carb question

[04 Diesel]

My 76 w100 takes along time to warm up , and it hesitates all the time. Its a 2 barrel carb and there are two screws on the front, witch screw is for air and witch one is fuel? Do I screw in or out?

[Ron in Indiana]

The screws you are seeing at the front bottom of the carb are for setting the idle, one for each side of the carb. A rule of thumb is to turn them in one at a time until the engine slows then back it off a bit for best idle. Small blocks are known for being cold blooded and it may be your choke. A stumble could be time for a carb overhaul and cleaning. You may also want to check your timing.

[04 Diesel]

The screws you are seeing at the front bottom of the carb are for setting the idle, one for each side of the carb. A rule of thumb is to turn them in one at a time until the engine slows then back it off a bit for best idle. Small blocks are known for being cold blooded and it may be your choke. A stumble could be time for a carb overhaul and cleaning. You may also want to check your timing.

The truck idels great time for a stupid question, how do you adjust the timing? Timing light?,

[Ron in Indiana]

No stupid questions when you're trying to learn something. Yes you'll need a timing light and a specs on what it should be set at. I'll assume you've not done this before? Might be a good time to go see Doug for some help. You may have a stretched timing chain as well if it's a high mileage engine. This will throw your timing off no matter how close you time it. This isn't a big job either. Rock Auto.com is the cheapest place to get parts.

[04 Diesel]

No stupid questions when you're trying to learn something. Yes you'll need a timing light and a specs on what it should be set at. I'll assume you've not done this before? Might be a good time to go see Doug for some help. You may have a stretched timing chain as well if it's a high mileage engine. This will throw your timing off no matter how close you time it. This isn't a big job either. Rock Auto.com is the cheapest place to get parts.

No, I have never done this before, I saw my dad do it when I was a kid. The motor only has 10o,000 miles.

[Ron in Indiana]

ONLY a 100,000 miles? Today's engines are going strong at that mileage but with an older engine like you have it's a likely candidate for a timing set replacement. You'll improve mileage and driveability with a new timing chain and gears. Rock Auto has a complete timing set minus a cover gasket for $16.58. Like I said it's not a big deal to change this out with simple tools. The only thing you will need is a balancer puller which someone could lend you or rent one for a couple bucks. Add a good tune up and you should be good to go. Of course a nice warm place to do this helps big time right now. The biggest thing to remember is to set the timing marks correctly BEFORE you remove the chain and gears. Both timing marks on the gears should face each other when lined up correctly. Do NOT move the crank or cam unless they are off slightly to get the gears on correctly. Some times the chain stretches enough to jump a tooth or more. I don't think this has happened to yours, yet. Not trying to throw the fear into you just stating from experience. Not that it really matters but how old are you? Just trying to get a handle on your experience. Get any pics of the floor job you can send.

[04 Diesel]

ONLY a 100,000 miles? Today's engines are going strong at that mileage but with an older engine like you have it's a likely candidate for a timing set replacement. You'll improve mileage and driveability with a new timing chain and gears. Rock Auto has a complete timing set minus a cover gasket for $16.58. Like I said it's not a big deal to change this out with simple tools. The only thing you will need is a balancer puller which someone could lend you or rent one for a couple bucks. Add a good tune up and you should be good to go. Of course a nice warm place to do this helps big time right now. The biggest thing to remember is to set the timing marks correctly BEFORE you remove the chain and gears. Both timing marks on the gears should face each other when lined up correctly. Do NOT move the crank or cam unless they are off slightly to get the gears on correctly. Some times the chain stretches enough to jump a tooth or more. I don't think this has happened to yours, yet. Not trying to throw the fear into you just stating from experience. Not that it really matters but how old are you? Just trying to get a handle on your experience. Get any pics of the floor job you can send.

Im 44 years old, I have rebuild my 84 Mercedes 190D diesel motor so I have some experience. Just not on a V8. Yes I have pictures but dont know what to do with them.

[Ron in Indiana]

Well if you've done one of those this will be a piece of cake. I've never worked on a Mercedes so you're one up on me. As for the pictures I know enough about computers to be dangerous. If you have them on your computer you can attach them to an email and send them to me. I can post them for others to see what you've got going.

[dougdodgeman]

Be happy to help! Give me a call. I see we have something else in common. I guess the next thing you're going to post is your birthday is in August? Doug

[04 Diesel]

Be happy to help! Give me a call. I see we have something else in common. I guess the next thing you're going to post is your birthday is in August? Doug

What? You have a Mercedes too? No, my birthday is in December

[dougdodgeman]

No merecedes, but I'm pretty sure I've got some Daimler-Benz's, or something like that! Doug

[04 Diesel]

Going to Belleville after work today, I had a new seal put on my windshield

[KRB64]

Those screws only affect idle as I understand it. Make sure the vaccuum lines going in & out are tight and not cracked or better yet just spend a couple bucks on new ones and be done with that for a while.

If it stumbles when you try to accelerate it could be the accelerator pump is worn or mis adjusted. Another fairly easy fix. If you're going to try that you might as well buy the kit and rebuild the whole thing. Just watch your balls and keep them straight as there are two sizes.

Mine is cold blooded too and runs like a cranky old women woken up early until she gets up to operating temperature. And mine only has 109K...

[04 Diesel]

Those screws only affect idle as I understand it. Make sure the vaccuum lines going in & out are tight and not cracked or better yet just spend a couple bucks on new ones and be done with that for a while.

If it stumbles when you try to accelerate it could be the accelerator pump is worn or mis adjusted. Another fairly easy fix. If you're going to try that you might as well buy the kit and rebuild the whole thing. Just watch your balls and keep them straight as there are two sizes.

Mine is cold blooded too and runs like a cranky old women woken up early until she gets up to operating temperature. And mine only has 109K...

Thanks, even when warm when I push on go pedal it hesitates, so I plan on rebuilding the carb, I have never done this before so i hope all goes well. Where should I get the rebuild kit from? I was thinking about Orylies, what you think?

[Ron in Indiana]

These 2 barrel carbs are among the simplest to rebuild. Any parts store will have a kit, Standard and Echlin are two popular kits out there. Directions are included along with the measuring stick needed to set the float. Pick up carb cleaner or brake clean to get the passages clean. Like KRB64 stated pay attention to the check balls locations on is at the bottom of the power valve/accelerator pump well. Might as well get an inline fuel filter while you're at it. Air cleaner filter too?