Best paint for axle housing?

[the engineer]

I'm fixin to rebuild a set of axles for my 76 power wagon, and after sandblasting, what's the most durable paint for them? Oil based paint, enamel, hi temp? I want to do it with spray paint. Tractor supply has farm implement spray paint and oil based, but i dont know what's the most durable. Knowledgeable help is definitely appreciated. Thanks, Casey.

[80powerwagon]

POR15 will work great, if you want you can apply it scuff it up with some fine grit sandpaper and paint over it whatever color you want if you don't like the semi-gloss black

[hemibob67]

Axle Paint

I am using POR 15 on the 74 that im doing right now. A good friend of mine (even though he's a Chevy guy) just got done using it on his Camaro and I was sold on it after seeing the great job it did. Just make sure you wear gloves because it will not come off your hands.

[80powerwagon]

Yes Gloves! Good call on that one. If not it will be paint thinner and steel wool to get it off.

[OLD DODGE]

POR= Peels Off Readily

It is designed to bond to rust. If its not rusty don't use POR. It won't hold up especially that close to the road. I live on a dirt road. I did the bottom of a car and after a few months half of it was gone. I was very disappointed that all that effort and money was wasted. Others have had similar experiences. If you spend the time to blast it to bare metal, you should cover it with a high quality paint. Talk to your local paint stores and see what they have to offer.

[Hobcobble]

POR= Peels Off Readily

LOL.... you aren't kidding there. I used it on a rusty frame
and went "by the book"..... POR Metal Prep, POR Chassis
Coat, etc.. Even when applied to rusty metal.... it can peel
off in sheets. For the two truck frames I've done recently, I
used Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and two top coats of
Rustoleum Semi Gloss Black Paint.
John

[Charles Talbert]

Be careful before you invest

Lots of truth about POR15 or any of the other similar type products which are numerous today. We've used several different systems in trials, the best one we've used is none at all. In almost every case, they have actually caused rust in one way or another. I've come to the conclusion that most if not all of these portrayed miracle solutions are nothing more than $$$ getters, the market is geared toward users who don't yet know better than to use these products, in other words, get their money while you can, days are numbered. Apparently many others have come to similar realizations as we have, just go to the forum at Eastwood.com, with all the complaints & bad project outcome situations you can read about there, I don't see how they even sell the stuff, they offer several systems, you can read of high $$$ nightmares all day on their foum. It has become so apparent that even their own so called professionals are having a hard time smoothing over causes for all the treatments gone wrong people ask questions about. Most folks are saying, I went right by the label instructions; seems instructions just don't mention all the ifs, ands, & buts that can cause undesirable issues to arise, imagine that. Obviously they are more interested in taking your $$$ than they are in taking pride in their products producing a desirable outcome.

The best coating is simple, powder coating done right, you won't find better when you are looking for durability & a long lasting superior appearance. Like any other coating, what you coat over the top of means everything. The best way on an axle housing is to blast back to bare metal, treat with phosphate & powder coat. Many choices & types of finishes are available, so one has plenty of options to chose from.

Go to your local, REPUTABLE powder coater, you will be glad you did for many years to come. He can show you how his system works, expected outcome you can count on, etc. Don't expect a true professional to provide service at bargain basement pricing, he simply can't do that. That old line, "you get what you pay for", it applies in a huge way here.

MIRACLES in a can, they really don't exist folks.

[the engineer]

ok, so no por 15

ok, so it looks like rust oleum. sorry, charles, i wish i could afford powder coating, but i cant. does gloss black look stupid on axles? does semi gloss look better? i've never paid attention before.

[74w300uteline]

ospho

Ospho seems to be working on the M884 so far.

[the engineer]

ospho

ospho just turns the rust into black paintable iron oxide, right? you still have to paint it after the ospho, correct?

[Bruce]

Correcto-Mundo

Use flat or gloss, which ever you think you'll like, if you don't like what you've chosen, do the other. I have painted mine od of course!
I'm using Gilespie Coatings, 2-2-1, but the hardener formula has changed, so it looks like I will have to shoot the entire cab again, bummer!

[the engineer]

thanks, bruce. i am trying to do a rattle can job, cause i dont have the resources to do any more than that. for some reason, i put an inline dryer on my air compressor, but when using tools, i still get water out of their exhaust ports. the dryer catches some water in it, but for some reason doesnt catch it all. so i know it'd really screw up a paint job.

[Bruce]

I have added the disposable units right at the gun itself, so far so good.
I did rattle gun stuff for the first 2 years, glad I switched.

Rattle Can paint job.



Spray Gun paint job.

[Gordon Maney]

Lots of truth about POR15 or any of the other similar type products which are numerous today. We've used several different systems in trials, the best one we've used is none at all. In almost every case, they have actually caused rust in one way or another. I've come to the conclusion that most if not all of these portrayed miracle solutions are nothing more than $$$ getters, the market is geared toward users who don't yet know better than to use these products, in other words, get their money while you can, days are numbered. Apparently many others have come to similar realizations as we have, just go to the forum at Eastwood.com, with all the complaints & bad project outcome situations you can read about there, I don't see how they even sell the stuff, they offer several systems, you can read of high $$$ nightmares all day on their foum. It has become so apparent that even their own so called professionals are having a hard time smoothing over causes for all the treatments gone wrong people ask questions about. Most folks are saying, I went right by the label instructions; seems instructions just don't mention all the ifs, ands, & buts that can cause undesirable issues to arise, imagine that. Obviously they are more interested in taking your $$$ than they are in taking pride in their products producing a desirable outcome.

The best coating is simple, powder coating done right, you won't find better when you are looking for durability & a long lasting superior appearance. Like any other coating, what you coat over the top of means everything. The best way on an axle housing is to blast back to bare metal, treat with phosphate & powder coat. Many choices & types of finishes are available, so one has plenty of options to chose from.

Go to your local, REPUTABLE powder coater, you will be glad you did for many years to come. He can show you how his system works, expected outcome you can count on, etc. Don't expect a true professional to provide service at bargain basement pricing, he simply can't do that. That old line, "you get what you pay for", it applies in a huge way here.

MIRACLES in a can, they really don't exist folks.

When you say, treat with phosphate, what are you meaning by phosphate? Is that a liquid used in paint prep? [I am not a painter....}

[the engineer]

disposable water filters?

Bruce, please show me a pic of what you're talking about, or give me a link to see one. i've never heard of these. how long does one last before you have to toss it? thanks.