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New to me 1965 WM300
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Mechanical Clutch Adjustment
Manual is still on back order so another question.... is there some adjustability built into the mechanical clutch? I need to double clutch to get into gear sometimes, usually from a dead stop. Sometimes it's hard to get it in gear, other times it grinds a bit. I am not entirely certain of the clutch package condition as a whole. What I am assuming is the TO bearing makes a bit of a whine until I step on the pedal, so there could be a myriad of replacement issues to deal with, but I thought I would start with the more simple if it was an option.
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Service manual just arrived and lo and behold they only discuss the hydraulic clutches. From what I have gleaned on the internet, what I am experiencing (no pedal free play and whirring TO bearing) is from a misaligned clutch. Could someone direct me to some specifics on the mechanical system to rectify the problem?
Have you tried to adjust some free travel into the clutch linkage to stop the throwout bearing from turning?Last edited by Gordon Maney; 03-07-2013, 02:46 PM.
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If it won't go into gear sitting still that suggests the input shaft won't stop turning. Either the clutch won't disengage because the disc is stuck to the flywheel or the pilot is seized [which is unlikely].Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?
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What is the procedure for replacing these 4 part oil pan gaskets , seems like you ask 10 people and you'll get 5 who say to use RTV or equivalent and 5 who say dry. I am using the 4 part FELPRO cork gasket.
My thought was to go dry and use RTV in the 4 corners where the pan meets the crank seal, but what say the guru's...Permatex Aviation or...?
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