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46 Power Wagon Restoration pt. 2

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  • Overflow Tank

    Looking good there, aluminum welding can be tricky but I think you have got the hang of it.

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    • Originally posted by Bob2 View Post
      Looking good there, aluminum welding can be tricky but I think you have got the hang of it.
      Thanks, surprisingly I found it easier than the steel TIG work I had done earlier. I'm thinking some of it is the Lanthanated tungsten vice the Thoriated, as even the steel welding I've done with them seemed to go better. But yes, it is quite different.

      I ended up with about four small leaks and those only showed when I put some pressure behind the water and were easily fixed.

      Though lesson learned: I had one corner that got pretty ugly and now that I think about it I was trying to weld the container closed, so I was probably getting air inside the tank pushing out and contaminating the weld site. Should have left it open till I drilled the filler cap opening and then finished it.

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      • amazing...

        This is an insane build. Am amazed at your skill level AND tenacity. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing.

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        • Thanks, I'm good at jumping in the deep end on this stuff. It's exciting and frustrating all at the same time.

          I managed to get the two weld-in bungs for the inlet and overflow fittings. They probably would have looked better welded in from the back side, but that wasn't possible so they were welded from the outside, but they're not real visible so not a big issue. A pair of fittings finish it off, the bottom will come from the radiator, and the side will run down beside the radiator as an overflow.

          I looked at another mount, there is a little flex in the rear wall, but most of the options I looked at would make later removal very tricky, so I'll leave it and see if it really needs additional support.

          Also got glass installed in the windshield frame. Had it glued in, it will be a pain to remove again if needed, but it probably wouldn't be me doing it. My bigger concern was keeping water out, the frames are expensive and getting harder to find, and the tape just doesn't provide the same seal.

          The gasket around the outside was a real bear, I read up on it before hand but in some places it almost seemed to go in too easily, and on others not at all, but I think I managed it. The problem came when I put it back on the truck, the fit is different, the center doesn't sit as close as it did before, and the opener mechanism isn't working quite right. It's always frustrating, since now there's paint everywhere to be damaged.

          Removed the opener mechanism, need to think about this one a bit, go through it carefully.
          Attached Files

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          • We had a warm snap, so I worked to get the last couple of pieces of the front end sheet metal painted today. That was the cowl, some trim, and the inside edges of the hood halves. Also picked up two items from the powder coater, one being one of the VPW rims I got, so I can test mount a tire once I decide what I'm buying.

            With the painting done for the time being I can pull the frame back in the garage and put the cab on it and start installing things.
            Attached Files

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            • Your work and the way this truck is looking is amazing.
              I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

              Thanks,
              Will
              WAWII.com

              1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
              1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
              1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
              1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
              2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

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              • Finished assembling the hood halves. Blasted the hinge rods and greased them lightly then carefully tapped them back into place. Reinstalled the springs over the latches using some stainless metric washers (they had a smaller OD) between the cotter pins and the spring, and then re-installed the prop rods with some new hardware. I won't probably install it till I have more of the engine work done.

                Installed the rear window glass, the glass shop gave me a tube of the urethane they use. I used some rubber as a spacer to help center the glass, and taped off the outside of the opening. Then I cleaned everything and put a bead around the opening and set the glass in place, pressing it into the bead. I went a little too light on the bead as it didn't quite squish out into the outside so I had to fill that from the outside after I glued around the window on the inside. I then removed the spacers and filled that area with sealant too. It's not a perfect job but it's definitely in there and sealed. I can clean up some of the outside after it sets.

                I also did the side windows, cleaning the channels and then putting a bead of urethane in the bottom before pressing the glass into it. First time again wasn't enough so I had to back fill it from the top, second time was better. Biggest thing is making sure you get the front of the channel and glass right for each side, I wouldn't want to have to remove these.

                Also spent some more time playing with the windshield frame. I cut two shims for the driver's side to help lower the frame, which helped somewhat. The passenger side needed to move up and in slightly, both of which were managed with adjustments to the stock hinges. Also modified the opener slightly to reduce the angle between open and close, and make it a little more stable.

                End result is much better, the gap at the center is still a little big but the gasket is sealed. The opener struggles against it though, once it softens and sets into shape it should work a little better. I may have to consider using the stronger linear motor if not.
                Attached Files

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                • It's lookin good man. I like your threaded inserts around the rear window. Mine has several different size sheet metal screws. Any time someone stripped one they just went up a number.

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                  • Never been a big fan of regular sheet metal screws, so since I had the nut-sert tool I figured I'd use it. Only problem is been one of the holes being slightly off. May have to drill it out and adjust.

                    Got the passenger side door glass installed successfully. Still had some clearance issues with the door latch so I ended up spacing it back slightly with some washers. The driver's side however was cut just slightly larger, and wouldn't fit. Hopefully they can trim it.

                    Found the best way to install it was to drop it in from the top, and loosen the front channel bolts so it can move then put the glass in the rear channel, then flex the front channel to get the glass into it. Then I could push it up and with the regulator turned upward work one of the arms into it's channel, then start opening it till I could slide the other arm into the second channel. At that point I could open the regulator and move the window till I got the regulator back into it's opening and then fasten it down.

                    Also worked on the windshield wipers. Connected the switch to the motor, and cycled it to the park position and connected the linkage ends. I had to adjust the rod length to get the pivots into the right range so they didn't hit at either end of their travel. Then I could install the wiper arm and blade, but I'm not real happy with them. The arm was an adjustable piece for various applications, and the blade was an 11" classic blade. The connection was kind of loose and the blade not real sturdy. It tends to want to lay on it's side too much. I tried a Jeep blade to go with the Jeep pivot, but that also uses the same connection style and a blade from a different manufacturer but it was no better.

                    I may have to take a trip to the junkyard. I found a more modern 11" blade but need to track down an arm that uses it and fits the Jeep pivot. I may need to just shorten a longer arm from something else.

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                    • One of the hardest things about this build is finding room. I have the painted hood and fenders, but I still have a lot of work to do in the engine compartment, so they need a safe place to hide. With those stashed in a hopefully safe place I could put the cab on the lift and then roll the frame back in and put them back together.

                      With the help of a friend we managed to push the frame back into place (I'll be really glad when this thing can move under it's own power), and slowly set the frame back into place. I ended up sitting too close to the trans so I had to cut and install another thickness of Urethane sheet, though it's still tight, so I may need to shim it a little higher.

                      Now comes the slow process of piecing everything back together. I did fit the overflow tank in the cowl and put it in place just to see how it all looked.
                      Attached Files

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                      • Finally got caught back up on this thread and man it looks great! You are moving right along at a fast pace too! The light at the end of the tunnel is fast approaching!
                        1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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                        • It's a strange feeling putting things back together for what is hopefully the last time for a long while.

                          Most of the progress is little things, fasteners, brackets, and hoses. One of the side tasks was to finish assembling the intercooler piping. The piping kit was universal and had beads rolled on each end, naturally when you cut the pipe down those flanges go away. After some research the two options I found to do so were a bead roller, which is a rather expensive tool for what I needed. The second option was to make a set of flanging pliers out of a pair of cheap vicegrip pliers and an exhaust clamp.

                          Just weld the clamp to one jaw and a piece of metal to the other such that it sits in the middle of the clamp when closed. It worked OK, not the most attractive beads but under the boots it won't matter. Kind of hard on the hands, and it damaged the paint but still for only a few bucks it worked well enough.
                          Attached Files

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                          • In the future, if you need this done.. let me know. After Christmas I'll have a bead roller that is setup for doing this. I already have the dies on hand.. just waiting for that little bit of extra $ to get the machine ordered.

                            I'm envious of your progress! Get it done! I want to go for a ride in this thing!
                            1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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                            • Originally posted by Alxj64 View Post
                              In the future, if you need this done.. let me know. After Christmas I'll have a bead roller that is setup for doing this. I already have the dies on hand.. just waiting for that little bit of extra $ to get the machine ordered.

                              I'm envious of your progress! Get it done! I want to go for a ride in this thing!
                              Good to know. Yea, $$$ is really going to be the limiting factor here too. I need to order a new Dodge emblem for the hood, but they're like $150, which I hate to spend right now, but I'm not going to be able to install it after the cowl is bolted in place, which I'm about ready to do.

                              Exhaust is the next big hurdle. Need to start determining the parts for that. Have a muffler just need the turbo outlet, piping, and hangers.

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                              • Thread has been great, keep the pics coming!

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