New to me 1965 WM300

[Gordon Maney]

Clint has done this more recently than I have, so I defer to his judgment.

[Clint Dixon]

Very interesting, I was thinking about that compression/shrinkage factor, but I guess I under estimated it. Mine is more like what you are talking about, 3/8" on either side, seems like a lot to compress, but I guess I'll give it a go. I am using the "High Tack" Permatex that was suggested earlier.

The adhesive I used was Fel-Cobond 205 "Quick Drying Contact Adhesive. It is kind of a yellow tan in color and is designed for that purpose - to keep the gaskets stuck to the block so the pan would be easier to install. It is not meant to prepare, dress, or seal the gaskets. I also use various Permatex or Lock-Tite products for that.

[defdes]

Much to my shock and awe, it seemed to work the trick. Thanks.
The High Tack worked well to hold the gasket to the block and still allowed me to shift it a bit where needed. Haven't put the oil in yet, but so far so good.

[defdes]

On to the next...
Tried to adjust the "whirrr" out of the TO bearing. Stupidly, I didn't give a listen first to have a "before" to compare to, but I think it helped. I adjusted the yoke shown out of focus in the background, lengthened the rod the amount shown but cant get any more adjustment out of it w/out moving something else. This also moved the clutch pedal towards the driver about 3/4" which I'd ultimately like to adjust back.
That rig in the foreground with the bolt shims is the remote clutch for the winch in the bed. I'd like to disassemble the mechanism to remove that, but I'd like to see some visual info before I do. I have searched high and low for a schematic of this, is there one that anyone knows of?

[Gordon Maney]

First my brain went to PTO, but I realize now you are meaning throwout bearing.

First, let's talk about free travel. Free movement of the clutch pedal before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers. Do you have any free travel?

[defdes]

Quite a bit, actually, seems to be more that I have made this adjustment, at least 2".

[Gordon Maney]

If that is the case, then that is too much. I would have to look, but I am guessing the spec is probably about 1/2 inch.

Your concern is a sound? Is the sound present when the pedal is depressed? When not depressed?

[defdes]

Present when NOT depressed. My thought was that this adjustment would rotate the rod that's connected to the pedal linkage which connects to the arm actuating the TO bearing in such a way to pull the TO bearing AWAY from the clutch. This is why I was looking for an exploded view schematic!

Let me add that in addition to the whirring noise when the pedal is out, the clutch was VERY jumpy, hard to do smooth starts from a dead stop and once it was engaged, it was either on or off, very hard to feather.

[Gordon Maney]

Given your added comment, I believe your clutch needs to come out for inspection.

Also, purchase a service manual [nice reprints are available from Vintage Power Wagons], it will be very helpful. Reducing free travel will not solve either of these problems.

[defdes]

Just spent a little time with it, removed that additional piece of clutch engagement hardware for the PTO and realized I could reduce the freeplay by adjusting the pedal freeyplay screw and nut under the pedal. I am freeing that up now with some PB Blaster.

I drove it out of the barn as I am gearing up for a project and am going to have to put this on hold for a month or 2. But the feel of the clutch was just the same as before, ON or OFF with very little in between.

I have the factory service manual from VPW but it does not cover the mechanical clutches oddly enough, only the hydraulic ones. It's not letting me double post the image, but it's the same one you replied about here:

http://powerwagonadvertiser.com/foru...ad.php?t=14090

[gmharris]

I take the clutch pan off and get under the truck to double check clutch adjustments. With the engine running, you can check that the throwout bearing is not turning. Youl'll eventually burn up the throwout bearing if the throwout bearing is not fully disengaging. They are not designed for continuous use. Stay clear of moving parts (and dripping fluids).

[defdes]

I take the clutch pan off and get under the truck to double check clutch adjustments.

While I was changing the oil pan gasket I did pull the flywheel cover to clean the dust seals and see what was doing, though I did not check with the truck running inside (has a hard time idling until warm not to mention the unreal amounts of CO the truck produces) it did look like it was TO was in contact and it sure sounds like it too.
So given the image here, is there someone capable of diagraming this to tell me what to adjust first? The Guys at VPW said to lengthen the threaded yoke, which I already did.

[Gordon Maney]

When you step on the clutch pedal it rotates the shaft upon which the pedal is mounted. Note the lever attached to the other end of that short shaft; it presents a lever to which you see a piece of linkage attached.

Each end of that piece of linkage presents a clevis [what you and the owner's manual are calling a yoke]. There is a jam nut between them. If you lengthen that piece of linkage you will reduce free travel. If you shorten it you will increase free travel.

The owner's manual says you should have 1 inch of free travel.

[defdes]

That's what I did, I loosened the jam nut and spun the yoke in the foreground about 2 revolutions lengthening it about 1/16" of an inch (see first blurry picture). I couldn't lengthen it any more because I would not have been able to slide the clevis pin through the holes past a certain length with out loosening the main attachment to the shaft.
As noted above, this adjustment pushed the pedal closer to the driver. This problem can be adjusted out with a set screw stop however.

So you are confirming that as well as decreasing free play, lengthening that linkage should pull the TO bearing away from the fingers, in doing so, I will have to do this to align the clevis pin:

[Gordon Maney]

That's what I did, I loosened the jam nut and spun the yoke in the foreground about 2 revolutions lengthening it about 1/16" of an inch (see first blurry picture). I couldn't lengthen it any more because I would not have been able to slide the clevis pin through the holes past a certain length with out loosening the main attachment to the shaft.
As noted above, this adjustment pushed the pedal closer to the driver. This problem can be adjusted out with a set screw stop however.

So you are confirming that as well as decreasing free play, lengthening that linkage should pull the TO bearing away from the fingers?

No.

When you lengthen the rod you are rolling the shaft in the bellhousing in such a way as to move the throwout bearing toward the pressure plate fingers.

If you have changed a pedal stop screw I would put it back where it was initially, as it should not likely have needed any adjustment. It was given an initial adjustment at the time all these parts were assembled.

If you feel you can't lengthen it any more, that's because to lengthen it more would not only entirely eliminate any free travel, it would hold the clutch in a partly disengaged mode.

Your photo is on the left side looking forward, correct?