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1948 power wagon project

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  • Texcwa - the method I found to install the glove box springs was the following
    1 - use a long thin screw driver to pry the spring from underneath the glove box towards the front of the cab.
    2 - apply serious amounts of pressure to the spring top while prying. A 2x4 to help apply the pressure would be helpful unless you have steel palms.

    Best of luck.

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    • Thanks for the info, I am still waiting for the box, need to prime and paint (but may not get to that right away, just got a ft of snow and more expected tomorrow) then I may be back in touch if I get into any issues.

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      • Been putsing around on the truck. Largest accomplishment was replacing the rear seal on the transfer case.

        Instaling the seal proved to be an issue with the shaft. I suppose having proper tools would work better but I found a couple boards with holes drilled in them allowed me to tap the seal in evenly. The speedi-sleeve install I found to be the easiest part of the process.



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        • On the glove box springs when I put them on, I fish them through the bottom of the square glove box holes, hook them to the slots on the hinge and slowly close the door and let them hang.
          Then I use a pretty beefy set of 10 in slip joint pliars, With both hands i squeeze tight and pull it forwards towards me and hook it on the dash. It can be tricky but after a coupe dozen times it does get easier.
          1967 W200.aka.Hank
          1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
          2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie

          Life is easier in a lower gear.

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          • Just curious if you Matt or Tod (anyone) has a pic looking up under dash and on lid showing where these spring clips attach to? No rush since I do not have box yet and am shoveling snow.

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            • 2E7328CA-14EC-4954-8EB6-ABAAB25D6719.jpeg Texcwa
              here is a photo of where mine is latched onto.
              Todd

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              • Thanks Tod. I have my lid attached with new springs but one side is loose so I was wondering if I had it right. Maybe after installing box it will be tighter, if not, may just need to get some channel locks on cab opening and give it a little tweek where the clip attaches.

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                • You are welcome. Just putting last window door sweep in. Glad it helped.

                  I did not try without the box and both took a lot of pressure to put in. Wish I had the windshield out so I could of leaned out of it to put all of my weight on it.



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                  • I just finished all my glass replacement and door weather-stripping, what a job. Got the last pieces done last weekend, the door bottom gaskets and the new cowl vent gasket. Installed the sliding door glass with doors off and flat on work bench, so much easier. The only parts I could not get in are the small rubber bumpers/spacers that mount on inside (Cab Side) of crank door windows on door frame, see pic below. The exterior strip was installed prior to dropping glass and rail in but just don't seem to have enough room to get those bumpers/spacers in. Did you get your in? Suggestions? Do you install with thick edge at top or bottom?

                    Screenshot 2019-02-10 17.03.jpg

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                    • I have not been able to locate my rubber bumpers since I started on the windows. So I can not say how they go or if it would be trouble. Although with my windows cranked all the way down it looks as if I would have room to get them in.

                      I was was not aware that the doors had weatherstripping until a couple of weeks ago so I still lack those. Neither of my vehicles came with them so I made the bad assumption there was none.

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                      • Originally posted by Matthew Welcher PWA View Post
                        On the glove box springs when I put them on, I fish them through the bottom of the square glove box holes, hook them to the slots on the hinge and slowly close the door and let them hang.
                        Then I use a pretty beefy set of 10 in slip joint pliars, With both hands i squeeze tight and pull it forwards towards me and hook it on the dash. It can be tricky but after a coupe dozen times it does get easier.
                        The trick I learned and used was to take a piece of lockwire or similar, twist it into a loop and you can put that over the hook and then use vice grips or pliers to get some leverage on the wire so you can hook the spring over the lip, then worse case just cut the wire and pull it out. Worked well.

                        I don't think the box changes anything about how the springs work IIRC. Could be a bent spring or something with the attachment points.

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