Restoration Continues

[Resto Ray]

Rust!

[Resto Ray]

Here is mine. It was about as close as you could get as far as being balanced. I made it adjustable but the original guess was fine. Looks like My center point is higher than yours unless you make it above you angle brace.

Thanks Kevin. This picture helps as I continue to fabricate. Welder is giving me problems. I'm needing to turn my gas pressure way pass 20. Sonerhing blocking the flow of shield gas and as result I'm getting lots of porosity.
The center pivot will be higher by adapting a plate similar to yours to get it up a little higher. I still need to get the other side completed.

[Kevin in Ohio]

There are some more pics on my web page as well. here is a link to it:

http://imageevent.com/kevininohio;js...12.goose_s?n=0

The building of it is under "Cab Rotisserie and Mover"

I know it made working on it WELL worth the effort. Made it so nice to put it on SAFELY.

[Resto Ray]

Can not get this retainer nut off for the main shaft bearing? Appears to be a counterclockwise thread. Any suggestion on getting this guy off?

Not when it comes to rebuilding transmission what should I be looking for? Before I take this apart for a thorough inspection. I have noticed the shift forks have sone slight wear. They do not look easily removable for repair or replacement.

Is there an actual PTO overhaul procedure?

[wayneh]

there is an overhaul of course for the PTO. Again, it is just gears and bearings to not a lot of drama. Just remember, everyplace a hole penetrates the casting needs to be sealed if you don't want it to leak... As for that rust gear. I would clean the rust off and look at it to see if it is pitted. Once you are finished it will run in oil the rest of its life, so rust should not be an issue.

When you put the PTO back on you also have to set the backlash. I've done this a few times, and trust me, it is a lot easier to do on the bench than in the truck. And when you are done, just pull the PTO back out, keep track of the gaskets you used to set the backlash, and, put the trans back in, then bolt the PTO on with the gaskets. It sounds way more complex than it is, trust me.

Wayne

[Resto Ray]

I've got the transmission apart. Found some corrosion issues in the main shaft needle bearings. The 4 of the 6 tabs on the synchronous are loose. Appears to be a stainless stud cast in to the aluminum ring. I don't presume they are suppose to spin or be wobbly. Are the two rings sold separately from the rest of the assembly? What is the proper language for this part?

Thanks

[Gordon Maney]

I've got the transmission apart. Found some corrosion issues in the main shaft needle bearings. The 4 of the 6 tabs on the synchronous are loose. Appears to be a stainless stud cast in to the aluminum ring. I don't presume they are suppose to spin or be wobbly. Are the two rings sold separately from the rest of the assembly? What is the proper language for this part?

Thanks

I do not believe you will find synchro parts available separately.

[wayneh]

Ray: Shoot me an email and I will send you a manual that tells you how to rebuild the NP-420. It is well written. For the syncros, you were supposed to measure the clearance on them before you took it apart... VPW and others sell the bearings. If I could suggest, you took the time to take the cover off, you may as well replace anything that is questionable while you have the cover off. Do you see wear on the spinning shafts where the seals ride? If so, you need to address that. Do you know how many miles were on it? It looks to me like it had water in it, but you you have not talked about the shift rails and what they look like. Unless the bearings all looked like new, I would not leave any of the old ones in.

This pic (I hope) is what my input bearing looked like. No wonder is made a bad noise all the time....

My email is 3d.wayne@gmail.com

Wayne

[Resto Ray]

Thanks Wayne. I got the manual you sent me a while back. I measured the synchros before tear down. I'm replacing all the bearings. The shift tower I'm replacing with a brand new NOS I bought for 25.00. Not even worth me trying to drive out those roll pins and and replacing the warn synchros fork.

The bearing kit for the NP200 transfer I'm thinking going to buy from this seller. Any one use it?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251332346699?...84.m1423.l2648


Has anyone had experience with this Ebay kit for the NP420
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dodge-NP420-T...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

I'm looking for the 1st and 2nd sliding gear for the NP420. Does anyone have a spare to sell? The amount of rust i had on mine chewed through the harding-since I'm doing everything now I may as well do it right!

[Resto Ray]

Ray: Shoot me an email and I will send you a manual that tells you how to rebuild the NP-420. It is well written. For the syncros, you were supposed to measure the clearance on them before you took it apart... VPW and others sell the bearings. If I could suggest, you took the time to take the cover off, you may as well replace anything that is questionable while you have the cover off. Do you see wear on the spinning shafts where the seals ride? If so, you need to address that. Do you know how many miles were on it? It looks to me like it had water in it, but you you have not talked about the shift rails and what they look like. Unless the bearings all looked like new, I would not leave any of the old ones in.

This pic (I hope) is what my input bearing looked like. No wonder is made a bad noise all the time....

My email is 3d.wayne@gmail.com


Wayne

Luckily that did not get worse Wayne!

[Resto Ray]

there is an overhaul of course for the PTO. Again, it is just gears and bearings to not a lot of drama. Just remember, everyplace a hole penetrates the casting needs to be sealed if you don't want it to leak... As for that rust gear. I would clean the rust off and look at it to see if it is pitted. Once you are finished it will run in oil the rest of its life, so rust should not be an issue.

When you put the PTO back on you also have to set the backlash. I've done this a few times, and trust me, it is a lot easier to do on the bench than in the truck. And when you are done, just pull the PTO back out, keep track of the gaskets you used to set the backlash, and, put the trans back in, then bolt the PTO on with the gaskets. It sounds way more complex than it is, trust me.

Wayne

Good tip. I will do that on the bench.

[Resto Ray]

Progress has been slow. Transfer case and transmission are ready for rebuild. I have gathered all the rebuild parts required. Plan on coating with Glyptol this weekend.

Can anyone advise how the top gear shaft on the PTO gets removed? Which direction does the shaft come out? I don't want to force anything.

Is there an accessible rebuild procedure for this PTO - late NP420
Thanks

[Resto Ray]

Rotisserie Completed

Finally after a long winter...I completed the cab rotisserie. Works perfect and makes working on the cab much easier. I'm starting to patch and get my mig skills back in order. The cab though is in good shape. Thanks to Kevin for the inspiration!

[Resto Ray]

Picture

[Desoto61]

They are really helpful, I like the idea of using the door hinge brackets. I'm hopefully just about done with mine. Going to use it to paint the interior this weekend if the weather holds, should make spraying the ceiling and under the dash much easier, then I'll need to cut it out to do the door jams.

Might want to throw up some more detailed pics, I'm sure it would help others in the future. The nice part is that these cabs are light enough that someone could do basically the same thing mostly with wood if their metal skills or budget didn't support it.