Bad connection in the W200

[Chewie]

Is there a fix for this that doesn't involve a complete harness?

I was checking out the floor mounted dimmer switch in the crewcab and just happened to look up. This is the connector just under the steering column, and the side with the stripped wire (the first pic) is what goes through the firewall. I think the resistance was caused by corrosion after the insulation was removed. Farther up the stream, the black wire was broken at some point, and tied back together in a knot!

I am thinking that I could use the empty slots in the connector for now, but I really need to know what caused the problem...
Thanks!

[KRB64]

Yikes! Do you know what circuit that is?

[Chewie]

No not yet. I disconnected the battery as soon as I found it. Since it goes up the column, I think it has something to do with the ignition. It's the thickest wire in the loom.

[2x1972]

I believe that comes from the alternator. I had a wire fire that originated in there and burned my whole engine bay harness and the column loom as well. That was the end of my beloved (first vehicle) 2wd '72, as it was too far gone to justify the expense of repair. Good catch, lucky to have caught it before it caused major damage (wiring ain't cheap!!!).

If its the column side you just have to take that out all the way up to the ignition switch, go to a junkyard, do it again, and put the new one in... but its a job, you gotta take the steering wheel off and the whole column apart. if its the other side... it will be more involved. Best of luck!

[KRB64]

And do the alt gauge by-pass while you're at it and the fear is in you!

[Madbodhi]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

I did my 73 W100 abit diffrent

[Madbodhi]

Went whole hog on my 78 crew.Completely removed the original ignition and installed relayed Hei ignition with e-coil,rerouted power via a variation of the M.A.D. electrical "new system",marine grade starter solenoid and auxilary fuse block,power distribution block,relayed headlights with new high heat H4 sockets and H4 headlights,military 0gauge battery cables,ground straps and battery clamps.Overkill perhaps but the original wiring was completely shot.

[DODGEBOYS]

yup that would be the ALT wire to the amp gauge in the dash thats melted / common problem / it,ll also melt the bulk head connector

[KRB64]

Probably should play it safe and just sell it before it burns up.

Um, want me to, er, take her off your hangs for you? :)

[MoparNorm]

And do the alt gauge by-pass while you're at it and the fear is in you!

Exactly! We covered this in another thread, and this is the results of not bypassing the alternator and running a voltmeter.

[Chewie]

SXL wire?

So do I fix this via the madelectrical site from madbodhi (thanks!) or do I replace all the wiring, figuring that it all could be suspect? We are making this a long haul cruiser...

[Chewie]

Exactly! We covered this in another thread, and this is the results of not bypassing the alternator and running a voltmeter.

I remember reading that thread. Going to look at it again a little closer.

[MoparNorm]

I don't know if that is the same method that I used. But basically the primary current feed originally runs through the gauge to accurately give you the amps generated by the alternator. You re-route that wire to by pass the instrument cluster and simply run any hot wire to the new voltmeter and not through the volt meter.
The link give should have a schematic explaining it better than I... = )

[Madbodhi]

I would inpect your wiring,paticularly the bulkead,the underhood fusible links and plugs to the ballast resistor.I'd imagine your wiring is likely ok.My crew cab was a Search and Rescue truck that had ALOT of high draw stuff kinda patched into the original wiring.You can't just replace the ammeter with a voltmeter.The wiring schematic is diffrent.I would do the M.A.D. ammeter bypass and the buy an aftermarket voltmeter.The voltmeter will just use a switched power line that you can run from the fuse box and a ground.

[OLD DODGE]

Cause and Effect

You will be familiar with heat producing products being rated in watts. Watts can be described mathematically as I x I x R = W
I = electrical current
R= resistance

Watts equals I squared times R.

In this scenario the resistance is caused by the plug connection being bad. Plug some numbers into the formula for fun. You will see as long as the resistance is low, so is the wattage (ex. 3 x 3 x .2 = 1.8). Throw in some resistance for a bad connection and things start heating up.

If a hot wire had been shorted to ground you would see heat damage along the entire length of the wire, not just at the plug connection.