Feel like I was just "violated" by the motor shop

[Ammo]

Took the 230 to a local engine shop that specializes in old motors back in early December. The estimate after he took it apart was in the neighborhood of $3000-3500. No cracks in the block or other major concerns, so I thought. He ended up boring 20 over, new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, etc. Also new oil pump timing chain and gears, milled head and flywheel, polished crank, valve job with new valve train set.

Finally got the call last night to come get it. I was pretty excited because he was 2 months over his "no later than" date to have it done. Got there and asked what the damage was and he said $4600! I instantly got sick to my stomach.

Well, he took me back to get motor and there was a big box of accessories, flywheel off, timing cover off, my manifold sitting there (with a note that said there is a crack), Transmission was up front without the new seals and throw out bearing- I asked for, and was part of the estimate. Clutch disc had oil on it and he couldn't explain how it happened. Whats worse was another box that was labeled misc engine hardware full of nuts bolts and fittings.

What ****es me off the most is he had some "holy" excuse for every question I asked. me: "why is there oil on my clutch disc?" Him: "I dont know, sometimes the devil works in mysterious ways" Me: "Why isnt my engine assembled like I asked?" Him: "the lord told me you were going paint the block so I left it for you to assemble" Me: "I told you I wanted it painted Hemi orange!" Him: "I dont recall that".

Anyhow, this is more of a vent thread than anything. I blame myself for not checking more references before taking it to him. The problem is he's still working off his late fathers reputation. There's really nothing I could do about the price. He had a $2000 deposit and was holding my engine hostage if I didn't pay.

Lastly, I'll probably be asking for help putting this thing back together the next few weeks.

[kz1000]

I would be sure to give him bad reviews everywhere and every chance you get. Maybe he ought to go to church and pray for forgiveness for being a crook.

[CSCameron]

Is he a member of the Better Business Bureau? If so, definitely leave negative feedback there. Get the word out that he sucks.

[John Waak]

Yeah, that sucks.

[53Crusher]

Sorry

Sorry to hear about your experience.

I had a machinist do something similar to me on a 428 Cobra Jet engine. Spent a ton of money on the job and the engine literally blew up in about 500 miles. 25 years later, I am still mad at them..... but slowly getting over it :-)

[Ammo]

Oh gosh, I hope it doesn't take 25 yrs to get over LOL!

Today I started to tackle the intake/exhaust manifold. Tried to separate the two and broke 3 of the 4 bolts off flush. I drilled the bolts and they are soaking in oil until tomorrow when I will attempt an extractor. If that doesn't work I'll try to re-thread. Bought some nickel 99 electrodes to fix the crack in the exhaust manifold. I drilled a hole where the crack starts and where it ends then grooved the crack with a carbide. Tomorrow I'll pre heat to 400 degrees, weld er up, and ping the weld to give some flex. I'll let you all know how it goes.

One question though, what is the purpose of the "flapper" looking plate in the exhaust manifold? Looks like a dampener of sorts with an adjusting nut on the outside. Mine is froze wide open. Can I remove it? or should I clean and free it up?

[bilfman]

Flapper is to restrict the exhaust so the manifold is warmer in colder weather. I leave them wide open and if I get a carb icing problem then I fab a removable heat riser tube from the exhaust manifold to the carb.

[Doc Dave]

Since you have taken things apart, if you are able to free it up, you can use it.
I live in the mid-Atlantic area and it's not extremely cold in the winter, but hot in summer,
The pointer down is the summer position and the pointer more horizontal is winter. I adjust it twice a year. Make sure the flapper and the rod its on are attached to each other.
One other thing, be sure your fuel pump has a heat shield on top, and you run the fuel line from it out away from the engine then back to the carb. PW's are notorious for vapor lock in hot weather, especially when not moving fast.
Some people do like bilfman, or install one of the later automatic (spring) type exhaust heat set ups where you don't have to fool with it.

[unbreakable]

Now you got it back, go to small claims court, get back what you can and even if its $20 bucks, he will learn his business practice isn't working. Future customers can do the same till he's out of business or he hires someone who can actually do the job.

[Doc Dave]

If Ammo does not have a written estimate, where it also says something along the lines of "if charges exceed 10% of the estimate during the job, the customer will be contacted before additional work is done", then I think it will be a he said/ she said type thing, and a waste of time.
Sadly, the machinist is a shyster and phony. How many real "believers" do we know That have to advertise it in their business dealings?
I am a believer myself but tend to be a little suspicious of businessmen like the guy described.

[Ammo]

I didn't have a written estimate and should have known better. My gut told me something was up with this shop after the excuses, for why the motor wasn't done, started. He's a pretty good talker and I fell for it. I'll take responsibility for getting took, but he will get his in the long run. Word of mouth travels fast around here.

Thanks for the info on the exhaust "flapper". I freed it up so I could shut it for summer driving. Dont know how much of the cold this truck will see but it's good knowing it's there if I do need it.

[Elwood]

If Ammo does not have a written estimate, where it also says something along the lines of "if charges exceed 10% of the estimate during the job, the customer will be contacted before additional work is done", then I think it will be a he said/ she said type thing, and a waste of time.

Maybe, but many states require shops to provide a written estimate, and to obtain the customer's approval if the charges exceed a certain percentage above the estimate. If the shop fails to obtain the approval, the customer is not responsible for any charge in excess of 110% of the original estimate.

If the shop is unlicensed, or if the shop failed to follow the state's requirements for a vehicle repair facility, the customer should notify the appropriate state office. The shop owner may be much more reasonable if he's facing state fines or being shut down.

Ammo, you might want to start here: http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs...4&ChapterID=67

[Bruce in BC]

this might make you feel better

A unhappy customer will take away on average 17 other customers. You need to address your concerns in as many places as possible.
Also the tax department might like a tip about him needing to be audited.

[Ammo]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Very interesting link Bruce, I may pursue this further now- or least bring it to the engine guys attention ;).

Here's another question regarding proper timing. I took timing cover off for paint and noticed the two indentation marks on the pulley are off. They are both at approximately the 11 oclock position. I pulled the plug on the head to verify it's at TDC #6 cylinder (which it is). Arent the markers supposed to be next to each other? For example, small one 11 oclock and large one 5 oclock. Or is just necessary they are in a straight line alignment. Now you know why I took it to an engine shop LOL.

[Tom Petroff]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Very interesting link Bruce, I may pursue this further now- or least bring it to the engine guys attention ;).

Here's another question regarding proper timing. I took timing cover off for paint and noticed the two indentation marks on the pulley are off. They are both at approximately the 11 oclock position. I pulled the plug on the head to verify it's at TDC #6 cylinder (which it is). Arent the markers supposed to be next to each other? For example, small one 11 oclock and large one 5 oclock. Or is just necessary they are in a straight line alignment. Now you know why I took it to an engine shop LOL.

Timing marks should be in a straight line through the shafts.
Tom