46 Power Wagon Restoration pt. 2

[Desoto61]

More side tasks

Since I had to shim the cab higher than planned, I'm going to need to shim the radiator cowl up to compensate and eventually to get a final hood alignment. So I cut up some blocks out of different thicknesses of metal I had around. I built a cardboard template and used that with the plasma cutter to cut blanks, then drilled out the mounting holes. Also required me to cut loose and weld in a longer set of bolts. A couple of coats of chassis paint will get them ready to go in.

On the exhaust front it's time to hang it from the truck, till now it has just been sitting on jack stands. I bought a set of stainless hanger rods and the rubber isolators that go with them. Along with some stainless bar stock it's just a matter of figuring out good mounting points and building a few brackets. Got a chance to use the hand control on my TIG unit, worked well for tacking the braces in place.

[Desoto61]

I ended up using three mounting points, one toward the front of the cab, one just aft of the transfer case, and a final one just behind the muffler. With those bolted to the frame and the exhaust side of the hangers tacked in place (or bolted) I can take it apart and look into finishing all the welds eventually.

[Bruce in BC]

Exhaust routing

There is nothing wrong with turning it towards the front off the truck and exiting it out by the tire. You end up with a tail pipe that is sort of question mark in shape. Sounds like it would look silly but in practice it looks like a stock part.
What brand are the stainless hangers? Where are they available from?

[Desoto61]

The rods are from Hooker Headers, though I've seen other brands. The PN is 41161HKR for a pair, or 41162HKR for a pack of 10. Isolators are also from Hooker and are PN 41163HKR (1 pair), or 41164HKR (10). I got them through Summit Racing. I'm sure most of the major exhaust companies have something similar, but that worked for me time and price wise.

They're very nice, and I didn't think the price was too bad for a pair of 12" long 1/2" diameter 304 stainless rods. I bought the 10-pack of hangers, and two pair of isolators, which will be just about right if I do extend the exhaust out under the side.

Only problem is you'd need something with a lot of force to bend one of those, so I was kind of stuck making sure everything was straight, which worked OK. The one exception was I cut one in half part way back (long ways) and wrapped that around the front hanger. Though that was before I bought the bar stock, and what convinced me to use it instead, a lot of work and mess for an end result that's not as flexible or clean in the end.

Edit: you can kind of see it in that last picture above.

[Desoto61]

Gauges came today. Very nice, didn't get a lot of time to play, but did get to mount them into the gauge panel and look over the wiring. Big advantage is I can run the gauge wires and that should be just about everything. Then I can start locking down all the wires and making final connections.

They're from Speed Hut. The design isn't very wild, but it fits the truck and are very capable. All the basics are there plus an EGT gauge. Hopefully I can get the exhaust welded up this weekend and be that much closer to getting a chance to fire the engine in the frame.

[Alxj64]

Lookin good man. Hit me up tomorrow in regards to the regulator.

[cartridge]

1946 Power Wagon project

I've enjoyed reading your old post. I also have a 1946 PW. Serial # 1368. Had the old girl for 36 years. Never knew about this site or what I actually had until 3 years ago I decided to restore her. Sitting outside all this time in western Michigan had taken its toll. Removed the cab, the box had been custom made in 1949 out of wood (all rotted out). Had the engine professionally rebuilt. It was amazing how good most of the body/ frame etc was. A place near me (that until now I never knew they existed) rebuilt the windshield frame/new glass. Got like new/old front fenders, NOS running boards, all related braces from Vintage. Got to build a new bed yet but first I have a clunking noise in the front axle to check out. Been working on this project for about 5 years now. Lot of work, lot of fun

[Desoto61]

Welcome to the site, careful though you start feeding the addiction and it will never leave!

Well as you can see we like pictures, so by all means throw up a thread and let us see what you're playing with!

[bilfman]

Sorry to jack the thread a bit. Hey cartridge I had a front driveshaft clunk as well, it was the rubber trans mounts were loose from time, caused the shaft to rub and clunk. Might be your issue. Just tightened them up and problem solved.

[PaulD]

Thanks a lot!!

Hey Desoto61, first of all thanks for wasting almost an entire day. I found this thread and had to read every post because I got hooked on the build. You really have provided a great resource of information. Second, because reading great build threads like this is inspiring I pulled the trigger on a 56 PW I'd found a couple miles from my house. Always wanted to buy it but resisted until now. Now my wife is mad and I have a ton of work (fun) ahead.
Seriously, thanks for the great detail you've included to help others following with their builds. Yours is looking fantastic!

[cartridge]

Font end clunk

Appreciate your idea of what might be causing my front end clunk. I'm busying for the next few days but will look into it soon. I'll try for pictures

[Desoto61]

Hey Desoto61, first of all thanks for wasting almost an entire day. I found this thread and had to read every post because I got hooked on the build. You really have provided a great resource of information. Second, because reading great build threads like this is inspiring I pulled the trigger on a 56 PW I'd found a couple miles from my house. Always wanted to buy it but resisted until now. Now my wife is mad and I have a ton of work (fun) ahead.
Seriously, thanks for the great detail you've included to help others following with their builds. Yours is looking fantastic!

Ha! It's a double edged sword. I wanted to make sure there was the detail that others crazy (stupid?) enough to follow would find helpful on both what (not) to do, but also make sure people knew what they were getting themselves into. The climb to the top never looks as long as it is, I started this figuring it would be 3 or 4 years. I think I'm looking at 6 or 7 now and still not as close as I think I am.

I'm excited, but trying to keep my expectations realistic. This isn't going to be "done", I'm sure there will be stuff that isn't going to work as well as it needs to or should. Just hoping that the major stuff is right. Actually need to post up some of my recent mistakes, just haven't had the time.

Well, for better or worse it will be a learning experience and that can never be a bad thing. Just return the favor and start a thread and let us all know what you're doing. Include plenty of pics because we all like to see what's going on. Good luck and welcome to the madness!

[Desoto61]

Thanks to AlxJ, I backpurged the piping and welded up the seams in the exhaust piping. I would weld a section of each joint, then rotate the pipe to get at another section and repeat. It helped let each joint cool between welds, though some of my less-tight gaps had to be sealed with tape to prevent the gas from leaking out. The end result might not be anything a welder would want to lay claim to, but for me some of it is almost good, and should be strong enough for what I want. I also finished welding and cleaning up the mounting brackets to the piping as well. Afterward all the seams got hit with a wire brush to clean them up a little and get rid of any discoloration.

Somehow it all seemed to fit right before I took it apart to weld. While it went back together well enough the rear two mounts were somehow further back then before. The rubber mounts accounted for the movement but it's always frustrating when it comes off one way and doesn't go back together the same way.

Still not sure if I'm just going to leave the downturn or weld in a longer pipe exiting in front of the rear tire. Plus side is being after the muffler I can easily change it later once I have the running boards and correct tires in place and build it then.

[Desoto61]

I had to shim the cab higher than during my mockup phase for some reason as it was contacting the transmission. This meant that the radiator cowl also would have to be raised to make the hood fit correctly. It also means the clearances I had before are all different. I built some spacer plates to go between the radiator cowl and the frame, but that changes fit of the radiator hoses, fans, and connections. I had to build a new mounting plate with longer bolts as well. It also was needed to try and keep the clearance between the brake booster and the hood. I originally angled the booster assembly up to clear the motor, raising the cab means I didn't need as much angle, and also removed the minor clearance I was going to have to the hood. I used a straight edge first to get an idea and still had issues. So I found a different, shorter master cylinder tank to try and add some space, and then tried test fitting the hood.

The end result wasn't good. Two issues became apparent. First I was close but still hitting the hood. I could close it but it was pressing into the hood. Second the prop rods for each side want to rest right where my cruise control box is mounted.

For the clearance issues I basically decided to add some stainless washers between the top of the booster mount to flatten the angle down since I had plenty of extra clearance to the motor now. Afterward I ended up thinking that I had probably not shimmed the cab to the same level I had before, and it was slanted slightly rearward, which would explain what's been causing part of the clearance problems. I may add some shimms to the rear, but that will again cause other problems, so for now we'll try the booster shims.

Still not sure what to do about the hood props, but at least the hood gaps seem to be pretty even, if maybe a little large, that's a plus.

[Greg Coffin]

You might consider removing the hood props and using 1/2ton WC hood stays instead. I hate the PW style props. They are hard on the hood, and difficult to disengage. Just a thought.