with sealing of the weatherstrip.
Stefan

[Doc Dave]

Hi Lostswede,
Thank you for your response. That makes some sense to me. Did the shim fit between the cab mount and the more horizontal portion of the hinge, the one that is bolted up, rather than the one that is vertical and held in by screws?

[lostswede]

That's right - the horizontal portion of hinge. I made the spacers out of sheet metal and slotted the bolt holes so I would not have to remove the mounting bolts. Just loosen them and slide the spacers in place. You will have to play around with the thickness to get the desired results.

[Doc Dave]

Stefan,
I think you have the answer why it is still binding when I am toward the completely closed position. I will try the sheet metal spacers and let everyone know.
It is amazing all the little intracacies of these trucks. For example, I found out a year ago or so about he mystery of the vacuum activated carb and now this about the windshield frame. I guess the guys on the production line knew what to do in such cases, but that was 58 years ago.
Thanks!

[pwdave]

Dave, did it work? Dave.

[Doc Dave]

I worked for quite awhile on it today. Shimming the windshield down helped it a little bit. But, the regulator still binds up when it gets the windshield close to final closing. When the windshield is not attached, there is no binding in the regulator. IT still seems like the attachment point on the windshield is a little high for when the tape is getting near being mostly retraacted. I am thinking of doing one of two things, shimming the top at least 3/16" down (I have two layers of 16 gauge sheet metal now as shimms), or make a small fixed bracket for the bottom of the windshield frame that projects down a bit, to allow the little tape bracket to attach about 1/2" lower. If that works I will let the group know.
I am not sure but I suspect this frame was taken apart in the past and repaired in some way, maybe for corrosion. In doing so it might have had its dimensions altered. One other clue in addition to the appearance of the newer appearing sealing compound of the windshield is that it was screwed down into the cab opening when I bought it, and the regulator was partially missing. I wonder if they had the same trouble I am having after the windshield was worked on?
I wish I could "talk" to the truck and find out, LOL

[Doc Dave]

update of windshield

Well, I think I have the problem solved, what a bear!
I am a little red faced about this, but while researching the problem I saw a post in the archives where someone said it is really easy to put the rubber gasket in backwards. It fits around the frame just as easily as the
right" way, and looks o.k.
But, it prevents the windshield from seating properly.
So, I reversed the gasket and that helped a lot with it closing more normally. THere was still some binding of the regulator just before it closed tight, so I shimmed it like Lotswede said, and that was the ticket. IT took 2 pieces of 16 guage sheet metal on each side to drop it down 1/8" That allowed the regulator to fully retract.
There is a tiny bit of daylight at one end between the gasket and cab, but I think I can work that out by having my son push on the window and then retighten the machine screws to the cab.

[Tom Petroff]

Hi Dave,
Glad you got it corrected. Never thought to ask about the seal,ha
How's the fuel sender issue?
Ever get a chance the check it.
Take Care My Friend,
TGP

[Doc Dave]

Tom,
I have got busy with the windshield, door glass and side view mirrors, and plan to get back to the gauges after that is done.
Before I do the diagnostics from the pages you kindly send me, I have one symptom to mention to you all on the forum here that might be important.
Remember that I said the sender is a new repro from VPW and has free travel. The gauge is one I bought from P.W. John and he thought it was good.
When the ignition is "off" the gauge does not just go to "E" or a little to the left of E, it pegs all the way over the left upper part of the gauge. When the ignition is on, it goes immediately to just past half and is steady, even though the tank is full.
Could the innards of the gauge be off a little as far as being rotated toward the "e" side? I was thinking that if the needle went only over to just left of E when off, and had the same travel toward F when on, it would be just about spot on F to reflect the full tank.
Comments?

[Tom Petroff]

Dave,
With the sending unit disconnected from the gauge and power to the gauge(key on)
The gauge needle should stay next to the stop pin on the left(empty)
Momentarily ground the sender wire and the needle should go all the way to the right showing full.
If the gauge reads anything other than empty when powered and the sender disconnected the gauge is at fault,or miss calibrated.
TGP

[Doc Dave]

Thanks Tom,
I will try that test out this weekend.
Dave