Jumping 727 ?

[KRB64]

It is a peculiar feeling. Why is it that Dodges do it but not other makes?

[Copper]

the rear drive shaft slip yoke splines on dodges bind / when you come to a STOP sign and hit the brakes the a$$ end lifts and the brakes hold the tension on the splines / when you let off the brake and give it some gas the a$$ end drops from the tension on the splines being released

It is a peculiar feeling. Why is it that Dodges do it but not other makes?

I think you fellas are dead right on the diagnosis. I greased the snot out of the spline shaft and it reduced the noise. If anything, the "bump" is more noticable, but quieter. Would replacing the rear shocks reduce this? They have a chrysler emblem on them, I bet they are the originals.

Thanks

[KRB64]

I replaced the origina; shocks on my CTD with Monroes a few years ago and noticed NO difference in anything...

[Copper]

I finally got back to my transmission. I haven't really been using the truck. I just passed the 1000 mile mark since I purchased it.

I dropped the pan. No signs of debris of any kind in the fluid or the pan. I drained the torque converter as well. The filter was still intact, though far from pliable. It wasn't really dirty at all. The fluid was a dark red color, but not burnt.

I adjusted the bands. I wasn't aware it required a special socket (5/16 8 point) available at sears. Neither Haynes or Chilton made mention of it. That cost me half a day.

If there is an easy way/tool to put 30lbs of torque on the lock nut while preventing the adjustment "screw" from turning, I'd sure like to hear about it.

The method I finally settled on was to hold it in place with a 5/16 open end wrench while snugging the lock nut with a thin walled off set box end wrench. I left the "screw" an 1/8 turn too far out and then final tightened the lock nut with a socket and torque wrench. That put me pretty much on +/- 1/16 turn.

Out of curiosity ... being that this is an adjustment ... What is the effect if one intentionally adds or subtracts a 1/4 or 1/2 turn? Smoother/rougher shifting? Earlier/later shifting?

Thanks

BTW: the immediate results were, near instant engagement when shifting into F/R (no more sluggish delay). Clean and identifyable shifts down the road (it was hard to tell if/when it shifted before). Reverse was slipping, now it's not. We'll see what it's like in a few miles.

The manual suggests this procedure every 30,000 or 24 months. My transmissions have long gone neglected (2 or 3 times that interval), out of the thought that I had to take it to the shop to get it done. This is not a difficult procedure. I highly recommend it.

Thanks for the encouragement to try this out.