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Todd, It should tighten down pretty snug, I use a set of long needle nose pliars and it works fairly well at a 1/4 of a turn at a time. It takes a bit but should snug up just fine.
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1967 W200.aka.Hank
1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie
Life is easier in a lower gear. -
Bumper / winch fitting
finally got back at it. Fitted the front bumper and winch minus the drum and cable that seems to weight 400# by itself.
First had to heat and pound out several character marks on the bump and tried my best to remove all the twist on the drivers side and bend on the passenger’s side. Will see how it looks all painted and may end up replacing them in the future.
What I could use some help on is the bushing end. Is the cable drum shaft suppose to be flush with the end? I took this winch off one of my trucks that had damaged to the point I had to get a replacement for the cable drum shaft bracket. Photos show that it was sitting inside even deeper but I can only imagine it was from the damage.Comment
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Tim Ellis
1953 B4 PW
2013 Dodge 2500 Diesel
Clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.Comment
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It should be flush or out just a bit like the other guys have stated Todd. Did you by chance remove the shaft from the bronze gear and have something going on in the gearbox itself? Can you show us a few more pictures of the winch assembly itself? Close ups on either end by chance, the winch bumpers and brackets themselves look like you have them lined up and looking very well.1967 W200.aka.Hank
1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie
Life is easier in a lower gear.Comment
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BD843261-04E0-455D-9DC2-A132DD87032B.jpegA915149C-2F65-49B3-A628-2BAEB0C5F9D9.jpeg929E0F18-FEF8-46D7-B49A-86AA667C7E70.jpeg Thank you guys. I figured sometwas wrong with the fitment.
Matthew I have not torn down the winch as of yet. Still working up the courage to open up something that I worry may be over my skill set. Heck this whole project was outside of my skill set so what am I saying. I remember seeing a post on the rebuild of the winch but like always I am having trouble locating it again. I hope it does not stay hidden from me as I would like to work on it this weekend. Otherwise I will have to revert to the windshield assembly another task that has been waiting patiently for some time now.
Here are are close up photos of drum shaft on the gear box side.Comment
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The winch is actually quite simple inside, just two major parts and a few bearings and bushings. Trickiest part of rebuilding them is setting the bearing pre-load in the input [worm] gear shaft which is done by stacking gaskets on the ends of the housing. Not hard, just tedious. The rebuild thread here a few years ago was good, especially the information on the right lubricants to use in them.Comment
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This should be the link to the rebuild thread. It gave me the courage to do my MU2, and I was also way outside my skill set. Turned out great. https://powerwagonadvertiser.com/for...repair-rebuildTim Ellis
1953 B4 PW
2013 Dodge 2500 Diesel
Clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.Comment
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Todd, I would start soaking the old girl in penetrating oil for a while. The clutch dog looks fairly rusted in place, the above rebuild link is fantastic. Have no fear about rebuilding the winch the work you have done on the truck has been fantastic. You will do just fine on the winch.1967 W200.aka.Hank
1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie
Life is easier in a lower gear.Comment
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Caught this thread late but for what its worth, mine too projects out approx 3/16" from end of bushing. I also took many pics of the rebuild if entrusted. 2014-12-07_16-30-04_944.jpg2014-12-07_16-29-39_179.jpgComment
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Well I have two issues with the winch repair or at least two that I know of right now. The first is when I retighten the gear cap I lose majority of my ability to rotate the drum shaft. Reading the above link I have a couple of item that could resolve that issue.
The second is is how easily should the sliding clutch move on the drum shaft? I am trying to do this my hand; actually with gentle taps of the hammer. I still do not have the shifting fork as I am waiting for it to arrive but I can only imagine that it will need to be easier to slide along the drum shaft.Comment
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Todd Once it is assembled, that shaft turns hard, as in all I can do to put both hands on it and turn it, meaning the large drum shaft. There are not any shims but if need be you can double up gaskets. As far as the clutch dog it should move really easily once the fork is installed. At times I have had to use a file to make things fit just right.
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For the first issue, if I recall there are thin shims that are used to adjust the gear cap pressure. Matt would know.Originally posted by Todd M View Post
On the second issue, my sliding clutch moves very smoothly and I did use some grease on shaft. You may need to just use some fine emery cloth on shaft or to hone out clutch. I too had to order all the shifting fork components but now all works great (I still need to add the cable). The below pic shows the clutch and shifting fork assembly.
IMAG0605.jpgComment
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What is the proper way to use the winch, using the clutch pedal from in the cab or leaving the lever in the cab engaged and working the winch from the lever above ?Comment
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As far as operating the winch, It is something that I don't like to do by myself. Inside the cab you have the PTO Lever itself, depending on how the cable is wound around the drum makes a difference on which way the lever spools the cable. The pto lever has 3 positions, In, neutral and out.
Up on the winch you have the engage and disengage fork that moves the clutch dog in and out from the drum itself.
Now here is what I do when I am using the winch, I will disengage the clutch fork so it will freespool of the drum, the lever inside the cab must be in the neutral position to do this.
Then you can stretch the cable to whatever you want to connect to, leave yourself a little slack.
Walk back to the truck and use the fork itself to engage the clutch dog into the drum. The slack is needed because it never fails that you need to rock the drum one way or another to engage it.
Then hop in the truck, and operate the winch from the inside, via the clutch and the pto lever that comes up through the floor.
I try and never engage and disengage the winch while the winch itself is in an operable position, as a rule while turning you wont be able to force the clutch fork into or out of position while under a load.
On the LE Myers late WM300's they had an engine kill switch on the front of the grill. This was in case you needed to shut the winch down fast just push the button and kill the truck.
I hope this made sense to you. If you would like to talk about this some more feel free to give me a call.
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I can not say myself how to operate but I found this thread that may help you with some of your questions.Originally posted by preaction View Post
https://powerwagonadvertiser.com/for...mu-2-operationComment
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I finally got my two issues resolved.
Sanded the high spots off the gear until the drum shaft rotated freely with the end cap tightly installed. And yes you get good at taking it apart and putting it back together as maineSS states in the link above.
Finally this afternoon I got the sliding clutch to move by hand somewhat easily; not sure if it slides as it should be but I will see how it is back together once my clutch fork gets here.
Would love over to see this back on the truck.Comment
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Painted the last two items today. Hopefully it will be back on the truck tomorrow minus the drum. 6428F0CE-989B-41F1-AFD9-45D1906C120B.jpegComment
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