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  • #16
    I completely agree Preaction, I just had not gotten around to it with the wedding, hunting season, then holidays. Needless to say, this is now main focus since I have the time. when I went to check the oil in the filter resivoir it had receided down to the pan, this is of course after I got it back into the heated garage after a day. My assumption, the return line was plugged, or frozen and prevented oil return to the engine causing the overflow. I will drop the pan today and have a look around. Anything I should pay close attention to while looking at the crank and such?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by bmhenry View Post
      I completely agree Preaction, I just had not gotten around to it with the wedding, hunting season, then holidays. Needless to say, this is now main focus since I have the time. when I went to check the oil in the filter resivoir it had receided down to the pan, this is of course after I got it back into the heated garage after a day. My assumption, the return line was plugged, or frozen and prevented oil return to the engine causing the overflow. I will drop the pan today and have a look around. Anything I should pay close attention to while looking at the crank and such?
      You may want to feel for any gross slop in the connecting rods. Seeing as you are doing a complete oil and filter change, you may want to disassemble, clean and inspect the filter canister, supply and return oil lines...maybe even check the preasure relief valve, while you are right there in the neighborhood.

      CD
      1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
      1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
      2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
      1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
      1954 Ford 860 tractor
      1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
      UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

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      • #18
        Ok so here is the major problem that I forgot to mention. This is for a 46' WDX, however the engine is the 251. I went to drop the oil pan and guess what, yep, it wont come out. There isnt enough clearence in the front to drop the pan down to clear the crank shaft from the frame.

        Any ideas on how to get the pan out. I have thought of lifting the engine with a hoist, but I didnt know how much "play" is available. Or if i need to pull the engine completely.

        I look forward to your ideas and suggestions.

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        • #19
          What's in the way, the tie rod?

          Are you supporting the frame and allowing the axle assembly to be as low as possible?
          Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


          Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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          • #20
            There's quite a few inches of lift at the front once the front motor mount is loosened. At least there is with a 230 in it. But, I don't know if that will be enough for you.

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            • #21
              Gordon,

              The pan is having a clearence issue between the front of the crank shaft and the front crossmember in of the frame.

              It sounds like there should be some "wiggle room" once I disconnect the front motor mount. I will try lifing the engine up a little and see if that attains the clearence I need. More to follow and thanks for the replies.

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              • #22
                It's been a long time ago, but I took the pan off my 1948 B1PW without disconnecting a motor mount. I don't remember a problem, as I sit here.
                Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


                Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by bmhenry View Post
                  Gordon,

                  The pan is having a clearence issue between the front of the crank shaft and the front crossmember in of the frame.

                  It sounds like there should be some "wiggle room" once I disconnect the front motor mount. I will try lifing the engine up a little and see if that attains the clearence I need. More to follow and thanks for the replies.
                  Have you tried rotating the crank? Maybe, the pan is hanging up on the front counterweight.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Gordon Maney View Post
                    It's been a long time ago, but I took the pan off my 1948 B1PW without disconnecting a motor mount. I don't remember a problem, as I sit here.
                    Removing the pan on a stock 230 is no problem. I'm surprised that the extra length of the 251 engine is causing a problem.

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                    • #25
                      Gmharris,

                      Thanks for the tip.. I will definately give that a try before lifting the engine... I knew I didnt think of everything. : ) Hopefully this solves the issue.

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                      • #26
                        Status Update. After trying all to no avail.. I had to unbolt the front of the engine and lift it with a hoist. While not what I wanted to do, it worked. SO for future reference, a 251 engine in a 46 FFPW will be too long to just "drop the oil pan. You will need to drop the center link on one side (swing it out of the way), remove the hood, and lift the engine by one of the head bolts. It shouldn't take too long to accomplish this.. You don't need to disconnect the radiator or anything like that, all you need to do is lift the engine in the front by about 1 inch to gain enough clearance. You will also need to rotate the crankshaft to where the counter weight on cylinder one is at either 9 or 6 o'clock to clear the pan.

                        Just thought I would try to help another who might encounter this.

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                        • #27
                          Good work, thank you for sharing.
                          Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


                          Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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