Replacing rotors on a 75 W200

[Chewie]

No limited slip here. I have 4.10 gears. Any idea what the stock spline count was for '75? I see they offer the four pinion Power Lok for 30 spline as well as 35 spline axles.

[Ron in Indiana]

Chewie since Andrew would like to have a limited slip I'll be counting the splines on his axles. I have them out yet since I'm waiting on parts. I got the rear brakes done but need the lock ring as the tab is broken off on the inside. Now to locate them.

[Ron in Indiana]

No limited slip here. I have 4.10 gears. Any idea what the stock spline count was for '75? I see they offer the four pinion Power Lok for 30 spline as well as 35 spline axles.

I counted the splines on this D60 and it's 30 splines. I found my lock rings for the rear axle. Now if I could only get the correct rotors. My Napa had two shipped in from Iowa but they are for a D60 4500# axle according to their online store. I have to look tomorrow to see if maybe the chinks put the wrong rotor in the box. What gets me is the 4500# rotors are $41 and the 3500# are $104.

[Ron in Indiana]

We have parts

Thanks to KRB64 and his shipment of parts I was able to get the front brakes back on the 75 W200 today. Turned out the left front was torn up at some point which required a hub and retainer plate. I have to get a rear wheel seal tomorrow and then I'll be able to bleed the system. It's been quite the process but it's about to wind up now. Again thanks for the help Keenan.

Once I can get it on all 4 wheels I can free up my hoist for another pressing project but that's covered under the Power Giant thread.

[KRB64]

Glad to see the project moving along. Happy to help.

[Ron in Indiana]

Update

Thought I'd post an update on this project. The brakes are all rebuilt with new rotors, pads, hoses and calipers on the front. The rears have new shoes, wheel cylinders and turned drums. It's off the hoist and sitting on a four tires. Haven't had time to drive it since I got is done last Saturday. We've got a 75 Dart on the hoist awaiting wheel bearings for the rear. I'm dealing with a headcold right now so it may be a bit until I can get pictures taken and loaded. I'll probably start a new thread once I get pictures loaded since this is an all out restoration.

[Chewie]

Kind of a bump.

On my crew cab (W200), I've developed a squeak on the pasenger side up front. It disappears when I apply the brake (which made me think caliper), but today it got quiet when I made a few right turns, too. So I lifted the front up and gave the tire a shake and -yep- play. Not 1/4", but enough to notice. The other side has less, but it's there. So what I thought was going to be a quick pad change this weekend is looking like a bigger job that I have no experience with.
I checked for a zerk in that hole after I removed the wheel, but I couldn't see one. Is there one behind the cliper? Or am I looking at a tear down?
Only problem is I killed the car (it won't hold water anymore) and the diesel is in between trannies, so this is my only ride for the next couple weeks.
How quick is the fuse on this bomb?

[Ron in Indiana]

I'd say a lack of grease has caused problems. The grease zerk is around the outside of the bearing retainer you just have to line it up with the hole in the rotor. I'm afraid you may be past a grease job with play in the axle. Remove the large nut on the end of the axle. Remove the 6 bolts through the hole with a 3/8" 12 point thin wall deep socket. Once these are out the bearing retain will come off. You can now see if the bearings are worn. If the bearing retainer is screwed up you are now in deep do do. That is unless KRB64 still has one from his dad's truck. He hooked me up with one for Andrew's 75. The rotor can only be removed with a press. If you have to go that far remove the grease zerk FIRST, trust me on this one. It just screws into the housing. The rotors are scarce for these full time trucks and pricey. Once you get it apart it's not hard to see what has to be done. You can try to band aid it with some grease but I'd say you're looking at a tear down in your future. Hope the bearing retainer isn't torn up on yours. Get the rotors first if it looks like you need them to save down time. Give me a shout if you run into trouble.

[Chewie]

Thanks, Ron.

I don't mind surgery on something that is not running, but taking a truck out of commission makes me a little nervous. Thanks for the socket info. I saw the boltheads through that hole and knew I didn't have the right one. One more trip to town...

[Ron in Indiana]

No problem Chewie no sense in reinventing the wheel when someone else has been there. I know the feeling on being without your truck. I used a 3/8 drive socket to get those bolts out. Like I said look over your rotors to see if they need replacing first. They have to be pressed off to be turned too. One rotor broke while being pressed of due to rust on the hub. Not what you wanted to hear but it can happen. Hope it goes well for you if you need help I'll be here. Ron

[KRB64]

And I still have that other rotor. Haven't looked at it close as to the condition though.

[76WAGON200]

Just fix yer tie rod dude.

I had a bent tie rod as well but my dear auld Da' who used to be a crack bush mechanic told me to grab a big block of wood and strike the tie rod against it baseball bat fashion and lo and behold, the rod is straight again. It worked! Who'd a thunk the auld gorm knew what he was talking about eh?