1948 power wagon project

[Todd M]

Texcwa - the method I found to install the glove box springs was the following
1 - use a long thin screw driver to pry the spring from underneath the glove box towards the front of the cab.
2 - apply serious amounts of pressure to the spring top while prying. A 2x4 to help apply the pressure would be helpful unless you have steel palms.

Best of luck.

[texcwa]

Thanks for the info, I am still waiting for the box, need to prime and paint (but may not get to that right away, just got a ft of snow and more expected tomorrow) then I may be back in touch if I get into any issues.

[Todd M]

Been putsing around on the truck. Largest accomplishment was replacing the rear seal on the transfer case.

Instaling the seal proved to be an issue with the shaft. I suppose having proper tools would work better but I found a couple boards with holes drilled in them allowed me to tap the seal in evenly. The speedi-sleeve install I found to be the easiest part of the process.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

On the glove box springs when I put them on, I fish them through the bottom of the square glove box holes, hook them to the slots on the hinge and slowly close the door and let them hang.
Then I use a pretty beefy set of 10 in slip joint pliars, With both hands i squeeze tight and pull it forwards towards me and hook it on the dash. It can be tricky but after a coupe dozen times it does get easier.

[texcwa]

Just curious if you Matt or Tod (anyone) has a pic looking up under dash and on lid showing where these spring clips attach to? No rush since I do not have box yet and am shoveling snow.

[Todd M]

2E7328CA-14EC-4954-8EB6-ABAAB25D6719.jpeg Texcwa
here is a photo of where mine is latched onto.
Todd

[texcwa]

Thanks Tod. I have my lid attached with new springs but one side is loose so I was wondering if I had it right. Maybe after installing box it will be tighter, if not, may just need to get some channel locks on cab opening and give it a little tweek where the clip attaches.

[Todd M]

You are welcome. Just putting last window door sweep in. Glad it helped.

I did not try without the box and both took a lot of pressure to put in. Wish I had the windshield out so I could of leaned out of it to put all of my weight on it.

[texcwa]

I just finished all my glass replacement and door weather-stripping, what a job. Got the last pieces done last weekend, the door bottom gaskets and the new cowl vent gasket. Installed the sliding door glass with doors off and flat on work bench, so much easier. The only parts I could not get in are the small rubber bumpers/spacers that mount on inside (Cab Side) of crank door windows on door frame, see pic below. The exterior strip was installed prior to dropping glass and rail in but just don't seem to have enough room to get those bumpers/spacers in. Did you get your in? Suggestions? Do you install with thick edge at top or bottom?

Screenshot 2019-02-10 17.03.jpg

[Todd M]

I have not been able to locate my rubber bumpers since I started on the windows. So I can not say how they go or if it would be trouble. Although with my windows cranked all the way down it looks as if I would have room to get them in.

I was was not aware that the doors had weatherstripping until a couple of weeks ago so I still lack those. Neither of my vehicles came with them so I made the bad assumption there was none.

[Desoto61]

On the glove box springs when I put them on, I fish them through the bottom of the square glove box holes, hook them to the slots on the hinge and slowly close the door and let them hang.
Then I use a pretty beefy set of 10 in slip joint pliars, With both hands i squeeze tight and pull it forwards towards me and hook it on the dash. It can be tricky but after a coupe dozen times it does get easier.

The trick I learned and used was to take a piece of lockwire or similar, twist it into a loop and you can put that over the hook and then use vice grips or pliers to get some leverage on the wire so you can hook the spring over the lip, then worse case just cut the wire and pull it out. Worked well.

I don't think the box changes anything about how the springs work IIRC. Could be a bent spring or something with the attachment points.

[Todd M]

Headlights working

Felt supper proud today when I got the headlights working. Of all things I have done on this truck getting them working was the best. I had been putting the electrical off for months now and basically I have run out of items to do so basically I am forced to get it done. My youngest son helped in making sure I had the floor dimmer and the headlights tentatively wired properly before he headed out to work. Had all the items to get them soldered except for larger rings that I needed for the grounds.

We will tackle the turn signals and brake lights tomorrow. I have studied the turn signal wire diagram and wonder how I will do it without the flasher. I had not planned on this and it seems to lead to the power.
FC2C7B06-6E17-46C8-B2EC-3B1EC67056F2.jpeg

[texcwa]

Tod, Just finished installing turn signals. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

[Todd M]

Tod, Just finished installing turn signals. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Texcwa,
Thanks for the offer.

Spent the afternoon trying to figure out the wiring for my turn and brake lights. 1st issue was to tighten the positive from the battery, 2nd ground of the signal stat to steering column was not sufficient, 3rd learned that I needed to test with a regular bulb that pulled more amps vs my rear LED lights. 4th had to file off some powder coat on the front fenders for the turn signals to ground properly.

All the the wires are now temporarily in place and will be soldered in the coming day.

Ran the truck to verify verify the gauges and noticed two things that I would like people thoughts on. 1- the amps barely read anything and moves very slightly when the lights are turned on and off. 2- oil pressure is around 5 in idle and 10-15 at higher rpms.

Fuel guage is still not hooked up.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

Glad you got the turn signals straightened out. I have never installed LED Turn signals and I am fairly sure you will need some type of resistor but not positive. Check your charging system with a volt meter and see where things are at voltage wise with your charging system to start.
Now onto the oil pressure issue. That is low. As a rule being that low is a tolerance issue or a clearance issue with internal bearings, main and or cam bearings, including the rear journal of the engine block for the camshaft.
Lets take a look at your oil pressure relief valve in the side of the motor. Down by the starter in the side of the block is a square plug that will house a piston and spring. Pull that guy out and inspect the piston and spring. There is a heavier spring that can be installed in there and may help a bit. We can hope. Give me a call if need be.

[texcwa]

My freshly rebuilt 218 (not 230) has in excess of 40 psi oil pressure at startup and while driving, I have never noticed it dropping down although I have not driven it more than a mile at a time so am sure that when the oil heats up the pressure may drop a bit.

As for your turn signals, as I mentioned, I just installed mine. You are correct about getting a good ground from the Signal Stat to the steering column. I actually added a ground wire to the cab for a better ground. Also, what flasher relay are you using? The standard 3 pin relay (like the ones VPW sells) will not support LED lights. You will need a flassher that works with LED's. I am not running LED's but read up on this when preparing to install the system. I also changed the cowl light bulbs to dual filament amber bulbs (had to find from a motorcycle parts supply sense these are short bulbs) and using them as my front turn signals (I do not have the lights that mount to top of fenders).