Just can't get the 251 out- how's it done??

[im02crazy]

Truck's up on the rack and the mechanic can't figure out how to get the 251 out of the truck. What's the best way to remove the engine?

He tells me the flywheel does not clear the bell housing. I'm 200 miles away and am no help.

Do we drop the tranny? Is there an easier/ better way to do this??

Gotta get it done and looking for your guidance.

Thanks.

[Frank Irons]

I would remove the transmission and pull the rest. Leave the bellhousing on.

Frank

[im02crazy]

engine pull

thanks Frank. I'll pass this on.

[Mark Foster]

Eng. Pull

It wont , Frank has it right. Then drive out the dowl pins, unbolt and shake, shimmy and swear a little to remove the bellhousing upwards to expose clutch etc.

[Charles Talbert]

Mechanic, are you sure?

Oh my; are you sure you have a mechanic? If he couldn't figure these issue out on his own, I think I might just move on and seek help elsewhere.

Sounds like you may have one of the new techs that are commonly referred to as a parts replacer, and is not a mechanic at all.

[wayneh]

Dave: I'd be a bit worried myself if they can't figure that out how are they going to figure out how to put the distributer and wires back on when Jasper sends it back? When I look at pulling min I'd pull the fenders off so I could reach things, same thing for the winch.

Wayne

[Charles Talbert]

Dave: I'd be a bit worried myself if they can't figure that out how are they going to figure out how to put the distributer and wires back on when Jasper sends it back? When I look at pulling min I'd pull the fenders off so I could reach things, same thing for the winch.

Wayne

I expect these issues could well get to be interesting.

You make a good point on having the fenders removed, that's the first thing we do. It will come out with the winch still in place. We also figured out right up front that the engine is easiest pulled with the transmission still attached to the bellhousing, and everything pulled as a single unit. Just remove the top cover from the trans is all that needs to come off to make it happen. Reinstall the power unit by reversing the procedure. Removing the trans, any clutch work, etc can be done on the stand instead of under the truck; 10,000 times easier.

[im02crazy]

out and on the road, finally!

Thanks for the effective advice. They got the unit out, on the skid, and off to Jasper. I think the basic problem was lack of experience with the truck and clearances. Once I provided the manual's steps and your suggestions they felt more comfortable pulling it. Yes, everything on the truck is heavy, but that's one of the reasons it's unique and my favorite. Next trauma; remanufacturing process. I'm hoping this goes smoothly at Jasper. I will thoroughly document and post every phase step by step on

http://flyingtigertransport.com

I purchased the full documentation package which I will post along with a blow by b,ow of the process. Thanks again to those of you who hold and share the secrets of the Power Wagon!

[wayneh]

Great update, please keep us posted. Will they rebuild the starter, generator and carb with it? And do you know if they run it before sending it back to check it out?

I'm not a "real" mechanic, but I am meticulous and I think mechanically inclinded. I still needed some pointers last weekend on pulling my radiator (and cowl...). It seems obvious now, but it sure as heck was not obvious if you have not done it before on this truck! While the rad was out I cleaned that and removed and cleaned out the water distribution tube. (which was plugged up in the last two slots....)

I put the water pump on, and filled it up with water. Simple enough.... but water started GUSHING out the top of the pump at the gasket I made up. Never had that happen before. I made a new much thicker gasket and all is well now, and the overheating problem appears to be gone.

And many thanks to Mr. Talbert for his advice on installing the coolant filter!

Wayne

[im02crazy]

details on engine reman

Good questions, no, unless u request and pay for the rebuilds. Jasper wants a short block shipped to them, minus carb, dizzy, manifolds, watr pump, generator. Jasper does the remanufactur, I'm having the crank balanced as well, then load tests using CNG and a computer based ignition and fuel delivery system. They don't need anything on the short block to run it up. Ill provide all details as they are posted on jasper's tracking site.

I really wanted to use local talent, but it just didn't work for various reasons I've outlined earlier in the post.

[Charles Talbert]

Good questions, no, unless u request and pay for the rebuilds. Jasper wants a short block shipped to them, minus carb, dizzy, manifolds, watr pump, generator. Jasper does the remanufactur, I'm having the crank balanced as well, then load tests using CNG and a computer based ignition and fuel delivery system. They don't need anything on the short block to run it up. Ill provide all details as they are posted on jasper's tracking site.

I really wanted to use local talent, but it just didn't work for various reasons I've outlined earlier in the post.

I would certainly expect one would have to pay extra for accessory rebuilds. I wonder what they would charge to do a FULL nothing left unturned rebuild including all accessories? Did you happen to ask that question; or do they offer a complete job like that?

You mentioned the crank would be balanced. Exactly what does that mean? I can only assume it will not be rotationally balanced with the flywheel and pressure plate installed. That would be a huge strike against them for me if they didn't do that, as it isn't worth much to balance just the crank and then bolt components to it that were not part of that process. It has to be balanced just like it will run as an assembly to be truely balanced.

[im02crazy]

Add ons

I really never Thought of asking. Just planned on doing these myself. I'd be happy to ask. Might be fun to hear then prices!

[Gordon Maney]

I would certainly expect one would have to pay extra for accessory rebuilds. I wonder what they would charge to do a FULL nothing left unturned rebuild including all accessories? Did you happen to ask that question; or do they offer a complete job like that?

You mentioned the crank would be balanced. Exactly what does that mean? I can only assume it will not be rotationally balanced with the flywheel and pressure plate installed. That would be a huge strike against them for me if they didn't do that, as it isn't worth much to balance just the crank and then bolt components to it that were not part of that process. It has to be balanced just like it will run as an assembly to be truely balanced.

Do we really want to balance a pressure plate as part of the assembly? Then if you replace the pressure plate assembly you have a problem. Or am I misunderstanding you somehow?

[Charles Talbert]

Do we really want to balance a pressure plate as part of the assembly? Then if you replace the pressure plate assembly you have a problem. Or am I misunderstanding you somehow?

Yes or you will not have a rotationally balanced assembly. If the pressure plate assy is replaced at some point, ideally the new one could be balanced on an arbor set up to a 0 balance. When installed, then it does not affect the original balance set up at all. You would be really surprised at how much smoother an engine will run and perform when a perfect rotational balance is achieved. Cost is only $250 at our machine shop to have the assembly balanced while the crank is out at rebuild time. Money well spent, as it is a proven fact that a perfectly balanced engine will perform better and wear much slower than an engine that is simply assembled out of balance.

If the pressure plate is replaced at some point without being balanced, the system will be out of perfect sync, but no worse than an unbalanced system would have been from the get go. Arbor balancing service is common, and reasonably priced; doesn't make sense not to keep it right in my opinion. The way to do this is to remove the flywheel which will need surfacing anyway at clutch replacement time. Bolt the new pressure plate assy to the flywheel, arbor balance it to 0; bolt it right back onto the crank, and balance will stay near perfect throughout the engine's life.

If you ever once see what a difference perfect balance makes, you would never assemble another engine without it.

[dougdodgeman]

Would'nt arbor balancing a resurfaced flywheel and replacement pressure plate to 0 throw the engine out of balance since the original assembly was probably out of balance the same way the replacement parts were before arbor balancing? Hope that makes sense? Doug