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Build Thread... 1976 W200

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  • #31
    Paint

    I'm really torn on paint colors... I want to stay close to the original color, there's a vw passat green color and it's $350 per gallon, and there is an aston martin color that is close (I haven't priced it yet...) However when you go to pick paints its really hard to get a good feel for the colors. When you get a feel for the prices you really wonder what you're doing. I know the last time it was painted, we used two gallons, and still had light spots and no left over... So I'm going to say probly around 3 gallons this time because of the interior and the inside of the engine compartment... I'm planning on staying with the DBC grade paint (mid grade) with ppg, and I'll put on a good layer of clear, maybe two depending on $$$. Because I don't want to repaint it again for a while... Especially being that I tore it down to bare frame this go round.

    I want the interior metal to match the body so the dash will be painted the same as the body and then the seat, dash cap, and all associated (currently) green plastic pieces will be painted beige or tan. The truck originally came with captain chairs, but my dad sold them in favor of the bench, however I'd really like to get another set of those, and make a console for between the seats. The seat (bench or buckets) will be re-upholstered in a beige/tan as well.

    As for the engine, I plan on keeping it pretty stock, worked very well for 30+ years, never let me or my dad down, however fuel pumps, and alternators, should be added to the list of regular maintenance items every year!!!

    I'm replacing the carter afb carb with an edlelbrock 1405 (manual choke 4 bbl, 600 cfm). Once gas prices go sky high again I may be better off to swap the motor for a 440 or I've tossed around the idea of converting it to a stroker and fuel injecting it. We'll see it depends a lot on the wallet and gas prices, as I do intend to drive it. I plan to baby it, but it's a truck and a very dependable vehicle. Daily driver duties no, some off roading mainly for camping and hiking, and city duties for moving and hauling things my car can't. I'm also going to toss on a set of hooker headers, and a full 3" stainless dual exhaust, dumping out just before the rear tires, with a set of flowmaster mufflers. (There is no emissions equipment required on this truck, they only check my fuel caps!). Being it's registered in the city makes my life much easier.

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    • #32
      I have heard the horror stories of how much paint costs these days. I am afraid to see what it will cost to paint mine when the time comes. I was thinking Endura, 2 part epoxy. Extremely tuff paint, stays shiny and will bend rather than crack if the body gets bent. Don't ask me how I know this....

      I have been checking into stroker kits and cam combo's and it is a lot of fun to play on the Competition Cams website where you can download their cam selector software. It can help you decide what kind of heads, headers, carb, intake etc. work best for what you are trying to achieve. 440 SOURCE is a relatively inexpensive place for new components that should drop right in and make monster torque.

      Keep up the posts and pics. Those of us with no time and no money to do what you are doing right now are living vicariously through you.....and learning too.

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      • #33
        The paint...

        My dad painted this truck once with Imron... Tough as nails.... unfortunately for me, this meant rust ate through the backside of the body (inside out!) Whatever you paint it with don't use Imron. That stuff was a nightmare to sand....

        I'll check out those website never heard of them...

        Saturday, I stripped down the axles, and put the frame up on jack stands, I separated all the leaf springs (of course the pin holding them together broke...) but they should all be blasted and ready for paint by tuesday wednesday... Don't have any pictures I was in a hurry trying to get this done. What a mess that was... 30+ years of crap in between... Everything was still intact though!

        Anyone know where to get those plastic shims that press into place on the spring in the middle of each of the spring stacks in the front?

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        • #34
          Well,

          The springs are stripped off as well as the axles, I separated all the leaves of each set of springs, (don't have my pics yet) of course the studs holding the leaf assemblies together in the middle sheared, so I need replacements.

          Got a couple of stubborn bushings and the bolts holding the rear springs in are rusted solid. Anybody know where to get oem replacements? Dodge I assume would have them. Probably going to have to heat them with a cutting torch and beat the snot out of them to get them out. I've been spraying them with penetrating oil, but they're pretty solid!

          The simplest jobs become so much more complicated by rust! I'm planning on shooting all the springs individually, in an attempt to prevent further deterioration between the leaves.

          If anybody has any ideas for the shackle bolts or the spring studs... I'm open to suggestions.

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          • #35
            Ummm I'm assuming your not talking about heating the spring eyes themselves. I think a better plan if you indeed have them off the truck is to take them to a large press to apply pressure. A little heat maybe but I wouldn't get happy with the blue tipped wrench.

            As for painting the springs, I just asked my spring shop about that very thing. The owner said to make sure there are no pits in the leaves to hold crud and grit. He also said to use a cheaper paint than say POR15. His reasoning is that as the springs flex the harder paint will crack and peal from the springs easier.

            Any good spring shop should be able to provide/replace your bushings as well as the shackles and bolts with grease zerks.

            One more thing to do before painting is to grind the top ends of the leaves slightly on a bevel to help in saving the paint job.

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            • #36
              my blast guy has been real busy so haven't had much shop time as of late...

              However, the bolts that hold the springs into the shackles in the rear are rusted into their bushings... I was talking about using a torch to heat the bolt slightly (hopefully enough to break it loose with an impact gun) I've been spraying them with penetrating oil for about a week now, so hopefully by saturday they should come free. I'll try to break it loose by hand without heat first and then if I cannot get them loose, heat them up a bit and go after it again...

              The front springs and the upper jeep overloads (rear) aren't too bad. They look nasty but there isn't much pitting at all. However the rear lower springs could be a different story, but I haven't had any success removing them yet. As for the bushings I'm going to replace them, I also have a press available to me in the shop.

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              • #37
                Just watch the temp on that 400. My first PowerWagon was a '78 with a 400, 727, NP 203, W150. I studied a lot on the 400 and it was just a 383 that Ma-Par bored .092" over. I read more than one place that they could get hot easy because of the very thin cylinder walls. Mine did and blew a head gasket in North Carolina 2 days before I was transfered to California. I stored it for 6 monthes till I could get back. Fixed it but she blew again 3 years later. Put a 440 in and drove it till the front axle locked up. That $200 used 440 lasted 5 years. Truck was too rusted under the cab to put money into.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by greg rider View Post
                  Just watch the temp on that 400. My first PowerWagon was a '78 with a 400, 727, NP 203, W150. I studied a lot on the 400 and it was just a 383 that Ma-Par bored .092" over. I read more than one place that they could get hot easy because of the very thin cylinder walls. Mine did and blew a head gasket in North Carolina 2 days before I was transfered to California. I stored it for 6 monthes till I could get back. Fixed it but she blew again 3 years later. Put a 440 in and drove it till the front axle locked up. That $200 used 440 lasted 5 years. Truck was too rusted under the cab to put money into.
                  That's good advice, I'd heard that the cylinder walls were thin. I drove it for 7 or 8 years as a daily driver... only overheated once, due to a blown radiator hose. But that old 400 is a pretty tough beast in my opinion! Never heard of head gaskets going on them, my dad never had a head gasket go, he drove it for 23 years as a daily driver.

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                  • #39
                    Progress made...

                    well sort of...

                    Tore down the front axle (dana 44), and well, of course I should've planned on problems. The bearings are spun on the drivers side hub...

                    The hub is not broken, but the bearings are shot, and the passenger side rotor is trash, oh, and last but not least it needs a yoke seal, and both of the axle half shafts need to be rebuilt, as the u-joints are worn out. The ball joints are in decent shape, but while its apart.... One very healthy degreasing is in order, and reseal, repaint, reassemble....

                    So my bare hubs are sitting in diesel fuel to soften the muck (at least everything I couldn't scrape off).

                    Anybody know where to get the 8 lug hub assemblies other than Napa?? They want $270 + another $55 for the bearing... That's a bit pricey... Considering the last time I bought these it was about $400 for a set of two hubs/bearings/rotors...

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                    • #40
                      Sadly auto parts is one thing that is not going down in price, more so for the older parts. $32 wheel cyl. in Nov 08 now cost $63 Jan 09. We will find more price jacks all over as companys try to make on the REPAIR over BUY NEW. And its happening every where with parts. $20 gasket set now $80 (thats going to hurt).

                      The Hubs are interchangable with several years and some models, just will take some diggin to find the right priced ones.

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                      • #41
                        picture update...

                        been a while since I updated pics...

                        She's a tad dusty... but moving along... slowly. As soon as the temp gets over 60 for more than 20 minutes on a thursday, I am going to spray the frame down one more time.

                        The Dana 44 stripped down... ready for a second blasting.

                        Here's the rear end Dana 60. Needs a bit of cleanup work.

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                        • #42
                          more pics...

                          Cross braces, bell housing, skid pan, spring shackles... all ready for fresh paint.

                          Knuckles for the front end... almost ready for paint... I will be replacing the sheared off steering stop bolt, and the ball joints this weekend.

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                          • #43
                            red x's

                            cant see picts/ only red X's in square's

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                            • #44
                              That's weird, I can see them... I copied them from photobucket... same as the others on the first page.

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                              • #45
                                Has anybody ever tried to remove the chrome trim off of the wing window brackets..... HAH HA HA... That's a friggin joke... I figured out how to do it after I ruined the first of four pieces of trim! Only to find the passenger wing bracket underneath the trim was rusted through and through halfway up the stupid thing....

                                Guess I'm going junkyard hopping again!

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