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  • w-100 restore

    This is my first post on the boards if it is in the wrong area sorry.
    I just purchased my first dodge for 600 as a project to restore.

    was told it is a 1961 town wagon w-100. i need to look up the vin to really check. Im a little out of the loop with finding parts but I am sifting through the threads here getting more familliar with what people here have found helpful.

    anyhow im going to use this thread to document this build so maybe I can get other wagon owners input and help someone else out in the process.



  • #2
    it all seems to be there. no real body damage.


    just noticed i took no pics of the passenger side. it looks the same as the other side i will snap a shot of it and post.

    my buddy thinks the truck is creepier than a windowless van.

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    • #3
      Motor is a 383 from im told a 1968 dodge dude along with it's four speed tranny. kinda still have to take a inventory of what it needs but its not gonna be done tomorrow thats for sure. glass is all there intact. the floor under drivers mat needs replacing i was gonna have a new one cut but saw a site that has the pannels new just need to call them up.
      pulling doors, fenders and hood to get them out of the way this weekend along with gutting interrior of truck. its been sitting on a indian rez for awhile so im most likely getting bit by spiders...bummer

      ick

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      • #4
        You are in the right place. Great find!

        Welcome to the forums. We will be interested to learn more.
        Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


        Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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        • #5
          I'd like to welcome you as well. Townwagons are fun trucks to own. You'll get questions everywhere you go with it. As for identifying your truck it's D100 since W series are 4 wheel drives. I question the replacement floor panels. To my knowledge no one reproduces floors for these trucks. The cab floor is based on the 59-60 Power Giant pickup sharing the same floor panels for the most part. 61-71 Sweptline floors will not work to my knowledge. The rear wheel lips can be repaired with Dodge Utiline fenders, I've done several. A solid looking truck from the pictures. There are sources for rubber products you may need. Mechanical parts are reasonably easy to come by. Go here for help on Townwagons http://townwagon.com/sites/tw/index.htm We can help you along as you get into restoring your truck. Good luck and have fun.

          Comment


          • #6
            Gordon thx for the welcome.

            Ron, thx for the Identification of my truck I was told W100 and the W was for wagon... lol it made sense to me.

            As for the link provided I was on there and saw the sheetmetal compadibility page and it raised some questions about the floor reproduction piece I found. Great link thanks prolly saved me a few bucks and frustration. I'm off to get a few spider bombs so I can get any creepy crawlies out of mywagon.

            There is wood panneling interrior I need to pull I don't think it is what came in the vehicle from factory and the floor of the cargo area has plywood down I need to tear that out to really get a good look at my battle. The truck is from washington the small spot rusted on the floor is on drivers side floor where drivers heeld would rest so I imagine its rusted due to floormat issues. Does anyone have photos or link of what these interriors looked like stock from factory?

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            • #7
              Glad to be of service. The interiors were a cardboard like material and it's very rare that you'll find an original. I made my own from upholstery backer board. There are ribs that run side to side that hold up the headliner. The plywood on the floor may be original if it's one piece. It's 50" wide and 77" long. This makes replacing it with new a task since modern plywood is 48" wide. There are different ways to do the floor. I made mine from 4x8 sheet that I cut lengthwise and added a 1x2 in the center to rejoin the pieces. The original floor would have plates routed in the plywood to fasten the rear seat/seats depending on the seat arrangement. Townwagons could be either 6 or 8 passenger depending on the rear seating. Does yours have rear seats? The shorter middle seat is very hard to come by. My TW didn't have any so I used a seat from a Power Giant truck.
              I would guess that what you found for the front floor is a 61-71 pick up floor and it won't work. I've done several front cab mount and floor repairs making my own patch panels. The lip around the step well is what held the water in so it wouldn't drain. The lip is there to hold the floor mat from curing up. There is one place to get a reproduction rubber mat. When you get to that point let me know and I'll give you the address.
              I can't help you on the spiders but from experience get out the camera and take plenty of pictures BEFORE doing any tear down. It's a great reference for later on and to look back at where it was once you have it done. Just a bit of info on a couple of things. The rear door reflectors were an option and NAPA has new ones. The turn signals on your truck can be removed if you rewire the parking and taillights. A service manual has both wiring diagrams. I converted mine because I would knock mine off when offroading and I think they're ugly but to each his own. Are you planning an original resto or something else? Either way it's your truck do as you like. Here's a picture of my 64 on the teeter board at one Iowa Power Wagon rally.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Thanks for the great info.

                The rear cargo area is all one piece wood floor. I have a buddy that builds. Cabinets. Two sheets tied and seamed with dogbones should make it look like one piece when I get that far. The thick cardboard is what is in the interrior well half of it is there lol

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                • #9
                  Unfortunately I have none of the original seats just a standard bench. I was thinking moving that back as a rear seat and seeing if i can find a fold up style bench seat like the middle row in suburbans to use in the front so there is easier access for passengers to get in the back seat.

                  Yeah im ditching the lights on the side. how hideous they are.

                  I am going to restore to a stock look but get a little more modern where it needs.

                  it looks like there are 2 master cylinders at the firewall. anyone know was the front and rear brakes on seperate systems or is one for the clutch?

                  im still waiting on a chilton or comperable to answer some of the questions i have.

                  thx -ick

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Looking at the firewall, the master cylinder on the right is the clutch and the left is for the brakes. It's only a single master cylinder system so the front and rear brakes are tied together. There have been those who have replaced the single with a dual set up but I have not. Chilton's is so so but you really need a factory service manual. Ebay has them all the time just do a search. This will give you the exact wiring diagram and so much more than the generic books offer. The FSM (factory service manual) won't have a 383 in it but you can get that elsewhere. I don't know your mechanical skill level so bear with me. Is this your first time at a project of this type? Don't be afraid to ask questions. I have restored several trucks including 3 TW's and as I said before I can help you through this project. I do my own bodywork also.

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                    • #11
                      Welcome to the site. Looks like a real clean
                      Town Wagon. Are all the Free Puppies spoken
                      for yet? :)
                      John

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Hobcobble View Post
                        Are all the Free Puppies spoken
                        for yet? :)
                        John
                        Thx for the welcome john.
                        unfortunately all puppies are spoken for got rid of them at the park yesterday, however i do need help lifting a couch into the back of my wagon... what are you like a size seven. lol

                        Tonight I will get cracken on the wagon. pulling the doors, fenders, hood and grill to clear up some room to move around. buddy kevin is coming out to stay for the weekend so slave labor time. ill take lots of photos to try and document as best i can.

                        oh and my mechanical skill level is about a 6-7 of ten. i turn wrenches well, wiring and body work drive me crazy and i have no patience for it.

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                        • #13
                          oh and my mechanical skill level is about a 6-7 of ten. i turn wrenches well, wiring and body work drive me crazy and i have no patience for it.[/QUOTE]

                          I'm with you on electrical wiring. I live for bodywork. I put on my headset earmuffs and turn on the tunes so I can get into my zone. The world goes away when I do that. It's all in what a person is comfortable with.

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                          • #14
                            Finally got to yank some stuff and get a good look. The tranny floor cover panel that came with the truck is not the right one its close. Motor looks goodjust needs to be cleaned up. Need starter , exhaust system, radiator.

                            New eidlebrock intake manifold came with the wagon, and a darn new holly carb. Was excited to see the wood backing for the door pannels were in good shape. The floor in the rear is original and all the brackets for original seats were there.


                            My only worries are locating a wiring harness.

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                            • #15
                              Was there a ribbed rubber mat on the rear floor? Just curious. One Townie owner I know used this company for his wiring http://ezwiring.com/ It's a universal wiring harness that's half the price of Painless or some others. Unless you have a harness made specifically for the truck this may be your best option. All the circuits run through the headlight switch or the ignition switch with no fuses. This is where a FSM comes in handy. If you haven't already taken off the inner rear panels you will find behind them bare metal. The factory didn't prime let along paint the inside of the body below the windows. What is off with the tranny cover, the hole for the shifter? If it's any good at all keep it they are hard to find in good shape.

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